[RedPeppers]

I used this board in the past and found it to be extremely helpful. I keep having an intermittent problem with the car not starting at various random times. The dealership can’t find anything wrong, but every so often when I turn off the engine and sit in the car for awhile, when I go to leave and start the car up again it will not turn over.

It’s not the battery, as everything else still has power. If I take the key out and wait a few minutes it usually starts right up. It happens most often when I remain seated in the car and stop for a short period of time. Sometimes when I stop to get gas, or stop to eat something quick.

I read my owners manual and thought it might be a security feature having to do with the keys or key fob, but the dealership says no. Any ideas of what could be causing this?

 

[Ranger]

when I go to leave and start the car up again it will not turn over.

I hate that term because it means different things to different people, so lets clarify that. Do you mean it does not crank or does not start?

 

[basscatt]

intermittent problems are always tough
because you can only run accurate tests WHEN the problem is occurring -

start by checking for DTC's - Diagnostic Trouble Codes -
if you don't know how - go here -
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...ldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

post any codes you have -
ALONG WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS -

include whether they are C-Current or H-History -

for code definitions - go here -
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html
-----------------------
when I go to leave and start the car up again it will not turn over.
assuming this means the engine does not crank -

your eldo still uses the VATS resistor chip in the key -
there are several issues that come to mine -

the contacts on the key could be dirty -
this could cause a change in the measured resistance or simply no contact at all -
use a pencil eraser and clean the contacts on the key -
try a new/different key -
you can buy a new - uncut key on ebay for $12 with free shipping -
any hardware store will cut the key for a couple bucks -
NOTE - you'll have to measure the resistance of the chip to get the correct blank -
there are 15 possibilities -

the contacts within the key reader in the ignition lock could be dirty -
get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and spray/flush the inside of the lock cylinder -
let it sit for several minutes - and spray it again -
let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes - then give the lock cylinder a couple quick shots of WD40 -

a solution to BOTH possibilities above would be to bypass the VATS system altogether -
by tapping into the system and installing the proper size resistor -

-------------------

another possibility is a faulty starter solenoid -
or maybe just a loose connection at the starter -
unfortunately - the starter is under the intake plenum and simply out of reach -

could also be a failing starter relay -

yet another possibility is a faulty NSS - Neutral Safety Switch -
with the shifter in PARK -
keep your foot on the brake - hold the key in the START position - and wiggle the shift handle -

if that doesn't work - shift into NEUTRAL -
keep your foot on the brake - hold the key in the START position - and wiggle the shift handle -

 

[Ranger]

Another possibility (assuming that you mean cranks, but does not start) is a bad FPR. A FPR with an internal leak will cause hard hot starts, but usually start just fine when cold.

Also check your fuel pressure.

 

[RedPeppers]

Thanks Ranger. You gave me a lot of great info. I will try some of your solutions and see how she does. Thanks so much!!!

 

[RedPeppers]

Thank you BassCatt and Ranger. When I say “does not start” I am referring to the engine not even turning over or making a sound. That is why I believe it has more to do with the key.

It starts fine 99% of the time, then every so often when I go to leave somewhere (without having exited the car) it will not “engage”, so to speak.

I am going to try cleaning the key and ignition out as you suggested as I truly believe that’s where the problem is. Hopefully that will do the trick. Also, now that you mention it, I will also try wiggling the shifter, as it could be as simple as the shifter not clicking all the way into Park.

You guys are so knowledgeable and informative. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my post. I am not mechanically inclined, and running to the dealership for these annoying little problems is certainly not convenient or cost effective. Thanks again!

 

[RedPeppers]

BassCatt,
I am a complete novice, so I need a lot of direction. When you say clean the Lock Cylinder with electrical contact cleaner, does that mean I just spray it right into the ignition where I insert the key?

The ignition has never been cleaned and there have been a lot of smokers in the car, so I am thinking this could be the cause of my problem.
Please advise. Thanks so much BassCatt. You are so knowledgeable!!!

 

[Harry Yarnell]

Spray the cleaner into the lock cylinder and use the key as a toothbrush.
You could also try placing the shifter in N to see if it'll crank.

 

[basscatt]

BassCatt,
I am a complete novice, so I need a lot of direction. When you say clean the Lock Cylinder with electrical contact cleaner, does that mean I just spray it right into the ignition where I insert the key?

The ignition has never been cleaned and there have been a lot of smokers in the car, so I am thinking this could be the cause of my problem.
Please advise. Thanks so much BassCatt. You are so knowledgeable!!!

==========================
I am a complete novice, so I need a lot of direction.
no problem -

there are 2 contacts in the lock cylinder - where you put the key -
the 2 contacts on the key must make a good connection with the contacts in the lock cylinder -

the electrical contact cleaner spray should have a little straw with it -
look at the key - note where the resistor contacts are -
note how far the key gets inserted into the lock cylinder -
now estimate where the contacts are within the lock cylinder - hint - not too far in -

next - the electric contact cleaner spray is a strong solvent that leaves no residue -
spray around the area -
you don't need to flood the area or empty the whole can - several 2 or 3 second shots should do the job -

while you're in there - you can also clean/flush the lock tumblers -
pull the straw all the way out -
aim the straw at the key hole -
hold the spray button down while SLOWLY inserting the straw all the way in - then back out -
this should take about 3 seconds going in and 3 seconds coming out -

let everything sit for 5 minutes -
this should be long enough for the cleaning fluid to evaporate/dry -

last -
the lock tumblers NEED a little - light - lube -
a couple quick shots of WD40 will do the trick nicely -
then insert and remove the key several times to disperse the lube -

NOTE - have a couple paper towels handy during this process -

 

[RedPeppers]

Thanks so much. Got it. Really appreciate your responses. I will give it a try. Thanks again.