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1998 Catera no start w/new cps installed help!!

1602 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Po Pimp
Car drove all day No problems, HAd to buy another used car after my husbands car broke a rocker arm. So bough friends Mercedes 300d. When out next day. NO START. After reading Many posts on NO-starts. I ordered the CPS and is installed. No Start. Checked the the fuse under the dash to the fuel pump, NO Power. Checked the Fuel pump relay. It is not engaging. POwer to one side not the other. I have jumped those pins and could hear the pump pressurize the system. It would hit a cyclinder then die. I then used 2 test lites. One on the relay control one on the pump die wire of the relay. So i was getting power for a moment to the pump for a moment then it turns off again. This did not happen all the time. Whenit did i would get that one cylinder kick then nothing.
So then i barrowed a scanner.....NO CODES....
reset codes, just in case NO codes/No start.

Recharging battery again for further testing.
PLEASE HELP :bighead:

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My catera was having a similar problem. Crank no start. Changed CPS even though I saw no code. Gave up and had a tow truck pick it up to go over to a friends shop. He immediately asked if I had the remote for the doors. I did not. He reached in the car, locked the doors, unlocked them with the key, got in and it started right up. Of course once he turned it back off it would not start tell he did the lock and unlock on the doors. My buddy is fixing it. I will have to ask him what he is actually changing. Try it. May not do anything but it did narrow down where this problem was coming from real quick in my case. To bad I was to stupid to think of this before I blew money on a part I did not need. I have no shop manual for this car as of yet and was not going to dig into a system like this blind. My case maybe a weird one but I figured I would share because it could help.
Changed the cps, Camshaft sensor. IT goes vroom once the dies. You have to take the battery off before it will do it again. tried taking of IAC nothing. I have even sprayed starter fuild into intake and still only does above.
Crank sensors tend to give you sometime to play with. Meaning they will not start and the after awhile they will.

Cam sensors usually cause stalling problems but start back up.

My friend who I referred to in the last post is a mechanic. He thought and had some ideas but after he talked to the dealership he decided this car was not something he felt comfortable working on. The dealership I took it to did not **** around at all with this car. Had it towed around lunch time. By the time they where going to close I got a call back the lady told me the thought they found the problem and would start on it the next day. They called me again the next day a little after lunch time and told me the car was ready. Could not actually get the car then. The next day when I talked to the service lady and told what a good job they had did. She actually sounded like she worked on the car. She said the crank sensor was not receiving a 12 volt referance signal. Loose wiring was actually the culpurate. Between the two tows and the dealerships labor it was still under $200 to be fixed.

I would not be afraid to bite the bullet on this one and take it in. You can always refuse work if they you are not comfortable with it. If any one else but the dealer had worked on this they would have just been guessing and wasting money. I already wasted $80 of a good CPS. Not to mention the two tows instead of just one.
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