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Discussion Starter #1
The problem I had was the cable that has a metal grommet on it sits in a plastic housing. This plastic (white) housing has metal clips in it that hold the grommet (attached to the cable) in place. Now one of the sides of the plastic clip broke and the metal that holds the grommet in place bent allowing the grommit to move past the clip and not roll the window up or down.

I removed the arm (the part that actually holds the window) from the window regulator. It is held on by white plastic (omg they use so much plastic in my deville) clips - on either side of the rail, you can just pop it off. Be careful not to let the cable come off of the pully wheels on either end of the window regulator.

Now I went to home depot and bought a "hose clamp"

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/[email protected]@@@[email protected]@@@&BV_EngineID=ccddaddfmigljiicgelceffdfgidgnl.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=Super%20Categories/Building%20%26%20Remodeling&MID=9876&pos=p04

go to plumbing then to "hose clamps" and you will see what i mean.

Now on the Arm (the part that actually holds the window) there are 4 square holes. Look at the side of your clip (the small area that holds the grommet on the cable in place) whatever side is broken. There are 2 squares on either side of this.

The idea here is to use a "hose clamp" (metal one) and put it through 2 squares to go across the cable and clamp down holding the metal grommet on the cable in place.

I know this sounds crazy but it took me 1/2 an hour to do and I am not a mechanic/repairman of any kind. (actually I am a realtor).

So I had to drill out the 2 squares on either side of where the cable goes so I could put the "hose clamp" through the 2 squares. I put the ARM back on the window regulator and put the cable back in place with the metal grommet
where it belongs in its little housing on the ARM and then I put the "hose clamp" through the 2 squares and tightened it down.

Now the window works solid and is quiet as compared to my drivers side which makes a click noise when i put it down. So that one is next for me.

But really it cost me 5.00 for the hose clamp, 5.00 for the drill bit (as wide as the hose clamp), 5.00 for a dremmel bit to clean up the plastic on the ARM (to make the hose clamp fit tight against the cable and grommet. The hose clamp actually goes right under the metal grommet so that the cable/metal grommet will ride up or down against the metal hose clamp.

Let me know if this was explained ok or if I sound like a retard. I can explain better if need be, next time I will take pictures. FISH
 

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01 frontier , 89 Shelby CSX vnt
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you did pretty good , this is a fairly big problem on these devilles .....still no real good fix from GM yet , best bet is to do this and forget the dealership for fixing the windows ...ive talked to 2 people that have done similar things with great sucesss , they were there for just a oil change
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do the updated regulators cost $15.00?

Probably not, so this is a good repair for those of us who do not WANT to spend 500.00 per window regulator. Plus the first one I repaired took a 1/2 hour so I can only assume the next ones will take less time than that. Hell it takes me over 30 min to get to the Caddy dealer and they are always booked, this might pose a problem the next time (one of my unmodded) window regulators fail and the window drops in the door - Oh and I am sure it will start raining LOL.
 

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Fish,

My drivers window broke in the down position this morning for my wife and I'm getting flack already about it. She just drive her boss' car to the shop to get his fixed last week. Sheesh, talk about timing. :thepan:

I saw your post on how to use the "hose clamp" procedure and I was trying to get into the door to see if it would work for me.... But..... I can't get the door panel off to see inside!

I have a 2000 Deville, and I have unclipped the clips around the door, and I've removed two screws at the top of the panel (under the door lock and under the door opening handle cover (held on by velcro -- first time I saw that.... neet).

Where and how do I get to the other screws holding the door panel on?

Thanks,
Bill
 

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I found my answer in another thread.

To remove the door panel:
All you need to do is remove the two screws (that I did) and pop the clips around the door (that I did) and then pull the door upward. There are two clips that hold the handle to the metal in the door that wil slip off their brackets when the door panel is pulled up.

Fish, I found that I could have used your "hose clamp" fix..... IF the pully at the top hadn't gotten all farbed up when trying out the sound and trying to put the window up so many times. It just goofed things up worse. Better luck next time.

I'll have to order one from the guy on ebay at:

http://stores.ebay.com/WINDOW-MOTOR-WORLD-INC


Hey, do you think that it could be a preventative measure to go ahead and put a clamp on the windows that have not broken to have them last longer?

Thanks for your posts and I hope this one helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Only problem with doing the "hose clamp" method on regulators that work fine, is that you do not know which side will go. I only put 1 hose clamp on as the other side was fine. I suppose you could just do it on both sides - what it would cost like 5.00 more LOL, I didnt think of that when i fixed mine. FISH
 

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So is this exact problem, been the exact problem all of the regulators have been having. I am getting ready to take the panel back off this weekend to get a better visual of what he is describing.
 
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