Either you have an external leak, which should be very evident or your master cylinder is leaking internally at the piston seal and needs to be replaced.
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I found the leak! When I removed the lower valance pan I moved the brake line causing it to leak. Can't understand that with 55,000 miles but it is now leaking at the rubber or plastic conection that curves up from the straight piece of aluminium line that runs along the bottom of the radiator. The line looks like it goes to the right front caliper. Will I need to replace the entire line? If so do I need to remove the engine for access? 
Any quick fixes?
Thanks,
Justin
Any quick fixes?Thanks,
Justin
The lines must be fabricated.
There are a couple of ways to do this, but the method you speak of should work... however.
Be aware there are 2 types of crimps that GM uses.
One is a standard type double flare, that will come on any pre-made lines.
Also use a lot these days is something called an ISO flare.
It is much harder to make a reliable ISO flare than a double flare and it requires a special pipe flaring tool.
Making your own flares can be tricky, but it is doable.
The best pipe flaring kit tool on the market (to my knowledge) is this one:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html
We have one like this but it was a bit cheaper because it only has a small number of anvil sets in it.
Don't use compression fittings, replace pipe in complete segments if possible. You can buy unions for flare fittings but each length of pipe will need a quality flared end on it.
Good luck, Lord knows I hate fabricating brake lines, but I have made some really nice ones in my day.
There are a couple of ways to do this, but the method you speak of should work... however.
Be aware there are 2 types of crimps that GM uses.
One is a standard type double flare, that will come on any pre-made lines.
Also use a lot these days is something called an ISO flare.
It is much harder to make a reliable ISO flare than a double flare and it requires a special pipe flaring tool.
Making your own flares can be tricky, but it is doable.
The best pipe flaring kit tool on the market (to my knowledge) is this one:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html
We have one like this but it was a bit cheaper because it only has a small number of anvil sets in it.
Don't use compression fittings, replace pipe in complete segments if possible. You can buy unions for flare fittings but each length of pipe will need a quality flared end on it.
Good luck, Lord knows I hate fabricating brake lines, but I have made some really nice ones in my day.
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