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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled coded off my 96 threw the online diagnostic but can find what each one and the numbers next to it means three -38? Any help please.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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What is the build date of the car - on the driver's door edge sticker. The car may still use the old OBD1 protocol.


....... or you incorrectly entered the programming phase.

OBD1 section - How To Pull Codes (DTC's)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
Its built in 02/96 but heres the codes i wrote down on a piece of paper i forgot to post, trying to see why my car wont start and dont have spark
582160


And i also plugged in the code scanner under the dash and it reads p0102 its the only code but i think its because i left the home plate on tube that goes to the air box off
582161
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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Insert a hockey puck in that home plate hole and don't look back. All that plastic housing does is help make the engine quieter. You can delete the first base too but requires you to buy another tube from the throttle body to the MAF. I've even seen them mounted straight off the front of the throttle body with a k &n filter facing forward.
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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92 Posts
No spark, check the coil wire down to the Opti and the Opti wiring harness. That appears to be the most common issues. Then there is coolant leaking into the Opti from a bad water pump which causes all kinds of issues with the Opti and distributor cap. Lots of people change the Opti and still have the issue. There was a post here not long ago with similar issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited by Moderator)
Insert a hockey puck in that home plate hole and don't look back. All that plastic housing does is help make the engine quieter. You can delete the first base too but requires you to buy another tube from the throttle body to the MAF. I've even seen them mounted straight off the front of the throttle body with a k &n filter facing forward.
Yes im aware and dis this before, i just left it off because im still working on the motor so i think that's why rhe p0102 is showing

No spark, check the coil wire down to the Opti and the Opti wiring harness. That appears to be the most common issues. Then there is coolant leaking into the Opti from a bad water pump which causes all kinds of issues with the Opti and distributor cap. Lots of people change the Opti and still have the issue. There was a post here not long ago with similar issues.
Everything new just installed the coil, icm, and opti spark along with a new opti harness and im confused why i get no spark from the plugs and coil? Alll fuses seem good? And to mention it was not getting no spark before i changed these parts hoping it solved the problem but nothing, it was running then all of a sudden it didnt want to run the next day, im lost, i even tried another pcm and still nothing
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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92 Posts
Grounding wires under the hood especially to the block can cause issues as they can corrode and fail to provide a good connection. The box you would be looking for should be on the driver's side somewhere in the trunk, possibly attached near the wheel housing. It has to be grounded or the car may not run or if it does weird things with the lights and other electronics like the door locks. The reason I don't know exactly where is mine is a funeral car and the builder had to move it when they stretched the car. How I found out was I was stripping a 95 Cadillac funeral car and had removed all the grounds to pull the harness forward. Then I needed to move the car Ang weird things happened, like it wouldn't start, then it would but wouldn't stay running. Door locks kept locking themselves with the door open. Start with under hood grounds and work your way back
 

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The best advise I can tell you on the LT1 is you need to see if it has no spark only or no spark & no injector pulse.

If you don't have injector pulse & spark then it's most likely a distributor pick up problem.

If it has consistant strong injector pulse but no spark then it's most likely a ICM or coil problem.

Either one of those problems could include missing power, shorted / open wires, or bad grounds.
But again no spark & no injector pulse would be on the distributor pickup circuit.
And no spark but good injector pulse would be on the coil / ICM circuit.

The ECM could technically cause problems with either.
But you seem to have comunication so that's a good sign.
These ECM's are pretty solid, so I would doubt that.

Also when the key is turned on the fuel pump runs for a few seconds.
After that when cranking the fuel pump relay & pump should turn on again.
If it dosen't, in combination with no spark, then it's another sign of a bad distributor pickup circuit.

If I was to bet, it would be that you got a bad replacement distributor.
There's really a problem with the quality of distributor assembly & replacement optical sensors they use.
Also fitment of sme of the distributor parts is not always the best.
Such as the replacemt wire harness not making good contact with the optical sensor or the terminals slipping backwards in the connector.

Or perhaps a bad connection with the new cable it came with.

It could also be as simple as a fuse blown.

Another tip is you can test the distributor optical sensor without installing it.
Plug the distributor cable in.
Put your spark tester on the coil & noid light on a injector plug.
Turn the key on.
Rotate the distributor shaft by hand.
If the optical sensor is working everything electrically will start flashing, sparking, clicking, & running.

Finely most old optisparks can be cleand with brake clean & rebuilt with just a new distributor cap kit.
Most just fail because of contamination of the optical sensor.
Such as antifreeze or oil.
Many say they had the best mitsubishi sensor which probibly is not produced anymore.
Just make sure the bearing isn't too loose or it's not leaking oil inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Grounding wires under the hood especially to the block can cause issues as they can corrode and fail to provide a good connection. The box you would be looking for should be on the driver's side somewhere in the trunk, possibly attached near the wheel housing. It has to be grounded or the car may not run or if it does weird things with the lights and other electronics like the door locks. The reason I don't know exactly where is mine is a funeral car and the builder had to move it when they stretched the car. How I found out was I was stripping a 95 Cadillac funeral car and had removed all the grounds to pull the harness forward. Then I needed to move the car Ang weird things happened, like it wouldn't start, then it would but wouldn't stay running. Door locks kept locking themselves with the door open. Start with under hood grounds and work your way back
Im definitely going to look into this, i was messing with some stuff back there so possibly could messed with a wire?
 

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"How do you do the injector pulse? I heard you can use a long screw driver up to the ear and hear the clicks?"

Look to buy / rent / borrow a tool called a injector noid light.
It's a test light made to plug in the injector connector.

Can you use an ordinary test light?
I don't remember.
They take about 5 seconds to plug in, make a good connection, recomended tool, and are usually bright when lit.
Fumbeling trying to hold test leads on the connector while cranking is worth it alone.

Many times sold in sets to cover a wide range of cars.
Seen them for under $20 - $40 a set.

You could try to hear or feel if the injectors working.
It's easy to hear injectors if the engines not cranking or running.
But over the other noises it's harder.
Really the trouble is would it give you difinitite results.
 

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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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the 96 has a crankshaft sensor but not sure a bad one will stop it from running on these cars with opti.
 

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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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If you had a scan tool that told you live data you could see if it is reading RPM when cranking. That would help in what to look for next.
 

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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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Most of the early less expensive scan tools did not do live data. I am not sure if yours has live data. If it does do live data and go to RPM then crank it over it will show a few hundred rpm if everything is good. Then if it is giving a rpm it will be the coil, ICM side of the system. If no rpm it is the distributor or connections to it.
 
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