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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(Fist off long time viewer i appreciate all the help everyone has done for me this is a great community here) I'll be replacing the fuel pump in my 1999 cadillac seville sls in 2 days from now. I have experience in removing and replacing fuel pumps but this one comes with a new wiring harness for one of the sensors on the new pump, so ill have to cut off the old sensor, stip the wires and connect the new sensor. Im not to experienced in wiring don't want to mess up and put my car ooc, so if anyone has any experience and/or tips I would much appreciate it.
 

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My 2003 Sonoma came with a kit like that to change the standard connection over. I'm sure they simply wanted to standardize to something they had on the shelf. I didn't like that idea so I researched my original connection and figured out how to unpin them. I then transferred the old connector to the new pump and avoided any splices. I cannot recall for sure but I think I carefully opened the crimped terminals and re-used them but soldered after crimping.

Do you know what style you have and what style they sent you? Another option, if you want the originals, is likely clipsandfasteners.com or Del City will have original housings, pins and seals.

Scott
 

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The original fuel pumps in many of the Seville/Deville/Eldorado Northstar cars had a square electrical connector with 4 small pins for the plug. The replacement pumps come with a heavy duty flat blade connector. The replacement pigtail gets spliced to the existing harness - coding and instructions included in the new pump box.

Here's the original square plug and pinout for my 2002 -

Rectangle Font Line Parallel Number


Here's the new electrical connector. There are still many original pump assemblies with the square connector on store shelves. It all depends on what's in stock as to what you get.
596041


Look at the possibilities for your year/model in RockAuto.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've read that the new one is supposed to surpass the performance of the old one, so do want to wire the new one. As for the type of connector its the same as the ones the guy below you posted. The old one is square and the new one is a flat connector. Also all the wires on the old and new connector have the same colors wires (purple, black, black/white and the grey) so it shouldn't be hard on figuring out which ones go where
 

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Daniel,
If the new connector is a heavier duty connector the original harness (vehicle side) could be unpinned and switched to the heavy duty connector using the parts they sent. Then you wouldn't need to splice and you could use the new style on the fuel pump side which came on the new pump.

I can however understand your reluctance to dive into changing the connectors. I've done it before and it's not hard once you learn the trick to unsnapping and unpinning...but it does seem they are all different and some are not obvious. I like the Delphi weatherpacks; simple, they seal well, and pretty obvious assembly but there are likely multiple versions of those now too. Almost every terminal I've seen has a shape like an arrow head so you can push them in but they will not pull out. You simply need to push those fish hook/ arrow head pieces toward the connector. Before doing that though you need to figure out how the plastic body snaps together. I'm not trying to encourage you to try something which you are not comfortable with; simply trying to explain how it's done.

Anyway if you simply cut and splice you need to make certain moisture doesn't get to the connection and second make certain the stiffer/larger portion doesn't end-up in a place where rubbing can occur. There are frequent posts on forums regarding blown FP fuses and at least one recent issue was a short due to a splice on top of the tank. Another listed fuse still blows when FP is unplugged. That more than likely indicates a short to ground in the wire (probably from rubbing or a poorly protected splice).

Scott
 

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IF you get the later heavy duty connector fuel pump assembly . . . .

The two connectors are TOTALLY different . You cannot unpin the old and stick the pins in the new. The connectors on the top of the fuel pump assembly are totally different.

You MUST cut the old connector off and splice in the new pigtail/connector supplied.

Look at some of the old and new assemblies in my supplied link. Click the little pictures or the INFO tabs for zooms and more pictures.

Airtex, "AC Delco", UltraPower and DELPHI are all the same assembly - all were OEM suppliers to "AC Delco" under contract. The new electrical connector assemblies did not get into the field until about 2005 or 2006.

A moisture-proofing trick is to use marine heat shrink tubing that has a hot melt sealant inside.

Who made this "AC Delco" fuel pump assembly bought at auction from the parts department of a closed Cadillac dealership in 2010 ???

Packaging and labeling Font Magenta Carton Flooring
 

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Submariner,
I tried to explain in my first reply that the pins/terminals themselves need to be changed as well as the connectors to do what I was suggesting. I don't like splices so I took everything apart when I did the job. Understand that sometimes they are difficult to avoid.

I was trying to give Delphi-Packard-Electric credit for the original design of the weatherpack (The multi-cavity with round barrels on the male end). I was thinking of it as an example even though the one I was thinking of was not pictured because I view them as the "mother" of anything I see with the rubber weather proofing in a plastic housing.

Maybe I shouldn't have suggested changing connectors/terminals but it seems like someone able to change a fuel pump would have the level of skill required to change the connectors.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[Update]
The pump replacement and rewiring where successfully done earlier this morning, everything wes pretty straightforward. I was pretty much worried over nothing, in not very confident when it come to wiring and on was just a little nervous on doing it on my own car, especially because in the cadillac the mess up one sensor and the whole car won't start. But all is good thank you for your help everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
[New update] I haven't driven it to much sense the pump replacement, because my sister got a new car and we just car pool to work, but I was driving it the other day and the check engine light came back on. I went and got it checked and it was the fuel pump again. I told the guy at autozone that I had just replaced it and all he could offer is a new one (luckily it's still under warranty) does anyone know what could be wrong?
 

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Your car has its own built-in diagnostic code scanner/memory/readout. Study the correct model and year sections of the sticky thread "How to pull codes", write them all down, decipher them using the link in the thread and post it all here.

The SES warning is on because there is/are engine performance or emissions faults, and those WILL set trouble codes.

FWIW, stickies are the threads at the top of the forum main threads page, marked with a push pin. They are timeless info for ALL owners of the cars covered by the forum.
 
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