I loaned my 1999 Cadillac Seville STS to a friend. While they had it, they lost the key. They had a new key made, and the car ran great for about a week. Now, when you put the key in, and try to start it, nothing happens. All the lights come on on the dashboard, it makes the "dinging" noise of the key being in the ignition, but nothing happens when you try to start it. The day before yesterday, it said, "service theft system" on the D.I.C., but it stopped doing that. I thought everything was okay when it stopped saying that, but nothing has changed. Is is possible that it's the new key causing the problem? How do I get my car up and running again? Someone PLEASE help.
-
BEWARE OF SCAMMERS. Anyone trying to get your money should be checked out BEFORE you send anything anywhere.
bmartonick
Re: I have tried everything I can think of, and nothing works.
You need to contact either an automotive locksmith or a Cadillac dealership. New keys must be programmed to THAT car using either an old, good key or a GM Tech-II program/scan tool ($4,000 +). You had no old, good key for programming comparison (it's normally all done with the lock cylinder and key insertion timing), so you're probably electronically "locked out".
The new key (is it marked PK3 or some other stamping?) communicates with the ignition switch and theft sysem. It sounds as if the unprogrammed key has literally shut down the car. Actually, a normal sequence to prevent theft.
If the 1999 key system is NOT PK3, then your key has a specific value of resistor pellet in the shank. New keys must have the correct resistor value or the car locks itself down.
You should have two remotes, #1 and #2, as well as two black head keys and a gray head Valet key.
There may be some info in the owner's manual - keys, fobs, and anti-theft section.
I changed your thread title to be a bit more descriptive of your particular problem............ Welcome to the Funny Farm!!! :highfive:
You need to contact either an automotive locksmith or a Cadillac dealership. New keys must be programmed to THAT car using either an old, good key or a GM Tech-II program/scan tool ($4,000 +). You had no old, good key for programming comparison (it's normally all done with the lock cylinder and key insertion timing), so you're probably electronically "locked out".
The new key (is it marked PK3 or some other stamping?) communicates with the ignition switch and theft sysem. It sounds as if the unprogrammed key has literally shut down the car. Actually, a normal sequence to prevent theft.
If the 1999 key system is NOT PK3, then your key has a specific value of resistor pellet in the shank. New keys must have the correct resistor value or the car locks itself down.
You should have two remotes, #1 and #2, as well as two black head keys and a gray head Valet key.
There may be some info in the owner's manual - keys, fobs, and anti-theft section.
I changed your thread title to be a bit more descriptive of your particular problem............ Welcome to the Funny Farm!!! :highfive:
Re: I have tried everything I can think of, and nothing works.
I bought the car used, and I only got the one key with it. No key fobs either. I've tried everything that was suggested to try without having to spend money. Out of all of it, you're answer is the only one that makes sense. But, I do have only one question. Why would it run and drive for about a week with an improperly coded key, then just suddenly stop running with no warning?
I bought the car used, and I only got the one key with it. No key fobs either. I've tried everything that was suggested to try without having to spend money. Out of all of it, you're answer is the only one that makes sense. But, I do have only one question. Why would it run and drive for about a week with an improperly coded key, then just suddenly stop running with no warning?
Good question, and I don't have an answer - but the "Service Theft System" message in the DIC is an indicator of a problem.
Maybe there is a Diagnostic Trouble Code set in the car's built-in code reader/scanner/memory. Study the correct year/model section of the sticky thread (Deville main threads page) titled "How to pull codes". Practice, write them all down, whether each is Current or History. Then return to the sticky to open the link to definitions of all OBD-II codes. Decipher your found codes and post it all here. (Trouble codes for your series read out as a character and 4 digits - for example: P 0300, not PO300.)
Maybe there is a Diagnostic Trouble Code set in the car's built-in code reader/scanner/memory. Study the correct year/model section of the sticky thread (Deville main threads page) titled "How to pull codes". Practice, write them all down, whether each is Current or History. Then return to the sticky to open the link to definitions of all OBD-II codes. Decipher your found codes and post it all here. (Trouble codes for your series read out as a character and 4 digits - for example: P 0300, not PO300.)
My 99 STS had a key in a small vinyl pouch[ the size of a business card] in the owners manual. May just be a valet key. Maybe worth a look. It has no plastic head on the key.
----------
Copied this from my alldata manual
30 Minute RE-Learn Procedure
Use this procedure after replacing.
Keys/Lock Cylinders
Pass Key III Module
PCM (if necessary, see important above)
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF using a Master Pass Key III Key (Black).
Observe the Security telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn off.
Turn OFF the ignition), and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 3 two more times for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes.
IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the key information and/or passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the vehicle (the vehicle has now learned the key and password information).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs.
----------
Copied this from my alldata manual
30 Minute RE-Learn Procedure
Use this procedure after replacing.
Keys/Lock Cylinders
Pass Key III Module
PCM (if necessary, see important above)
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF using a Master Pass Key III Key (Black).
Observe the Security telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn off.
Turn OFF the ignition), and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 3 two more times for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes.
IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the key information and/or passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the vehicle (the vehicle has now learned the key and password information).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs.
If there's no plastic head on the key - then it's only good for opening doors and making duplicate keys from it.
Re: I have tried everything I can think of, and nothing works.
I don't mind that you changed the heading to something better than what I had stated. When I bought the car, I only got the one key with it. No key fobs, and no additional keys. The key is stamped with "PK3", and it never crossed my mind that I would be missing out on something so important.I did find a mechanic that is willing to try trouble shooting this issue, but I am on social security, and I just don't have the money to throw at this car. I was kinda hoping this might be something that I can fix for myself.
I don't mind that you changed the heading to something better than what I had stated. When I bought the car, I only got the one key with it. No key fobs, and no additional keys. The key is stamped with "PK3", and it never crossed my mind that I would be missing out on something so important.I did find a mechanic that is willing to try trouble shooting this issue, but I am on social security, and I just don't have the money to throw at this car. I was kinda hoping this might be something that I can fix for myself.
Other than "recognizing" new PK3 keys when cloning a good original, remote fobs, ignition switches, and theft unlocking must be done by a Cadillac or GM dealership OR by an automotive locksmith who has a GM Tech-II programming tool ($4,000+) - the particular vehicle's VIN is downloaded from GM and the car and its systems are re-programmed to that specific VIN data parameter base. Every one of these cars is differently programmed - to even swap the radio head unit or the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) requires reprogramming.
I know this is 20/20 hindsight, but a 1999 STS does/will require a LOT of expensive care and feeding. None of these Cadillac FWD Northstar cars is in any way, shape or form an inexpensive daily driver - especially if you must use the services of GM dealerships - or a Mom & Pop shop - frequently.
I know this is 20/20 hindsight, but a 1999 STS does/will require a LOT of expensive care and feeding. None of these Cadillac FWD Northstar cars is in any way, shape or form an inexpensive daily driver - especially if you must use the services of GM dealerships - or a Mom & Pop shop - frequently.
Re: I have tried everything I can think of, and nothing works.
Well, the car is now at the dealership. Assuming that it is the key, it's going to cost me $120 to get it fixed. After I get it back, I fully intent to sell it and get a car made before 1980. At least that way, I know this won't happen again. The mechanics at the dealership did agree with you that it is more than likely a key issue. So, I at least have that going for me.
----------
It is a PK3 system.
Well, the car is now at the dealership. Assuming that it is the key, it's going to cost me $120 to get it fixed. After I get it back, I fully intent to sell it and get a car made before 1980. At least that way, I know this won't happen again. The mechanics at the dealership did agree with you that it is more than likely a key issue. So, I at least have that going for me.
----------
It is a PK3 system.
I need help understanding dealership diagnosis. I had my car (a 1999 Seville STS) towed to the dealership, and back again. They told me the front and rear interface modules were out. They wanted $1100 to fix that. I started reading the paperwork they gave me when I paid the $120 bill. It said that power got to the starter, but it wouldn't crank. They started tapping on the starter, and it started up. Does that mean that all I need is a new starter?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
