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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, I have a 2000 Deville DHS (manufactured in michigan).
I got it at 120,000 miles after a transmission swap and a "tune-up" (new spark plugs)

This is the first car I've ever owned, ever worked on!

I have so far replaced front axles (GSP FE1), Tie Rods (ACDelco FE1), Sway bar links (ACDelco FE1), Sway bar bracket + bushing (SKP 28mm), Wheel Hub+Bearing (MEVOTECH BXT), Valve Cover Gasket (FEL-PRO), water pump pulley, tensioner, a few random missing bolts and fuses. power steering is leaking, i believe head gasket has a crack but the bars aluminum stuff i use seals it up.

After having an easier than expected time changing valve cover gaskets, I attempted to change intake manifold + coupler, as I was getting a slight vacuum leak,
After cleaning all the gunk out of my manifold i was ready for the engine to run great! Eager to put things back together, I snapped a manifold bolt... deep into the head.... and in that moment it felt as if id destroyed the entire car:whistle::eek:. Tried spinning it with a screwdriver.. nada.. just about a centimeter of bolt is stuck down there, as i have the majority of it still intact, thought the "spacer" that makes the bolt unique is stuck onto it. What should I do> The car still runs but with a bad very audible vacuum leak.

I cant find a replacement bolt or part number or anyone else who did this anywhere! it seems they dont even sell replacements with a new manifold!!!! There are some bolts.. but how do i know what kind of spacer to get.. i dont even know what this spacer is called.

This is the closest i can find to the part, but the part number exists nowhere else and i cant even find spacers like this. So i have two problems

A. How do i get this little tiny piece of bolt out of my dang manifold man, what do i do. should i spray pb blaster and just hope the engine knocks it loose eventually, and if so how do i grab onto it when its too small and deep to possibly drill into?

B. What do i replace this with? Feeling like i gotta press my manifold down with a bungee cord


thanks for advice everyone :)
 

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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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Careful work with a variable speed drill, good lighting, tough drill bit, an EZ-Out - and patience.


Intake manifold bolt torque is only 7.5 lb/ft. NOT very tight.

You NEED to get a used paper copy of the real GM/Cadillac service manuals for that car year and model from eBay or online at www.alldatadiy.com.

Too bad you ruined the engine for further repair by using a sealant in the coolant. IF a head gasket was leaking due to failed head bolt hole threads in the cylinder block it must be repaired using wither threaded inserts or studs. Sealants clog small cooling passages and make cooling system (all of it) cleaning difficult to impossible. A common cause of overheating is a clogged purge line - especially the long one on the Deville - that allows air pockets to remain in the system, causing the water pump to stop pumping, overheating the engine. It's all in the stickies in the Engines; Northstar forums.

DO NOT use the sealant tablets specified on the (never updated) radiator cover sticker. That was dropped in 2006.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Careful work with a variable speed drill, good lighting, tough drill bit, an EZ-Out - and patience.
It seems deep in there and it really is a very small thread t, in my head. I feel like an EZ-out is just begging to damage it more, especially for a rookie like me(hopefully i am learning from my mistakes and don't do anything fatal) I think my best bet would be hammering a long torx bit in and hoping it spins. thread serts if i have to, not the hardest place to do that if it seems.

Intake manifold bolt torque is only 7.5 lb/ft. NOT very tight.

You NEED to get a used paper copy of the real GM/Cadillac service manuals for that car year and model from eBay or online at www.alldatadiy.com.
I have the Haynes manual and saw the torques just didnt have a wrench that went that low. All other bolts were good, this one snapped with seemingly no pressure. had an inch lb wrench but it was seemingly broken from the story. Just got a manual 80 inch lb to give me a better idea of what it should be. Cant find a specific manual for my year/model.


Too bad you ruined the engine for further repair by using a sealant in the coolant. IF a head gasket was leaking due to failed head bolt hole threads in the cylinder block it must be repaired using wither threaded inserts or studs. Sealants clog small cooling passages and make cooling system (all of it) cleaning difficult to impossible. A common cause of overheating is a clogged purge line - especially the long one on the Deville - that allows air pockets to remain in the system, causing the water pump to stop pumping, overheating the engine. It's all in the stickies in the Engines; Northstar forums.

DO NOT use the sealant tablets specified on the (never updated) radiator cover sticker. That was dropped in 2006.

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I don't thin this sealant had "ruined" my engine as the BARs seems like the good stuff, and my oil looked perfectly oil-ey the last time i changed it, after having been using the sealant at least 2000 miles. If i dont use it the engine burns coolant and im sorry but i just dont have the money or time to do a head gasket job. I know i shouldnt have got a northstar cadillac if thats the case but i dont care im gonna make this car run beautiful just not doing headgasket right now, this is all al learning process for me as well. If I have issues, ill air blast the purge bolt thing, but so far the sealant is keeping her cool and happy. my real issue is still, how do i get this manifold bolt out:ROFLMAO:

I appreciate your reply!!
 
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