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Hi Im Happy To Be Here.lol.anyway I Have A Beautiful Black Deville Cont.anyway It Was Running Great,i Went To Turn On A Green Light And There Was No Brakes At All,the Pedal Was To The Floor,i Dont Know About Cars Much,being A Female,but I Did Check The Brake Fliud And It Was Empty.i Put Some Fluis Into It And You Could See It Running Out Along The Drivers Dside Under Neath.well,to Make This Short,i Ahd It Towed To 4 Different Places And They Say The Line Cant Be Replaced ,dur To The Fact Of The Air In The Abs.and They Have To Ahve A Special Tool To Bleed These Out,i Did Have It Towed To A Dealership,and They Want 2,000.oo.to Do This.plus Their Telling Me I Need Drums,rotors, And The Whole Nine Yards,imn Which I Did Not Have Any Brake Problems Before The Line Rusted Out,so Please Any One ,help A Woman In Need,lol,allso My 97 Deville Says Low Refrigerant And Compressor Off,i Added Coolent,but Still Doesnt Work,i Read Someplace Here I Have To Disconnect The Battery To Reset The Air Compressor?is That Right.please Advise Me On This Too,im A True Caddy Lady,,,,,,,,,thanks
 

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01 frontier , 89 Shelby CSX vnt
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well as for the 94 , it has 4 wheel disc brakes , if there is anything about "drums" int he estimate then nobody has really looked at the car. Where do you live ? if its a "salty" climate then you probably lost one of the lines that run fromt he front to the back , which will need replaced , and yes the ABS pump requires a little bit diffrent proceedure to bleed but its nothing exotic like the picture thats being painted by these butcher shops you at ....i really wouldnt expect anything over a grand to redo pads ,rotors and fix the lines that have rusted away ...

as for your 97 it needs refigerant , it might have also needed some coolant....but refigerant needs to be added by a regular A/C shop , the refigerant avaible at the autoparts store has additives that are harmful to our compressors ...the easiest way is to remove the battery cable for 30 seconds in order to reset the system ....
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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Refrigerant and coolant are two totally differen't things. Refrigerent is a gas, usually freon, and on your car its probably R134a. You can buy cans of the stuff at wal mart along with kits to put it in. The a/c compressor must be running when you put it in otherwise it won't go in. To get the a/c compressor working with low freon you have to go into diagnostics mode (search the forum for how) and first clear the code with the engine off, then unplug the low side sensor and use a paperclip or small wire to jump the two terminals on the plug. Now, you can start the engine and the compressor will come on, and you can add the freon. Unplugging the battery is one way of clearing the code, but it also creates a different code when you do that.

To tell you the truth, I don't know how to bleed the ABS pump (never had to), but I doubt its that hard. Have him tell you what the "special" tool is and post it up here, chances are I've seen it before, know how it works, and about how much they cost. Stonage would know more than me on this subject though.

My main input on this post is that if one of the two rear lines rotted out, the other one is probably not far behind.


Ohh yeah, one last thing :welcome: :wave:
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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Wait, i cant find anything special about bleeding the abs pump on All Data.

It just says this;

"NOTE : Pressure bleeding is recommended for all hydraulic systems. However, if a pressure bleeder is unavailable, use the following procedure.

CAUTION : Brake fluid damages painted surfaces. Immediately clean any spilled fluid.

  1. Remove vacuum reserve by pumping brakes several times with engine off.
  2. Fill master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid. Check fluid level often during bleeding procedure; do not let reservoir fall below half full.
  3. If necessary, bleed master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect master cylinder forward brake line connection until fluid flows from reservoir. Reconnect and tighten brake line.
    2. Instruct an assistant to slowly depress brake pedal one time and hold.
    3. Crack open front brake line connection again, purging air from cylinder.
    4. Retighten connection and slowly release brake pedal.
    5. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat until all air is purged.
    6. Bleed the rearward (nearest the cowl) brake line connection by repeating preceding steps.
  1. Loosen, then slightly retighten bleeder valves at all four wheels. Repair any broken, stripped or frozen valves at this time.
  2. Proceed to appropriate wheel first and follow set sequence according to Wheel Bleed Sequence . See: Wheel Bleed Sequence
  3. Place transparent tube over bleeder valve, then allow tube to hang down into transparent container, Fig. 210. Ensure end of tube is submerged in clean brake fluid.
  4. Instruct an assistant to slowly depress brake pedal one time and hold.
  5. Crack open bleeder valve, purging air from cylinder. Retighten bleeder screw and slowly release pedal.
  6. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat preceding bleed steps. Repeat these steps until all air is bled from system.
Copyright © 2005 ALLDATA LLC"

Ohh I see, they're trying to get you to buy them a pressure bleeder...​
 
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