The steel lines are bolted to back of the engine, you may have to remove the bolt (s) to allow movement... So extra fun. Make sure you use silicone hose(green) as it may melt being so close to egr heat.
And yes they can be a real pain to do.

 

I still have nightmares of attempting this back in the summer while replacing the 02 sensor and wake up in sweats lol

 

Thank you rodnok01. Yeah I did loosen two bolts behind the engine (10mm wrench) but did NOT actually remove them. I guess I thought they would swing away enough if loosened.

Any comments on the quick connection? After all I've been through trying to keep this wonderful car in shape I'm replacing anything that has to do with the cooling system these days especially if it's reasonable. Heck at this point, I'm even considering a new radiator reasonable!

Seriously though, I LOVE this engine. It provides all the power and performance I need plus some and even though I've had a little more maintenance than others, I consider myself lucky that some leaking coolant is my only headache. The support in this forum is staggering when I think of the thousands of dollars I saved from those who have helped me in the past 8 years.

 

The hot water quick connect (#15) can be found on the HELP! racks at parts stores - the internal seal clip WILL fall apart and leak if you remove it at this age. I hate to say this, but the easiest route would be to spend the 8 hours to completely remove the water crossover and replace all those seals and thermostat and tensioner parts and plenum (#10), too.

https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/hot-coolant-outlet-quick-connect-fitting.1104833/

 

Ugh...

Thank you Submariner409. For the sake of buying a little more time, do you think I have a chance just replacing the bad hose until I can plan an attack of taking care of all that you mentioned? The car currently has 118k miles on it now.

 

A couple of those short green hoses are silicone items - heat resistant.

MAYBE original parts or illustrations in www.gmpartsgiant.com or www.gmpartsdirect.com

You shoud be able to replace the bad hose. If it uses spring clamps there are remote-acting tools for that -

Google Search

 

Thank you.

Yes, those pliers look like what I discovered earlier this morning too that I will pickup after work today. Just hope the end mechanism will clear.

Question... I replaced some of the original hose clamps because coolant was passing through them with the worm gear type only because they allowed me to tighten more to stop the leak. The originals are wider and considering I since replaced said hoses, is there any advantage to going back with the original type?

 

Ugh, heater hoses....dreaded job.
When loosening the rear bolts (10mm) i believe. Get in their with some long needle nose pliers and open up the bracket said bolts hold em down to. They're kind of a funky shape. And just removing the bolts wont allow the pipes to just slide out, youre gonna have to pry the brackets open a bit before lifting the pipes out, trust me.

 

The hose in #15 of Sub's diagram is a pain in the ass, id replace the clamp with a screw one, and make sure that you leave the screw head facing you, so in the future you can easily remove that whore. Use a long flat head and a set of long angled needle nose pliers to hold it while loosening the screw. Replace tht section of hose with the one of the exact length, too long and the pipe won't seat. Too short and the pipe wont mate up to it.

 

Thanks everyone

Yeah...from the painful sounds of all this I left the best for last.

 

Here to compliment Sub's post, this is from my 97 FSM, but its the same for 2000

 

I bought pliers for removing the stubborn hose clamp but couldn't get them to fit. But at least was able to free the steel lines from the two clamps to get a little better access. Going to buy some long needle nose players tomorrow....maybe even some hotdog tongs just in case the long nose plyers won't work.

 

Finally got the last clamp off the other day. Tried to put the two M6 bolts back on steel line clamps between the firewall and the head but I don't have the room for my fingers to start it so will try again later. In the meantime I replaced all hoses, topped off with coolant and so far no leaks. 🤞

 

I used an open end wrench and lots of patience to put those fckrs back in.

 

Tell me about it...I tried and tried over and over using a thin piece of cardboard with an "X" cut into it for the bolt to help hold it but can't get both flat metal surfaces to align as they are no longer aligned axially after I spread them apart. If I still worked in a machine shop I'd turn an alignment pin in a lathe that would fit both the clearance hole side and tap drill side while using a tiny clamp to hold in place for the bolt.

 

Woke up this morning with coolant puddles on the floor. Taking it to a radiator shop today. Hoping they can fix enough for me to use as partial trade towards a 2019 XTS.

 

After reviewing the diagrams shared in this post, it would only make sense to zero in on the crossover as was brought up by Submariner to replace gaskets, o-rings and other scary features. My inexperience with this engine does not help as I went over everything I could think of to find leaks. Oh well, it's parked at a radiator shop and I should hear something back this morning. I'm guessing this repair will be flirting at the $1000 mark if it is leaking at the crossover. Not sure if my inexperience is worth the risk of something going sideways so am leaning on letting the shop fix it...or maybe a clamp just needs a little more squeeze. 😉

 

Radiator side tank could be suspect. That'd be cheaper and easier. The water crossover is an unholy whore of a devil's wife to remove, the bolts are reversed thread, or so it seems. I removed mine at one point and never again.

 

That would be great!!

The picture shows where the coolant fell from underneath. It was wiped clean the night before and the picture was taken facing from the front towards the rear where parked. The furthest puddle is about at the firewall and between the engines center and power steering booster. It was snowing heavily the night before I ran it and the thinned coolant at the lower/right of the photo is evidently mixed with the melted snow.

 

Pressure test would pin point the leak

 

Radiator shop has replaced several hose clamps I reused that were not able to hold. (...oops..) Long story short: Leaking at crossover at firewall side head connection. They went on to say that if they replaced all gaskets o-rings etc to the crossover, that history has shown that more often than not that the head gasket would be the next leak path to expect. Maybe. Maybe not.

I have decided that I want to keep this car and fix it myself. I will buy something else to get me to work and back (A low milage 2019 XTS or 2019 Chevrolet Impala Premium) and restore my Eldorado and make it a toy. It's just too cool and I kept It's condition reasonably sound with exception to a coolant leak issue.Big deal right? I love this car and it's staying here.

Thanks to all who helped me keep it healthy.

 

Crossover is 6 hr job easy. Ratcheting flex head 13 mm is required or life is hell. Use rubber bands hold gaskets and bolts in place.
I have a seep on my 98 again and it got half a bottle of stop leak 2 years ago keeps it a very minimal leak.
I have the parts to change them again just don't want to do it.

 

Thanks..So which bolts did you need the flex head and 13mm on? Is there a particular troublesome area that stands out? I'm starting to lay out my battle plan and very interested to learn what to expect. I looked up Rockauto for a crossover gasket kit but nit sure which is right considering I want to replace what's coming up with the head gaskets. Or if I can even get the back head out without loosening the cradle or rolling the engine forward as I did with another GM car I worked on 20 years ago.

 

Yes, you must roll/lower the cradle to get the back head off - and to use a right angle drill to do the block bolt holes. No one-piece studs possible with the engine in the car. (You CAN use inserts and ARP studs, but that's less elegant than one-piece specially made studs.)

cadillac northstar head studs and inserts images - Google Search

If you are going to either insert or stud the cylinder block head bolt holes I would recommend that you remove the entire powertrain - cradle and all - onto the floor. You will save many busted knuckles, possible misaligned machine (drilling) work and - time.

Pre-2000 N* on the floor.

 

I wouldn't do HG unless it failed an exhaust gas test to start with.
Th e crossove rgaskets are not with regular cooling stuff on rock buried in a different spot.
13mm flex ratchet needed on alot of the bolts. Without it'll make life hell especially if had older bigger fingers.
Parts with coolant for crossover is 100 or so. Labor kills on this.

 

I agree, get the crossover done, then flush the system out, refill with fresh 50/50 Dex, drive it awhile and enjoy the car. Then get the combustion test done to check for a breach in the HG.

 

Thanks. The head gasket replace was recommended by the radiator shop from past cars that ended up having to have the head gasket replaced following the crossover fix. Was about 4 out of 5.

 

They're full of it... One is a leak one is an overheat issue.
Super rare they leak coolant into oil also, burn some yes. When HG goes out it'll become obvious quickly.
Also you're talking few hour and 100 bucks vs a weekend at least and 1k easy in parts.
Mine is leaking oil but will not get HG done as not an issue and I'll have the engine out and all tools needed to do everything on hand.