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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 2000 Deville from the mother-in-law with 100,000 mi for free however she overheated it and blew the head gasket. I have been doing my homework on the northstar head bolt stripping out problem. I am going to do it myself. I don't have a lift so I'm going to pull it from the top with a engine hoist and mount it on a engine stand to work on it. I have a real problem with paying $500 for a time-sert
I really don't have the money. I have my own tap & die set I've been using them for years. I can make my own guide to drill the holes out. I want to order a little larger head bolts with thicker threads to grip the aluminum or buy studs. To me it doesn't make cents to drill out the block and put a plug in and then screw the bolt in. It just doesn't sound logical when there are bolt options i can cut to length if I need to. I need your criticism on this idea or should I just get the kit. Thanks guys
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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I got a 2000 Deville from the mother-in-law with 100,000 mi for free however she overheated it and blew the head gasket. I have been doing my homework on the northstar head bolt stripping out problem. I am going to do it myself. I don't have a lift so I'm going to pull it from the top with a engine hoist and mount it on a engine stand to work on it. I have a real problem with paying $500 for a time-sert
I really don't have the money. I have my own tap & die set I've been using them for years. I can make my own guide to drill the holes out. I want to order a little larger head bolts with thicker threads to grip the aluminum or buy studs. To me it doesn't make cents to drill out the block and put a plug in and then screw the bolt in. It just doesn't sound logical when there are bolt options i can cut to length if I need to. I need your criticism on this idea or should I just get the kit. Thanks guys
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doing it "your way" - you ARE destined to FAIL!
 

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2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
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Not sure there are thicker headbolts you can use. Even if you do use something thicker, they may not go thru the holes in the head. Recall the stock bolts being almost a slip fit in the heads.
Nothing wrong with Timeserts; I've done over a dozen.
Check E-bay for the installation kit; that's where I bought my two sets.
I've heard of folks pulling the engine out the top, But they admit "never again".
Something about clearance on the passenger side rail.
 

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92 Fleetwood 2dr cpe - FWD, 96 Seville SLS, 02 Seville
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If you use a stock type head bolt with large threads, you probably would have to drill the head as well and that will create additional problems.

Use the inserts or studs designed for North Star to ensure longetivity. Work some OT, bank the dough and get the right parts.
 

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2003 Deville Base
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I got a 2000 Deville from the mother-in-law with 100,000 mi for free however she overheated it and blew the head gasket. I have been doing my homework on the northstar head bolt stripping out problem. I am going to do it myself. I don't have a lift so I'm going to pull it from the top with a engine hoist and mount it on a engine stand to work on it. I have a real problem with paying $500 for a time-sert
I really don't have the money. I have my own tap & die set I've been using them for years. I can make my own guide to drill the holes out. I want to order a little larger head bolts with thicker threads to grip the aluminum or buy studs. To me it doesn't make cents to drill out the block and put a plug in and then screw the bolt in. It just doesn't sound logical when there are bolt options i can cut to length if I need to. I need your criticism on this idea or should I just get the kit. Thanks guys
Welcome to the forums! Bunch of gearheads here, many of whom have dealt with this same issue. No shortcuts. Buy the kit and do it right.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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You can use the insert kit from Norm Huhn - www.huhnsolutions.com - and new GM head bolts. Or use a complete BigSert (Time Fastener Co.) kit or the stud kit from www.northstarperformance.com.

Any way you cut it you'll need $2000+ to do the whole job. It ain't just bolts and drills.

There's not enough meat in the cylinder heads to drill out the existing holes and go to larger bolts. Bolt holes in the block, inserts or studs to get back to the original bolt diameter.

As posted earlier, DIY with bigger holes and head drilling and you're creating a nice boat anchor.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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20,551 Posts
Can you explain your comments?
====================
sure - short and sweet -

FIRST -
EVERY single method known to man has been tried -

MOST have failed -

a few have PROVEN to be successful -
good - timeserts -
better - bigserts -
best - specialty studs made by Jake -

-----------------------------

NEXT -
larger bolts won't work for several reasons - including -
1) they won't fit through the original holes in the heads -
2) if you try to enlarge the holes in the heads - you'll weaken the heads dramatically -

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LASTLY -
you NEED a jig to drill a straight hole - and tap that hole -

NO ONE - not even ME -
can drill and tap 20 holes PERFECTLY - without a jig -

--------------------

do yourself a BIG favor -
stick to the methods that are KNOWN to work - and you MIGHT have a successful outcome -

do it "your way" - and come up with a couple additional "short-cuts" -
I can GUARANTEE failure -

--------------------

good luck - and keep us posted -
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited by Moderator)
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doing it "your way" - you ARE destined to FAIL!
Thank you for your feedback guys. My next question is I know a few of you bought the kit and it's sitting in your toolbox collecting dust. Who wants to loan it out for a small fee.
You can use the insert kit from Norm Huhn - www.huhnsolutions.com - and new GM head bolts. Or use a complete BigSert (Time Fastener Co.) kit or the stud kit from www.northstarperformance.com.

Any way you cut it you'll need $2000+ to do the whole job. It ain't just bolts and drills.

There's not enough meat in the cylinder heads to drill out the existing holes and go to larger bolts. Bolt holes in the block, inserts or studs to get back to the original bolt diameter.

As posted earlier, DIY with bigger holes and head drilling and you're creating a nice boat anchor.
 

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2000 Deville DHS
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Thank you for your feedback guys. My next question is I know a few of you bought the kit and it's sitting in your toolbox collecting dust. Who wants to loan it out for a small fee.
Sure, as long as you leave your left hand as a deposit.lol. J/k
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited by Moderator)
Thank you for your feedback guys. My next question is I know a few of you bought the kit and it's sitting in your toolbox collecting dust. Who wants to loan it out for a small fee.
You can use the insert kit from Norm Huhn - www.huhnsolutions.com - and new GM head bolts. Or use a complete BigSert (Time Fastener Co.) kit or the stud kit from www.northstarperformance.com.

Any way you cut it you'll need $2000+ to do the whole job. It ain't just bolts and drills.

There's not enough meat in the cylinder heads to drill out the existing holes and go to larger bolts. Bolt holes in the block, inserts or studs to get back to the original bolt diameter.

As posted earlier, DIY with bigger holes and head drilling and you're creating a nice boat anchor.
Please explain where $2000+ dollars to do it myself? I found a complete gasket kit on ebay for 100$ Time-sert 450$ change oil pan gasket 10$ all new fluids 80$ I have A/C vacuum pump is there something I'm forgetting?

Sure, as long as you leave your left hand as a deposit.lol. J/k
I would be willing to send money through Paypal to whomever to hold till I send it back in the same condition you sent to me.

Not sure there are thicker headbolts you can use. Even if you do use something thicker, they may not go thru the holes in the head. Recall the stock bolts being almost a slip fit in the heads.
Nothing wrong with Timeserts; I've done over a dozen.
Check E-bay for the installation kit; that's where I bought my two sets.
I've heard of folks pulling the engine out the top, But they admit "never again".
Something about clearance on the passenger side rail.
I found a article where if you pull the harmonic balancer it will come out with no problems
 

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I'm sure there is a thread here of a guy that removed the engine from the top. It's not easy but not impossible.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Dpenzo38, For starters on the ? $2,000 guesstimate, at 100,000 miles on the engine you'll find that the 3 timing chain tensioners and their guide slippers are nearly worn out and must be replaced. A/C refrigerant. Coolant. Engine oil/filter. New engine oil pressure sending switch. New engine oil distribution plate. Air filter, throttlebody cleaner. New water pump belt tensioner pulley. And on and on and on ....... You're getting into much more than a quickie head bolt hole insert job.

........ and the original TimeSerts are no longer used by GM. They now recommend the BigSert at least ........ Most of us like the NS300L inserts or the NP studs.

Plus the real GM/Cadillac service manuals. Try to wing this job and you're doomed to big-time failure. Lots of special procedures and torque + degrees settings. Subscribe the car to www.alldatadiy.com or find a used paper service manual set on eBay.

Did you know that the oil pump is driven solely by correct harmonic balancer bolt torque + degrees of bolt rotation? Do it wrong and you have 0 oil pressure.

Correct timing setup for starters?

Timing chains and marks gif.gif


Timing_Chain_Installation.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really appreciate your willingness to make sure I know what I'm getting myself into. I don't expect this to be a walk in the park. I have been working on cars since I was a kid. I'm not rushing this repair at all. It's going to be a month or two project. I'm great full to have this website and people like yourself to help. I was going to ask what else I needed to be replaced but you already answered that. I was looking at the NS300L and if that's what you guys recommend than that's what I will use.
 

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I think we also have a thread or two here of guys dropping the cradle without a lift. There are several ways to skin a cat depending on the level of ambition and determination.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Look into the new GM/Cadillac method of replacing the oil pan formed silicone seal,(there is/was no "gasket") with a bead of GM RTV-Gray.

oil pan 7 quarts.jpg
 

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I was able to drop the entire subframe in my garage without a lift in about 4 hours including removal of the radiator and maintaining the A/C charge. I “rented” 30 solid concrete blocks from the depot and used four spare tire jacks to lift the car with jack stands to catch the car if they failed. The subframe was bolted first along with the strut bolts and the mounts in the wheel wells. If you do it this way, unbolt the wiring harness from the fuse box and the bulkhead connector near the master cylinder, the ground at the frame, heater core, EVAP line (forgot that one), fuel lines, brake lines, steering intermediate shaft, shifter cable, throttle cables, and exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think I will drop the engine. I already took the radiator out and disconnected the fuel lines. I was looking at using a farm jack like the ones you would see on older jeeps and using two furniture dollies to lower it on so I can roll it out from under the car.
594001

I took the intake manifold off and was amazed at the carbon build-up is this normal?
594002
594003
20210127_215231.jpg
20210130_125325.jpg
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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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I think I will drop the engine. I already took the radiator out and disconnected the fuel lines. I was looking at using a farm jack like the ones you would see on older jeeps and using two furniture dollies to lower it on so I can roll it out from under the car. View attachment 594001
I took the intake manifold off and was amazed at the carbon build-up is this normal? View attachment 594002 View attachment 594003 View attachment 594001 View attachment 594002 View attachment 594003
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I took the intake manifold off and was amazed at the carbon build-up is this normal?
not unusual -
all that goes through there is air and the fumes scavenged through the PCV system -
no gasoline/solvents to clean the crap away -
 
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