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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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Could there be something that's causing the battery to put out high voltage, or is that what the battery rating is?
Please read Posts #12 and #18 again.

If you're sitting in the driveway, doors open engine off, key: ON playing with stuff and pulling codes the battery voltage will drop RAPIDLY - and the fuel door and trunk WILL pop open. Low battery voltage.
 

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1997 SLS
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32 Posts
Please read Posts #12 and #18 again.

If you're sitting in the driveway, doors open engine off, key: ON playing with stuff and pulling codes the battery voltage will drop RAPIDLY - and the fuel door and trunk WILL pop open. Low battery voltage.
So then it's normal under those circumstances?
 

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It's not that common. Battery voltage has to get pretty low (damn near dead) for that to happen. I've never tried it, but I'd bet you could leave the key on and run the radio for an hour before you drain the battery low enough to start popping open fuel doors.
 

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1997 SLS
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32 Posts
It's not that common. Battery voltage has to get pretty low (damn near dead) for that to happen. I've never tried it, but I'd bet you could leave the key on and run the radio for an hour before you drain the battery low enough to start popping open fuel doors.
Well that's what's confusing: everything runs fine with it electronically, except the alarm, which hasn't worked properly since it came out of the shop. Other than that, it starts up fine, and all of the accessories work. I also don't leave anything on without the car being on...a lesson I learned by burning out a battery in another car back when I was traveling for work and using my car as an office. I don't have that problem with this car now.

This only happened when I was pulling codes, and I don't even remember how I did it, though I did it twice with the same process.
 

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Well that's what's confusing: everything runs fine with it electronically, except the alarm, which hasn't worked properly since it came out of the shop.
Hmm, factory alarm or aftermarket?
What was it in the shop for? There may be a clue there.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
GM,
So far I am not getting any codes whatsoever regarding the sporadic light in question, but can you tell me where these sensors are located, front/back, left/right? And if I were to go ahead and replace one, which is more likely to be the culprit? I'm thinking the left front.

Cheers,
Serge
 

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There are 4 wheel speed sensors, one on each wheel and integral to the hub & bearing assembly, but they are monitored so with no codes, I doubt that is your problem, but if you where to start replacing them anyway, it would simply be an expensive guessing game.
 

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For me the problem was LED 3157 tail light bulbs. Traction Control would come on when I turned the lights on and started driving. I test this scenario over a few months. I put the regular bulbs in and everything is fine now. My guess is its a voltage issue or something changes in the brake light circuit when the LED bulbs get power. I cant find anything in the Factory Service Manual that ties the Traction control to the Lighting system. Makes no sense.
 

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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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Makes perfect sense.

The rear lighting and brake light resistance is monitored for correct values. If a brake lamp filament is out of spec it sets codes and other messages. The TC, ABS, stability controls, body controls, engine controls all "talk" to one another. You mess with one system, others suffer.

The aftermarket cutesy LED bulbs probably don't look electrically "right" to the monitoring system. You're not the first - or last - to get this quirk.

Some Sevilles and Devilles suffer from chafed wiring at the left trunk hinge bracket - where the trunk lid harness exits the rail - that also causes TC and warning messages. Wiring fault.

Here - read your older thread on the subject - https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/1998-tc-light-comes-on-with-parking-or-headlights.1088436/
 
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