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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2002 Seville SLS from a dealer a couple months ago. 103098 miles. Now like 107300. This morning it was bit cooler and my windows were all fogged so I turned on the heat. 8 minutes or so later (while I'm on my phone) it stalls. Last night I disconnected the accelerometer which is the sensor under the back seat. Because it's been doing that thing where under normal driving the stability system kicks on and starts braking. I read somewhere to just disconnect it and the stability system will be disabled. But that is really not a fix to whatever the issue is.

As far as stalling/semi-rough idle my plan is to clean the EGR valve, throttle body, and any other intake components I think I can. And I say semi rough because it isn't noticable most the time but seems to be degrading over time. But does anyone know what it could be. Some say electrical, and I have noticed that when I turn on the headlights and the dash dims, it will sometimes brighten after I start driving. Some say fuel delivery, and I have also noticed that as I get lower on the tank the less robust the car seems.
Also when I bought it had the shimmy, I replaced the front hubs, outer tie rod ends(totally busted), sway bar and links, as well as put on EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, and Hawk performance ceramic pads. (Yes it brakes well..) And after a trip to the alignment shop it drove perfect, 80 down the highway no hands no worries. Whereas before I would have gone into the wall faster than you can say "I wish it was RWD though". I have the updated gm intermediate steering shaft but I decided I'd just have my mechanic put it in, plan to get that done on fall break here in a week. Yes it's doing the clunking noise under low to moderate acceleration and low speed turns.

Just got home from a 30 minute interstate commute, no shimmy still. But this morning I did notice a little which I'm guessing is because I may or may not have hit a square curb that just out into an intersection a few days ago. Oops.
But the alignment shop said I could bring it back for another alignment free since the sway bar links were still loose. Oops. Have some temp. ones on from napa that didn't fit and had to cut to get on.

But that's where my car stands atm. It chugs oil, and I just switched it to Castrol GTX conventional 10w-30 from pennzoil synthetic. Heard conventional burns less. Gonna jump over to 5w next change for fall/winter. I've been trying to do the WOT exercise but it's been hard for me to do so without having the 12 on my tail after 2 runs, ruining the whole point of it. Any insight to the stability sys and idling or really just in general would help, I know this is a long post but I figured best to put everything out there so you all have better context....

P.S. how's the sls on snow? coming from a Ford ranger things will be a little different :p

P.P.S. If you have shimmy then get under your car and look around some, also Jack it up and try to wiggle the wheels by putting your hands on opposite sides of the wheel. If it moves you could probably use new hubs.
 

· Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
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80,426 Posts
Welcome to CF !!

Nothing wrong with a good 5W-30 synthetic all year for your roller cammed 275 hp Northstar. Mine has run Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum since new and burns or leaks not a drop in 6,000 miles.

Your Seville Luxury Sedan (SLS) has its own built-in diagnostic code scanner/memory, accessed through the DIC control switches below. Use the section by JimD in the below link. Pull any stored codes and use the link in the procedure to define and post your found codes here.

Codes read out as a module/system, a letter (P,B,C,U), four digits, a letter (C or H).



Vehicle Car Mid-size car Executive car Family car
 

· Registered
02 Seville, 04 SRX (sold), 96 Eldorado (sold), 99 DeVille (sold)
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1,414 Posts
The stall when cold is usually the idle air control valve. Buy he OEM GM one, nothing cheap. But also, wait until you check the codes before throwing parts at it. But its usually the IAC.
 

· Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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22,639 Posts
regarding the SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM message -

STEP #1 - ALWAYS - check for codes -

you probably have a C1288 code - and it is probably marked as History -

if YES - the STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR is failing -
just a momentary glitch is all it takes to set the code and create the error message -

it is a $100 part - that REQUIRES the steering column to be removed to replace it -
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Regarding oil, I just had to put another 1.5 quarts in, I believe it's been less than 900 miles. But I have noticed that I am leaving a few drops of oil in the driveway. I suspect I will be needing the head studs... And basscatt, IAC is also what I was thinking it could be. Just ran the codes:

ABS C1233 H this one is one I didn't have a couple weeks ago..
C1282 H
C1283 H
C1284 H
C1285 H
DDM B3833 H as well as this one...
U1715 H
IPC U1016 H
IRC U1016 H
MSM B1860 H
U1000 H
RIM B1009 H and finally this one...
TTM U1016 H
 

· Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
22,639 Posts
Regarding oil, I just had to put another 1.5 quarts in, I believe it's been less than 900 miles. But I have noticed that I am leaving a few drops of oil in the driveway. I suspect I will be needing the head studs... And basscatt, IAC is also what I was thinking it could be. Just ran the codes:

ABS C1233 H this one is one I didn't have a couple weeks ago..
C1282 H
C1283 H
C1284 H
C1285 H
DDM B3833 H as well as this one...
U1715 H
IPC U1016 H
IRC U1016 H
MSM B1860 H
U1000 H
RIM B1009 H and finally this one...
TTM U1016 H
================================

codes are meaningless without their DEFINITIONS -
and no one has them all memorized -

go here for the best list of Cadillac code definitions -

also include whether the codes are C-Current or H-History -
 

· Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
Joined
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80,426 Posts
What does a few drops of oil have to do with head studs. Nothing......... The wheel speed sensor fault may have been due to an intermittent sensor connection at the wheel hub.

Oil consumption - don't over fill it - GM/Cadillac stated correct oil level is halfway up the hashmark. Run a few WOT procedures.

Fill it to the top of the hashmark and the engine will happily leak and burn off the excess 2/3 quart in a hurry. 7.5 quarts with filter - not 8.

<==== ADD XXXXXXXXXX <--- OPERATING RANGE =======oo============O

The U codes were caused by either low battery voltage or a battery disconnect.

H suffix codes are in History and the fault has not been detected for at east the last 3 start-run-drive events. C suffix means the fault is here and now.

Did you read - and understand - Post #2 ?????
 
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