I have been trying to help a guy get his Seville started. When the key is turned to the start position it just clicks a few relays under the back seat. It doesn't ever try to turn over. I pulled the cover off the starter relay and can start it by pushing the relay manually but the engine dies after about 2 seconds. Any ideas what to look for?
2000 Seville SLS won't start
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You may have a bad connection at the starter motor solenoid, which is under the intake manifold. No fun.
Open the fuel filler door, remove the cap, and listen when the key is turned ON. Fuel pump run for a few seconds ?? If not, either wiring, fuse, or fuel pump, in the tank, under the access cover under the rug in front of the spare tire.
Has anything been done to the radio or amp wiring ?? The car may be in theft prevent, and the radio and head unit are part of that system........
Open the fuel filler door, remove the cap, and listen when the key is turned ON. Fuel pump run for a few seconds ?? If not, either wiring, fuse, or fuel pump, in the tank, under the access cover under the rug in front of the spare tire.
Has anything been done to the radio or amp wiring ?? The car may be in theft prevent, and the radio and head unit are part of that system........
Is the starter solenoid under the intake manifold before or after the relay in the fuse panel under the hood? The connections from there to the starter appear to be good since it turns over when the contacts are manually pushed. The fuel pump is running but I don't know how to tell if there is fuel pressure. I ever jumpered out the fuel pump relay so the pump would keep running continuous and the engine still dies just the same. It will keep re-starting and run the same length of time every time.
The car sat all winter with a dead battery.
The car sat all winter with a dead battery.
Displaying the trouble codes might be worth the effort. Here's how
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/172511-how-pull-codes-98-04-sevilles.html
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/172511-how-pull-codes-98-04-sevilles.html
I hadn't done anything with it for a while. It is at a repair (not a dealer) and he says it is the passkey system and will have to be towed to a dealer and needs a new key and have it reprogrammed, Does this sound right?
Before it went to the shop, I pulled the cover off the starter relay and could get it to start by manually pushing the relay but it would only run for 2 or 3 seconds. It would run just as long if the engine was revved up. Any ideas to try before taking it to the dealer?
Before it went to the shop, I pulled the cover off the starter relay and could get it to start by manually pushing the relay but it would only run for 2 or 3 seconds. It would run just as long if the engine was revved up. Any ideas to try before taking it to the dealer?
I have a 2000 Seville SLS as well. My car did start before, now you put the key in and a pretty loud clicking sound for about 3 or 4 seconds both from the engine compartment and the inside of the car. It is a rapid clik, clik, clik. My friend mechanic thinks it's the starter. We switched relays at panel under the hood with no effect. The last time the car ran (a couple of days ago) I was running it on idle to see if the radiator fans were coming on. I forgot it was running and the fans did not come on and the temp gauge went all the way up. I shut it down and let it rest until the next day. Some of the coolant steamed out but that is about it. He put a scanner on the car and got just about every error code possible. About 25+. He cleared the codes and the same situation. All this happened after the car overheated. The only code remaining is "cam shaft positioner sensor". Would that keep the starter from engaging? Prior to all this the issues were sometimes the car would not start because the little line was not lit under the PRND display and the cooling fans sometimes would not come on. I know the battery is OK, it is new and we borrowed another from the autoparts store with the same results. I do get messages on the display regarding the security system needs serviced. I will try a different key later today. Don't think that is it though. Thank you in advance and I look forward to any help I can get. Mike
Since the battery is new the tech and I are going to first check all the wiring especially the cable(s) to the starter itself. We are going to loosen and retighten all the grounds as well. The next step is to try another new battery. If that doesn't work then I guess we should replace the starter. Do you guys think this is a good plan? Mike
New off-the-shelf batteries can be faulty. Have the battery load tested to remove the battery condition from the list of possibilities.
You have a few other simple steps to take before you remove the intake manifold to check the cable to the starter.
That would be a good step. Trying another key might also be informative.
Not yet.
Think I found the problem. After installing a new battery and clearing all the codes the car still was acting like it was posessed. Took a look at the ECM located in front of the air filter and found the compartment for the ECM with about 3 inches of water. Pulled the ECM, took it apart and water poured out of it. Circuit board was moldy and slimey. Ordered a new ECM. I think I am on the right path. Just can't figure out where all the water came from? Air filter soaked as well. Mike
Lots of driving in the rain (or high pressure car washes), top PCM box seal loose/missing and the drain holes in the bottom of the lower airbox are plugged.
Remove the entire air box and ducting and check. There should be a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the lower airbox/u-duct.
Remove the entire air box and ducting and check. There should be a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the lower airbox/u-duct.
ECM has to be programmed with your VIN, or it won't even try to start the car. You need access to a Tech II connected to GM's service system to do it, can't be done in your driveway or garage. Also you will have to relearn your key, and have a crankshaft position relearn done.
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