OK...Next update on my engine issue. The Cadillac dealership where I have my car called me after 3 weeks and said that the engine had no compression (on any cylinder) so they decided to order new pistons assuming that the pistons were the issue. A week later after they disassembled the engine and found that all 4 pistons were broke at the 10 o'clock position between the first and second compression rings. I was getting frustrated with the dealership because they were taking so long to get to my car and the information I was getting back from them was limited and not helpful, I decided to go down and see the car in person. Essentially, there was a chunk of broken piston about an inch long sandwiched between the rings. The broken part of the piston stayed with the piston and it looks like there is no damage to the cylinder. There was a lot of black carbon/coking on top the pistons themselves and I confirmed that all pistons were broken in the same spot. The dealership said that they have never seen this before. I asked if the new pistons were sturdier than the old ones...they said that they were but didn't know what made them better... I tried to press for a new long block since I'm now worried that some small bits of metal ran through the engine damaging other parts. They said that GM only pays so much for engine repairs and they wouldn't pay for a new block. I asked them to replace the spark plugs and timing chain since those parts are already out of the engine. Is there anything else I should have replaced while the engine is out?

 

With all that I would push for a new motor more. None of this is your fault and you are paying for this car. I would be really afraid 50k miles down the road it would blow up. If they didn't I might drop that car off there and say bye to it. Then call a lawyer because I do not want that car back unless they put in a new motor. To much could be wrong with it. I hope things turn out well for you.

 

I pray you have a better dealership than the one that was inside my motor twice before it was eventually replaced.
My troubles began at only 28,000 mi, and my (failed) rebuild included a crank and valves due to a timing gear failure. Started hearing top end noise at 30k miles and it was then replaced.
Stupid warranty policy cost me over 60 days without my car.
Kick, bite, scratch, and fight for a complete engine NOW.

 

I pray you have a better dealership than the one that was inside my motor twice before it was eventually replaced.
My troubles began at only 28,000 mi, and my (failed) rebuild included a crank and valves due to a timing gear failure. Started hearing top end noise at 30k miles and it was then replaced.
Stupid warranty policy cost me over 60 days without my car.
Kick, bite, scratch, and fight for a complete engine NOW.

I agree with you %100

 

It’s just a business transaction to them. If the engine is fixable, there is a good tech working on it, and it’ll cost less to fix it then replace it...they’ll fix it. After all, they are paying the repair bill.
If you were paying the repair bill and the engine is fixable, there is a good tech working on it, and it’ll cost less to fix it then replace it...you’d probably pay to fix it instead of replacing it. Just saying.

 

you’d probably pay to fix it instead of replacing it

Nope. See my story above.
I'd rather find a low miles used engine vs. a dealership rebuild if I was paying.

 

For me just fixing the motor is a bandaid until warranty runs out. It's a second hand car at that point with a rebuild. The car never runs the same in most cases. We have to keep up with our end of the deal when buying. I think it's only fair with the known problem just replace the motor and they might spend less money in the long run. If I was guaranteed a good tech and good parts no problem. But you never know what your gonna get.

Just my opinion but if they were going to fix it I would have that done and get rid of the car. I would chalk it up as a loss and move on. If this was going on with my vsport I would get out of it. I understand faulty parts but not the motor. The motor is the # 1 factor for me buying a car. And it's hard for me to get rid of a car. I get attached. It was hard for me to hand in my ats at the end of the lease.

 

And it's hard for me to get rid of a car. I get attached.

That's my problem - I wanted this car bad - then this dealership made me hate it for most of the first year I had it....
Fortunately it's all good now. Different dealer has been great for the second year so far.
Having said that, I just extended warranty for 4 yrs.

 

Hello all. I have a 2.0 2015 about 80k miles. Blown 1cyl piston and seriously damaged a cylinder wall ( i has a tune to about 320HP) .
Now i want to order a used engine. As i understand its from 2017 8k miles camaro, the questions of mine is.
1. Did it wil fit? Did the transmision to Block is the same? ( 2017 ats is 8 autospeed and mine is 6 speed auto)
2. I heard thay until some produxtion Number of 2017 there is some problems witg piston i think and need to check this, but i cant find thay TSB.

I Will be happy for Quick reply because i need to give an answer until friday to keep thay engine for me.

 

kolyani4, could you give more details on your tune (what brand tune, type of fuel used, driving habits, any aftermarket parts, average weather temp)? I have a 16' coupe and have been holding off on a catted DP and tune for fear of just this sort of event. Any additional info would be great.

 

Of course, but i"m very skeptical about what caused this issue, my mechanic says that its maybe a dirty injector. its looks like the rings are in good condition, only a small peace of piston is missing, and wall is damaged by this peace, also it damaged the turbo ( the turbo compressor wheel in "hot side" are have a lot of free moving bearing ).
Regard to a tune: I have a custom tune using HP Tuners interface + pops and crackles tune mod ( Maybe the pops and crackles are caused this, but i didn't use it many ).
Fuel used: Europe 95 ( this is 91 in USA ).
Driving habits: Moderate-aggressive.
Performance Mods to car: Injen CAI, Custom 3" Catted 200-Cell downpipe, straight flow exhaust.
Weather temp: its hot region, average temp past month 13-15 degree Celsius ( the issue happens in late night, its was about 10 Celsius ).
my conclusion that the issue is mainly caused by weak 13-15 pistons in combination of exhaust pops and crackle mod, mainly by the pops and crackles.
After i replace the engine i think that i will get a Trifecta or ZZP tune, and maybe install a oil catch can ( mishi or something generic just to intake tube ).

You car is 16 ( check the production date of engine on engine front cover, its looks like T116, the 16 its a year of production )
if you have a 16 year of production, you potentially have a updated thicker piston and as i understand and updated rings.

i ordered a 2017 engine, hope its will fit a 6 speed transmission without any issues. its will took about 2 weeks to arrive and install. i will update.

 

my experience with Cadillac has been terrible. I will not ever buy one again. it has been in the shop more than anything I have owned in my entire life. i have had hondas, VW's, gm pickups, mustangs, even the BMW wasnt in my shop more than this car. This engine was a rush built. my guess to was they probably had forged machined pistons in their prototype and of course that would make the engine great! but without those catastrophic failure is imminent its only a matter of time. tuning it speeds that up. I had a stage 2 VW golf R that I maintained very well but I drove that thing hard. never once did it fail on me. not even once was I left on the side of the road. this thing has been a curse since day one and has taught me some very hard lessons. I had my engine replaced by the dealership with a remanufactured engine from GM. the ONLY and I mean ONLY good thing is the warranty involved with them replacing it. when I went to see the engine they had it for a few days. they said they were ready to put it in that day. I wanted to see it before they put it in. speaking of idiots who shouldnt be replacing engines. well I got there and they had the oil pan and front engine cover for a buick regal GS. I said... well you guys are going to be hard pressed getting this in my car. and the tech said why its brand new. I said well see that mount on the engine cover? thats for the buick regal that is transverse mounted. he sat there and stared at me. I said oh and the oil pan... thats also for the transverse engine. see the spot for the drive axle through the pan? right then and there I should have trashed the idea of ever having a normal car. the stupid idiots gave the car back to me and on my drive home the steering went out.... guess what they didnt do? ground the engine to the chassis. the MAIN GROUND... so yeah. unless I take this to ZZP and have them do a once over this car is going the minute I can afford to get something german.

 

CBcadiATS
You are right, the GM garage are very unprofessional staff, in past i thinks that this only in Israel, but as i started to read forums i saw that its all around the world the same low qualified staff. but im realy sure that in other brand the situation with staff is same, just i not in that boat and didnt know about other brands garade ( im on GM brand cars from 1st day that i interesed in cars as i been a teen, when i got a driving licence i also bought a GM cars.

UPDT:
The engine was installed in a car, they was fit perfectly, but this parts need to be transfered from old engine.
1. Fuel RAIL Pressure sensor ( Very important), they are not compatible, the 2017+ are not the same and shows 23MPA rail pressure with engine off, engine didn't start and didnt open injectors because "Pressure adjustment" that ECU made to injector opening time. ) sadly, but need to take down a Intake manifold to get it replaced. ( i recommend to doing that when engine is out of car, its a lot easier, also prepare a new intake manifold gasket ), also this issue doesn't set any DTC !!!

2. Engine mounts and maybe other small components, but its not so important as fuel rail sensor, because all other things can be replaced without tearing something off.

 

Do you know if it’s just because the fuel rail was from a Camaro, or is it any fuel rail from 2017+ whether it’s from an ATS or Camaro.

 

Im sure that its all from 2016-2017 LTG engine cars that uses E80 or any other ECM that not a E39A that <2015 uses.

 

Cadillac ranks second best in service department customer satisfaction according to JD Power. Plenty of good dealer stories on this site, mixed in with the bad experiences.

 

Awesome, thanks again!

 

You're welcome.

Hope the issues will not get again.

i"m thinking on getting a catch can, cause the oil in intake may reduce a fuel octane and get a knock.
i read about a mishi catch cans, but they are expensive for me today. and when i know that only expensive part of they system is a "PCV adapter" and hoses, a catch cans are 20$ ebay cans. but i didnt know if its worth to get the catch can only on turbo side, i think its worth it.

 

Guys, although I got a 2014 CTS, I found this topic has the most information about these piston failures of the LTG engine. Now I'm considering my options, and one is to get a complete engine from a newer (2016+) car. What I'm still not sure that it fits as-is, and only the fuel pressure sensor needs to be switched from the old engine. Is it the case? All the ECU/PCM connections, hoses, sensors, etc are compatible, If I get an engine from a 2016 CTS or ATS? Thanks in advance helping me out with this, here in Europe this thing is much more of a problem, especially GM sold Opel to PSA. Another thing what I have in mind, even though I'm not sure anyone will have experience: the 2.0 Opel Insignia has this type of engine (LTG). it's slightly weaker and its mounted to a FWD car, so I'm sure there are differences, but in terms of parts (pistons, rings, etc) can it be the same? Or there are mechanical differences between LTG version based on the car it's fitted into?

 

Yes. Its fits as is, except the fuel rail pressure sensor, all sensors i kept from 2018 engine, you can also get the engine from fwd car ( just need to exchange untake manifold and maybe engine front cover its difient, its has a bump for engine mount and and rwd cover has a holes for engine harness clips. But im sure that this is not important, if i got a fwd engine i preffer not to open it and secure a harness by zip ties or something.
The opel insignia has same engine, the less power coming from 2.5" exhaust pipe, 2 catalyst converters, and more restriced overall exhaust system, the software are same ( i compared the malibu 2.0 vs ats 2.0 software in hptuners its 98% same calibrations settings so, if you can get that engine, get it. All LTG engines is same, deffience only in covers, sensors, etc, so it can be transfered from old engine.

 

Thanks... I'm trying to look around here, and hopefully next week we will remove the cylinder head to check whether the walls are scratched or not. Maybe I will repair the current one, if only the piston failed.

 

Right, first check how bad is the fail, if you have someone with barescope camera, with control if the camera head banding ( without it you cant view anything but only center of piston ).
Removing of cylinder head is a bit complicated procedure, so if you have a option to lease frome someone a giod barescope camera you better do that.

 

I read a bunch of posts in the beginning and last few pages but not all 33 pages. Is it true that no one has had piston issues or failures with 2016 and newer 2.0Ts?

 

My 16 had a major rebuild, but it was due to a timing gear failure, not piston failure. Actually got a complete new engine shortly after (long story).

 

My 16,..Actually got a complete new engine shortly after (long story).

Did that related to pistons or rebuilt issues? .

As i read a camaro6 2.0 forums nobody has issue with pistons, some actualy has, but Generaly from real detonation and not lspi, maybe this is a answer, because a camsro drivers droves hes car more agressivly and not lagging ?

 

Wow.. Its even hard to hear, and how you feel it.. Very hard...
How simple front cover leak repair procedure can end up with new engine...
I think that sdealer killed a engine, with a gasket maker or something else.
Because that i didnt visit to dealer shop even the simple oil change proccedure they fail ( in past car that also GM Chevy, the overfilled me a one quart of engine oil more that required.)
Maybe if i was is US i can go to curt. But in Israel its almost impossible.

 

2014 Cadillac ATS, piston had a hole burned in the top of it. Needed a new long block. Engine replaced. This was at 75k miles

 

Wow. The burned hole is mainly caused by lean mixture if i didnt mistake.
Its strange because mainly engine runs a luttle rich mixture ( 13.97 ) if i remember right.aybe a clogged injector...

 

I’m hoping that they checked all that out when they replaced the engine 😅😅

 

If replacing a whole engine the injectors also new.

 

There was something in the notes I read about transferring parts from the old engine to the new. So I’m wondering along what lines they replaced and kept from the old engine.

 

As i understand that if they replacing it as part, by a part number (12669126) they will receive a complete engine ( a long Block).

 

Bought 2014 ATS Lux premium used and 38k on the odo on 08/05 Now the poor thing is sitting at Ron Tonkin Chevy waiting to be diagnosed as if I did not know it swallowed the piston [ Missfire ,CEL light, could not out run a dead fart] Did purchase a good service contract and hope they can repair the motor. My car is a Feb 2014 car

 

Good luck! Mine is also a feb 2014 vehicle