[Sergemaster]

GM,
I have a 1998 Seville STS, and the traction control light which suddenly seemed to be turning itself on and off, is currently in the on mode. The ABS light is off.
The car is running fine, just don't know where to start. I did some research online, and read that it could be caused by a bad module (which I cannot find), a speed sensor wire, exteneded calipher, etc. I did have the struts, rear rotors and brake pads along with a left rear calipher replaced this past June. Any idea what the issue may be?

Cheers,
Serge

 

[Ranger]

The most common cause is a failed wheel speed sensor, but your first step would be to pull the DTC's. That will tell you where the problem lies.

 

[basscatt]

YUP - as Ranger said - STEP #1 - ALWAYS - check for DTC's - Diagnostic Trouble Codes -
if you don't know how - go here -

How to pull codes (DTC's), list of OBD1 & OBD-II codes & definitions

To check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in the computer, turn the ignition on, then hold down the OFF and WARMER (for digital dash) or OFF and passenger-WARMER buttons (for analog dash) or OFF and "Info ^" buttons (if you have temperature dials) until all of the dash lights come on. The...

www.cadillacforums.com

post any codes you have -
ALONG WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS -

include whether they are C-Current or H-History -

for code definitions - go here -

CTS-CTS-V FAQ: Cadillac On-Board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (OBD-II)

here is a how-to video -

 

[Sergemaster]

Thanks Bass, Ranger!
Well I went ahead and pulled the codes, they were the following:

1574-H
1300-H
1064-H
1128-H

But this is the code that threw me for a loop:
ABS-1294

I do not recall if it was an H or a C following it, since I actually believe there was neither. Exactly as I wrote it down. But I could be mistaken.

Also, I notice that when I'm doing my daily serious long distance driving back and fourth on the GSP, it's off. But if I do some local driving on surface streets, like going a few blocks to pick up a pizza, it comes. on..

If it is the wheel speed sensor, whitch wheel is it located on? Plus, should I also purchase a new wheel speed sensor connector? I've priced the parts, AC Delco of course. Part number 22591939 for the actual sensor, and PT/786 for the wire connector. Would these be it if this is the issue? What are the actual man hours to rplace it as well?

Cheers,
Serge

 

[byrdman]

Thanks Bass, Ranger!
Well I went ahead and pulled the codes, they were the following:

1574-H
1300-H
1064-H
1128-H

But this is the code that threw me for a loop:
ABS-1294

I do not recall if it was an H or a C following it, since I actually believe there was neither. Exactly as I wrote it down. But I could be mistaken.

Also, I notice that when I'm doing my daily serious long distance driving back and fourth on the GSP, it's off. But if I do some local driving on surface streets, like going a few blocks to pick up a pizza, it comes. on..

If it is the wheel speed sensor, whitch wheel is it located on? Plus, should I also purchase a new wheel speed sensor connector? I've priced the parts, AC Delco of course. Part number 22591939 for the actual sensor, and PT/786 for the wire connector. Would these be it if this is the issue? What are the actual man hours to rplace it as well?

Cheers,
Serge

you missed the part where Bass said "WITH DEFINITIONS". There are several thousand codes and nobody has them memorized.

 

[bjc789]

And those codes should have prefix letters like B, C, P, or U.

MAY NOT be relevant but my ‘02 GMC gave a sensor code because my hub bearing was worn and it stopped reading the wheel speed due to excess clearance.

 

[byrdman]

And those codes should have prefix letters like B, C, P, or U.

good catch. I forgot that part. DTC's are a letter, followed by four numbers, followed by Current or History. Only P codes will set the SES light.

 

[basscatt]

good catch. I forgot that part. DTC's are a letter, followed by four numbers, followed by Current or History. Only P codes will set the SES light.

========================
Only P codes will set the SES light.
actually - only EMISSIONS RELATED "P" codes will set the SES light.

 

[Vladpryde]

YUP - as Ranger said - STEP #1 - ALWAYS - check for DTC's - Diagnostic Trouble Codes -
if you don't know how - go here -

How to pull codes (DTC's), list of OBD1 & OBD-II codes & definitions

To check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in the computer, turn the ignition on, then hold down the OFF and WARMER (for digital dash) or OFF and passenger-WARMER buttons (for analog dash) or OFF and "Info ^" buttons (if you have temperature dials) until all of the dash lights come on. The...

www.cadillacforums.com

post any codes you have -
ALONG WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS -

include whether they are C-Current or H-History -

for code definitions - go here -

CTS-CTS-V FAQ: Cadillac On-Board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (OBD-II)

here is a how-to video -

Basscatt, I'm sorry, I'm not understanding the directions at that link you provided. I've read it about 5 separate times. Maybe I'm just having a brain fart here....

I have a 1997 SLS, and there are no three buttons on the right-hand side of the DIC. So do I hold down the "Off" button on the climate control AND the large "Info" button on the center of the dashboard? Or is it the "Off" button and the passenger-side climate control?

Thanks!

My traction control light comes on every 30 seconds or so after I start driving, and stays on constantly. So this topic is important to me.

EDIT: Nevermind, I figured this out. For those with a 1997 SLS, hold down the "Off" button and the "Passenger Temp Warmer" (thermostat) button. Then use the "Off" button and the "Fan Speed Up/Down" buttons to scroll through the list.

On an interesting note, my car started doing things automatically....like testing the locks and opening the trunk and fuel door. I assume that's normal, if not a bit startling.

 

[Ranger]

On an interesting note, my car started doing things automatically....like testing the locks and opening the trunk and fuel door. I assume that's normal, if not a bit startling.

That sounds like low battery voltage.

 

[Vladpryde]

That sounds like low battery voltage.

Can't be. I had an Interstate Group 78 Battery (800 CCA) put in in February of this year.

 

[Submariner409]

Don't bet on it. A common indicator of low system voltage is oddball trunk and fuel door pops.

A fully charged "12 volt" battery will read 12.6 volts when disconnected from anything for a half hour.

......... and in these cars anything less than 12 volts is low voltage.

 

[Vladpryde]

Don't bet on it. A common indicator of low system voltage is oddball trunk and fuel door pops.

A fully charged "12 volt" battery will read 12.6 volts when disconnected from anything for a half hour.

......... and in these cars anything less than 12 volts is low voltage.

View attachment 572664

Sigh. And how do I test this to find out what it's producing? Will the "Info" screen tell me?

 

[Vladpryde]

Also, it only did all of this when I was trying to pull the codes. It doesn't do it on the regular. I just figured it was a self-test of some sort.

 

[Vladpryde]

By the way....any chance this could be a bad front wheel bearing? I'm watching ChrisFix on YouTube replace a front-left wheel bearing on a Mercury SUV, and his tell-tale signs were identical to mine: brake light comes on as well as the traction control light.

Back in February when the car was in the shop (before I received it)....surprise surprise....they recommended a new front wheel bearing. But of course my parents opted not to replace it.

 

[basscatt]

By the way....any chance this could be a bad front wheel bearing? I'm watching ChrisFix on YouTube replace a front-left wheel bearing on a Mercury SUV, and his tell-tale signs were identical to mine: brake light comes on as well as the traction control light.

Back in February when the car was in the shop (before I received it)....surprise surprise....they recommended a new front wheel bearing. But of course my parents opted not to replace it.

=======================
the speed sensors within the wheel bearings ARE monitored -
faulty sensors WILL set a code -

YES - a faulty speed sensor can confuse the ABS system
AND cause the ABS light and Traction Control lights to illuminate -

 

[Vladpryde]

=======================
the speed sensors within the wheel bearings ARE monitored -
faulty sensors WILL set a code -

YES - a faulty speed sensor can confuse the ABS system
AND cause the ABS light and Traction Control lights to illuminate -

Yep, I'm going to have to replace that bearing then. Nice. Swell.

Also, I just went out to do something, and the Info readout said that my battery was producing 16.4 volts while in operation. Is that the same as what it puts out when the car is off?

 

[Submariner409]

16.4 volts, even with a low battery and charging on the highway is 1.4 volts TOO HIGH.

A "12 Volt" lead-acid battery puts out 12.6 volts at full charge, disconnected from anything for 1/2 hour.

Our cars will normally start the engine at a DIC reading of 12.4 to 12.6 volts and, as the engine comes up to fast idle/driving it will ramp up to 14.1 to about 14.8 and stay there for some period of time as the alternator/regulator charges the battery. As the battery comes up to full charge and its internal resistance rises it "tells" the charging system to ramp down voltage and amperage to maintain full charge - usually 14.0 - 14.5 volts at an amperage rate (you can't see that) sufficient to carry the existing electrical loads.

 

[Vladpryde]

16.4 volts, even with a low battery and charging on the highway is 1.4 volts TOO HIGH.

A "12 Volt" lead-acid battery puts out 12.6 volts at full charge, disconnected from anything for 1/2 hour.

Our cars will normally start the engine at a DIC reading of 12.4 to 12.6 volts and, as the engine comes up to fast idle/driving it will ramp up to 14.1 to about 14.8 and stay there for some period of time as the alternator/regulator charges the battery. As the battery comes up to full charge and its internal resistance rises it "tells" the charging system to ramp down voltage and amperage to maintain full charge - usually 14.0 - 14.5 volts at an amperage rate (you can't see that) sufficient to carry the existing electrical loads.

Soooo.....16.4 volts is bad? And how does this explain the systems popping things open when I was pulling codes (which it only did it on a certain "code page")? Because it also triggered the horn and the defroster as I scrolled through, not to mention other things I'm sure. I just thought it was testing systems.

How do I fix this without replacing the battery? Could there be something that's causing the battery to put out high voltage, or is that what the battery rating is?

And note to self.....mechanics: NOT for me.

 

[Ranger]

The battery isn't putting out high voltage. The alternator is. Check you battery voltage with the key off using a DVM (digital volt meter). As Sub said, you should be in the mid 12v range.

P.S.
Don't assume that just because the battery is new, that it can't be bad. I've had them fail in 6 months and even have had 2 with a dead cell right off the shelf. Not common, but not unheard of.