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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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The engine is not overheating until it hits 265 degrees. It then goes into Camel Mode. The Northstar was designed to run for 50 miles with NO coolant.

Anywhere near the 12 o'clock tick is normal. The gauge is heavily damped from 188 to 215 degrees - God forbid that a gauge actually moved in response to engine operating conditions - the dealers would be overwhelmed with erroneous "The gauge moved - something's wrong !!!" warranty claims.

In heavy traffic or even at speeds less than 12 mph - with no A/C compressor function set - it's normal for the gauge to move to the 224 mark, fans go to SLOW, temp drops to 213, fans stop, the cycle repeats. Normal.

With any A/C compressor function (DEFROST, too) set the fans run in SLOW all the time so the gauge should stay somewhere close to the 12 o'clock tick - winter, summer, Sahara, Alaska. Fans don't normally run at over 30 mph - not needed.

Have you studied the cooling system stickies in the Engines; Northstar forum ? Stickies are there for a reason - timeless info.

FWIW, we're in the Airport Holiday Inn in Charleston, SC for a sub crew reunion - after a 10 hour 560 mile drive from MD yesterday. At 10 or 85 mph the gauge needle stayed within a needles'width of 12 o'clock the entire trip. Normal. A/C on all day.
 

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2000 ETC
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Feeling much better about all of this now. Its been nearly a week since I last posted and the car has not flinched a tiny bit beyond the normal temp. I even drove it in the Woodward Dream Cruise figuring it would have at least bumped up a bit in the miles of bumper to bumper traffic and it ran perfect and held rock steady at the normal place on the gauge. Miles and miles of awesome cars as far as the eye can see.

So now I am going to see if I can figure out how to find a sticky on door panel parts and replacement. Both doors are missing the lower clips that hold the panels and some thin dark gray (black) plastic is breaking away from inside I need to fix.

Good luck with your SLS Vladpryde. Your certainly in good hands here. :)

Thanks again to all who supported.
 

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So now I am going to see if I can figure out how to find a sticky on door panel parts and replacement. Both doors are missing the lower clips that hold the panels and some thin dark gray (black) plastic is breaking away from inside I need to fix.
If you are referring to the "L" shaped hooks that hold the bottom of the panel to the frame, you cannot buy them, they are an integral part of the door panel. However, if you look back at one of my posts, I described how to make them and attach them to the existing panel as a permanent fix.
 

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My 1999 Eldorado with 82k started over heating about 2 months ago – a block test initially passed – keeping the fluid blue – but several weeks later as it continued to over heat and lose coolant – I reran the coolant test – yellow fluid this time. From everything I have read on the forum – it was probably an early sign of a blown head gasket. Again, I reread all the threads on the forum and decided I had 2 options – one would cost about $2500+ to remove engine and install inserts - #2 would be to install a remanufactured NorthStar for about $6k. I agonized over which one to choose – then I found a $250 solution = https://thermalweld.com/ I reluctantly ordered the product for $250 after talking with Robert Hooper @805-440-3175 the owner and chemist inventor of Thermalweld. Mr. Hooper created Thermalweld in 1995 and has had 24 years experience helping Cadillac NorthStar owners fix their over heating problems. I flushed my NorthStar of Dexcool by draining the block thru the purge line. Refilled with water and added Thermalweld following Mr. Hooper’s detailed instructions – I installed the 2 bottles on 8/22 and have driven over 400 miles with no loss of coolant and temp gauge stays right at 12 oclock. I couldn’t be happier – yes I was skeptical – but felt it was worth a chance $250- or $6k – the Thermaweld will not clog anything -radiator -heater core -water pump – because of it’s chemical composition. I refilled coolant system with 50/50 Prestone green antifreeze – being anal I used distilled water for the 50/50 mix
I would guess most old Cadillac NorthStar owners are like me – old farts who love their Cadillacs – in my opinion no Cadillac’s since the discontinuance of the Eldo in 2002 can match the classic styling – mine is Silver with a full Silver vinyl top. I love it! I know a lot of forum contributors will poo poo this solution – Submariner409 was kind but skeptical and adopted a “ we’ll wait and see attitude” I drove 8000 miles last year-153 miles per week – it’s been about 3 weeks and I’ve pushed myself to make more trips to the grocery store and Walmart to put miles on – checking coolant after every drive. Not a drop lost.
The advantage of Cadillac Forums is to share knowledge/ and experiences -good and bad…so far my experience with Thermalweld has been good….I know that time will tell. Maybe this will encourage other NorthStar owners to try the product. And give us their results
 

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2000 ETC
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Caddyeldo,
Thanks for your reply. My 2000 is still holding strong but I do worry that one day I will be forced to make a decision on the the headbolt issue. Being a new cadillac owner I am learning a great deal about the car thanks to the support and insight from the many contributors here. I will definitely stay tuned to your posts regarding this as well as it could at the very least buy me more time and it sounds like your fix is going well.
 

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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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66,241 Posts
2KEldo, based on past Northstar experience, please stay skeptical and DO NOT dump snake oils into your Northstar cooling system. Bottom line.

He has had the stuff in the system for only 3 weeks. Just wait ........ his admitted 400 miles since install is NOTHING.......and his 1999 engine - one of the most failure-prone years - is quite different from yours.

Click this link to our non-scientific Northstar head bolt thread failure poll and use the "View results" tab.


FWIW, the purge line is a high point in the cooling system. Impossible to drain the system through it. See Post #2 for the location of the purge line supply nipple.
 

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2000 ETC
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Very cool poll Submariner409! The sharp 50% drop favoring my year is a huge relief too. And dont worry about me, even though Caddyeldo is doing ok with his and I'm happy for him, I'm not adding anything into my coolant system without running it past this forum.
 
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