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2014 CTS Performance, AWD 3.6L
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for an electrical diagram to help me understand how the window wiring is all related on my mom's cadillac. She's 84 years old, not in good health, and I believe the dealer is taking advantage of a situation.

Originally the driver side, rear window would go down under power, but would not come up. The dealer installed a new rear driver side motor, and a new switch $296, and another $290 labor.
The sheet indicates they found an internal short to ground and high resistance on the switch. So they replaced the left rear window motor and the front window switch that controls the rear window.

Came to around $800 for everything.

Now the driver window FRONT is doing the same thing intermittently. It almost always goes down, but doesn't always come up. How likely is it the dealer did something to create the issue we see now with the driver window not operating properly intermittently?

What could be the issue/problem, and would I be able to easily fix it myself?

The dealer will not fix this problem without an additional charge. A call to speak with the GM for help was passed to the service manager, and he insists they will not help other than to give her a discount on another repair. They are trying to tell me this is a short in the wiring harness. This is a dealer notorious for customer service falling well short of the intended mark, so I'm skeptical of this. Given the GM didn't have the professional courtesy to call me back directly to discuss the situation, I'm planning to simply take this up with the BBB and try to get her money back.

Thanks in advance for any insight and suggestions.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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68,551 Posts
I can't speak for the dealership or its work, but the window regulators, rocker switches and wiring harnesses (door frame entry points) are subject to failures. Commonly known here as the "Deville Drop". Not a hard fix with hand tools and some homework in Cadillac Tech Tips.

The wiring diagram would be in either a GM service manual set or in a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com. Maybe someone in here has the subscription - and the schematic might also be in Tech Tips and/or Electrical.
 

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2014 CTS Performance, AWD 3.6L
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Submariner for the quick reply. Unfortunately I don't have access to either of those resources. After shelling out $800 and still having the same issue (albeit with another window), it's still likely the original problem, whatever that may be. It's intermittent, a real challenge.

That window goes down without any issue consistently, but not always up. If I wait 10 seconds, it works. The insult to me is the dealer charged her $800 and is now trying to charge again. I think Cal Ripken would be extremely disappointed if he only knew.

I'm not going to get on my soapbox, but I've owned nothing but GM vehicles all my entire life with 2 exceptions. A Toyota Tacoma, and my wife who owns a Mitsubishi. Gotta tell you, neither of those cars ever gave me a single problem beyond normal wear and tear. By comparison, my GM vehicles never hit the intended mark for quality, always a problem, always an expensive repair. . It's sad.

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Related questions, would the amount of resistance found in a switch indicate bad motor, a short in the harness, or bad switch?
 

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98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
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7,345 Posts
97 to 99 Deville windows are wired as follows: all wires go to main switch(master switch) then to each door switch then to the motor. If either switch acts up the window gets wonky. Usually it is the master switch having an issue but since was just replaced I would look at the door in question. The switch is very easy to replace and cheap(not master as they run 50 used). I would buy a used switch and install it. The window motor are NOT know for going bad, a handful maybe I've seen. If the new door switch doesn't fix it I would bet the master is flaky(the really do suck in design and location). Any rain in window drips into switch electronics and corrodes them. I've replaced both of mine and one is getting flaky again so it's getting swapped soon.
 

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2014 CTS Performance, AWD 3.6L
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
This is the driver door, there are 4 switches. I can try replacing the switch, but which/where is a "master" switch? Dealer service manager told me they are not wired together in any way, which I suspected was entirely false. With the door closed, window goes down consistently. Won't go up, but if I wait a few seconds, it works and brings the window up. I'm not opening or closing the door, Very weird.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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68,551 Posts
The driver's door switch panel is the "master", and that's the door/frame wiring harness that gets the most open/shut wear.
 

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98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
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7,345 Posts
Sorry missed that its drivers frt acting up. Check wiring through door jamb also as Sub said the switch is main culprit usually, mine does that intermittently. When that window will not go up will others still operate?
 

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2014 CTS Performance, AWD 3.6L
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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry missed that its drivers frt acting up. When that window will not go up will others still operate?
Yes, just driver front won't go up until I wait a little bit, all other 3 windows operate fine.

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I will go take another look at the master switch. At this stage, I'd rather spend $80 buying the part than spend another penny with the dealer. I still suspect they took advantage of the situation, there is no indication otherwise.
 

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2006 DTS
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146 Posts
I have to say that I'm Keith's brother and know about this problem. My mother told me that the Cadillac sales manager actually said, "these old cars, the wiring in them get's dry, you have to oil the wires now and then." Unbelievable. I know of this window problem and I have had problems with the window not going down occasionally as well as the not going up. I have video of it as it wasn't doing it at first at the dealer. It was intermittent.

But as to the practices of this dealer, I too have had a major problem with them that they charged me for and I finally just got it fixed, by Merchant Tire. Merchant informs me that Cadillac could not have aligned my car as the camber bolts were ribbed and would grove into the strut mount and not be able to be turned to adjust the camber. Merchant had to put in two adjustable bolts at $60 to be able to adjust it. They said that the way the Cadillac dealer gave me my car back with it wobbling unsafe like it was, showed that they never got it aligned, or overlooked it which would be crazy for anyone that knows how to do an alignment. But I got billed for it along with a new inner tie rod they said I needed and diagnosis charge. Around $550! They also told me I needed a new control arm and one strut mount and I drove the car away. I put on two new strut mounts and two new control arms this week and the problem still existed. After Merchant aligned it with two new adjustable camber bolts, the car is back in alignment and drives perfectly the way it should. Ran me $817 to install two strut mounts, put on two new michelins to replace the two that wore down since January after the Cadillac dealer said they aligned it, go figure, it wore on the outside edge. (i.e. the camber adjustment) A simple camber bolt issue that my Cadillac dealer did not fix during a front end alignment. See my post here.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-dts-forum-2006-through-2012/650226-okay-heres-one-stump-you-all-2.html#post14149761

I can't help but wonder if I even needed the inner tie rod.
 
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