[peteypablo1]

It is the rear driver side. When you press the switch it just clicks, even from the master switch. So I tested the motor and regulator and they worked. I used the switch from the passenger side and it still just clicked. I heard the clicking coming from the door module, so I replaced it with the passenger side and still just click.
If it is not the motor, regulator, switch, or module --- what can it be?

 

[Swine]

It is the rear driver side. When you press the switch it just clicks, even from the master switch. So I tested the motor and regulator and they worked. I used the switch from the passenger side and it still just clicked. I heard the clicking coming from the door module, so I replaced it with the passenger side and still just click.
If it is not the motor, regulator, switch, or module --- what can it be?

I'm not a mechanic- but it sounds as though your process of elimination has been quite thorough... parhaps all the components are fine, and the track could be the problem... is it getting stuck?

 

[peteypablo1]

I'm not a mechanic- but it sounds as though your process of elimination has been quite thorough... parhaps all the components are fine, and the track could be the problem... is it getting stuck?

No, it is not moving at all. The clicking noise is coming from the module, could there be a seperate fuse for it?

 

[ewill3rd]

So I tested the motor and regulator and they worked.

I am curious as to how you did that?
Also if you have eliminated all the components that leaves the wiring.
I'd say at this point it might be worth a few bucks to get a test light and see if the module is actually applying power and ground to the motor.
If you can jumper the motor and it will move then it's missing something.
You have to verify the integrity of the wiring before you can proceed.

 

[peteypablo1]

I am curious as to how you did that?

I took a good battery and hooked up jumper cables to it. Then I inserted a nail on each of the clamps (+ and -) and then touched them to the prongs on the motor where the harness connects. Careful not to touch the nails together. If you want the window to go up, just touch the nails to the opposite prongs that you did the firts time.

 

[ruffyrder]

Bringing an old topic to the top.....I am in the same situation. Motor and regulator test good and run when hooked direct to battery. When hooked though module, the motor will not run, the module just clicks.

Hooked a voltage tester to the connection at the motor and I am getting 7.74 volts when the switch is pressed. Same at the module connection.

2002 DTS. Problem started when I got out of work and the left rear window was down about 3 inches. I got in the car and tried to roll it up thinking I had left it that way on accident. Got a loud pop and the window dropped down. So, I took the door apart and the tack had stuck and broke the little plastic tab that runs it up and down. Guess this is normal from what I have read, so I have a new motor and regulator coming off of Ebay.

Any thoughts? I hate to wait for the motor and regulator to get here, only to find out that the module is the real problem, them wait another 3 days to get one of those. I am debating taking the module out of one of the other doors and trying that.......thoughts?

 

[Terry Lange]

I'm surprised that no one has jumped in on this yet. Unfortunately, this is a common problem with 2000 and newer Cadillac DeVilles. It has been covered extensively on this and other boards before. If you own one of these cars long enough, it is not a matter of if, but when you will encounter this problem. Eventually, you may have to replace all 4. I have had 2 of them go already on my 2001 DTS. I'm not really clear on the mechanics of it, but it has to do with the failure (breakage) of the white plastic tabs that hold the components together inside the door. Most who have experienced the failure hear a loud crack when they are raising or lowering the window, and then it stays in either the raised or lowered position. The more mechanically inclined on here have managed successful repairs on their own, after struggling with getting the door panel off. Many others pay the Cadillac dealership $500.00 to $600.00 for the repair, about half of it being parts. If you are adventurous, there is a company on e-bay that sells rebuilt units on an exchange basis for I believe around $160.00 or $180.00. I, unfortunately had to pay the dealership prices, as I was leaving on a trip the next day and didn't want to drive an 800 mile round trip with the drivers window down. I guess you could have an electrical malfunction, but if I were a betting man, I would guess it is a case of Cadillac's "dropped window syndrome."

Terry

 

[ewill3rd]

There do seem to be more mechanical failures of the cable regulator setup than there are of the motor.

You can have switch problems or module problems also on these but mostly we see breaking parts on the regulator.
I don't think GM offers the motor separate from the regulator, the way it's assembled doesn't allow for taking it apart and putting it back together because it's all spool wound and springloaded.

 

[rneal48]

Just bought my 2001 DTS in late May 2006 with 63,000 miles. My wife was driving it in early July, when she let the left rear window down she heard a crack and it would not go back up. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and I was told I needed to replace the whole unit at the tune of $413.00 for unit and $100.00 in labor. He suggested not replacing the unit and was able to bolt the window in the up position, disconnected the motor and away I went for $80.00. I might get it fixed next year and maybe the unit price will go down.........Rog

 

[lowscola]

Just bought my 2001 DTS in late May 2006 with 63,000 miles. My wife was driving it in early July, when she let the left rear window down she heard a crack and it would not go back up. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and I was told I needed to replace the whole unit at the tune of $413.00 for unit and $100.00 in labor. He suggested not replacing the unit and was able to bolt the window in the up position, disconnected the motor and away I went for $80.00. I might get it fixed next year and maybe the unit price will go down.........Rog

I created a howto for this at http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

FYI: The post is http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/70894-deville-window-regulator-motor-repair-howto.html#post656869

 

[Crucks]

I had this happen to me yesterday afternoon on my 02 Deville. Thanks lowscola for posting the link to the how to pdf. When I got the door apart and looked inside it looks like my cable is off of the pulley wheel near the top of the door. Unfortuanaly I was unable to get the glass out to do any further work on it. I was able to put and screw in and it is holding the glass in the up position for now. I was wondering if this is what everone else is seeing or it the prelude to everyone elses problem? Any suggestion would be appreciated.

 

[GMC jack]

Try wiggling the door jamb harness while operating the switch, this is A common point of failure.The harness can be easily repaired with solder and heat shrink tubing.

 

[Submariner409]

GMC jack, This thread, like the other one close by with your identical post, has been dead for 7.6 years - only one respondent has been active in CF since then, ewill3rd, and he's a certified Cadillac Technician.

Again - Please take the time to update your profile.

You might want to reset your thread display option to "most recent first" - that keeps you from replying to old, dead threads unless you do an active search for that sort of info.

 

[Ranger]

And check the post dates before replying.