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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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It don't look bad to me. I would buy it if the price was right. How much are they asking?
 

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The diferential brake lines look like they were replaced, probibly rusted out.
Underhood brake lines next to drivers exhaust manifold even rusty.

Some parts of the country it may be called rust free.
A rusty chassis increases repair cost, needed maintence, & down time.
Like a fuel pump will need a strap kit ordered / shipped & a trip to buy new hardware.
Almost doubeling the repair cost, more time chaising parts, & maybe a week down time.

I would price it more as a clean basic transportation with less then average miles.
Defenitly not as a classic low miles problem free car.
 

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As discussed recently on another thread compairing compleated listings on Ebay I came to this conclusion.
Mileage makes a small differance of $1550 for under 100k vs under 165k.
Because miles is only 1 factor of wear on these cars.
 

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2015 ATS Coupe
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Discussion Starter #24
Hey guys, so I took a look at the car in Ohio and I noticed the following.

The Bad

1) B-Pillar connection to body floor plan was going on one side. I could punch a hole through it if I wanted to. It is the T-section that you see when both doors are open, under the rear door hinges.
2) Car had a lot of surface rust on all suspension components, it was a seriously thick layer.
3) There seemed to be an oil leak that was collecting on top of the steering damper
4) Parking break broke while on test drive. I pressed the pedal and it was stuck. Then it wouldn't come back. I put it into reverse and it disengaged but light continued to stay on
5) One of the pulleys was rattling. All were rusted.
6) Both wheel covers were removed. There wasn't significant rust but the center of the fender was bending out towards me on both sides. Like the horizontal lip. I haven't seen that before. Usually its rusted right off.
7) Front wheel wells were rusted through and all mounting hole areas has bubbled on both sides. Not really cracked yet.
8) Seat bolts to the floor were fully corroded. Looked like underhood battery terminals lol.
9) One front headlight was cracked
10) When moving trunk mat, I found a little rust starting on the seam between the fender and the trunk floor. It was just starting on the left side. Right side was clean.
11) You could see slight rust around the sill plate covers.
12) Driver B pillar cloth was ripped
13) Rear vanity light covers were coming off (just glue)
14) Rear window seal by trunk was gone
15) Overall the blue cloth interior shows signs of yellowing, needs cleaning
16) Rear bumper chrome cracked around bumper guards - softly reversed into something?
17) Exterior chrome bubbled but not too bad
18) HVAC fan very loud - needs replacement
19) AC was not ice cold

The Good

1) Engine ran amazing, it started right up and was smooth
2) Passenger side footwell rust was minimal and just starting (due to AC water drainage)
3) Vinyl roof was in good shape
4) Front seats were great
5) Transmission felt fine
6) Brakes seemed fine
7) Steering felt great too. Steering wheel condition was great.
8) Dashboard has no rips
9) Rear seats were new!
10) Paint was great
11) Trim was great
12) Battery looks new - Starts great
13) Dash in great shape
14) Heating and Cooling worked okay (Though i have no idea what algorithm GM used to setup the HVAC settings. When I want heat the front vent dont work, when i lower the temperature they start working?

Car is sitting at Richland Motors in Clevland, Ohio for $3900.

I think the car can be saved and she was a beauty. I just dont have time for a project.

Sarosh

Fleetwood Richland.jpg
 

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The oil leak could be the front oil seal, distributor drive seal, or the water pump drive seal.
Trouble is the oil leaks in the front have been know to cause distributor problems.
Think the cause is oil foging up the position sensor.
It's not failed yet.
So preventive maintence of the water pump, coolant, front seals, cap, rotor, wires, & plugs wouldn't be out of the question.
Few hundred and a day if you do it yourself. Or maybe 30% of the asking price for a shop to do.

Parking brakes again are a rust related problem.
To do it right you would be looking at new cables, & probibly brake hardware with adjusters.
The backing plates get rusty & the shoes wear a grove on then.
Used to be able to get new replacements, I don't think so anymore.
So it would be make what you got work or seach for better at the bone yards.
It not replaced I would bet the wheel cylinders are bad too.
Next thing you know it's another day and hundreds in the rear brakes or maybe 30% of the asking price.

Certain parts that fit only that model are harder to find.
If one does hit the salvage yard the emblems, crome, clips, electronic dash, antenna, are the 1st to go.
 

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95 FWB 81SDV 96 FWB 94 Fleetwood
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It would be a project to take your time and fix everything before putting it on the road. Could take a month or two if you fixed a little each day. That's not being afraid to spend some money.. I would not spend more than 2K on a car like that. It sounds like the rear bumper is rusting trough. It is just about impossible to get another good one cheap. When I look at these cars the first thing I look at is the rear bumper.
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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Sarosh

Good job on giving that car a thorough looking over. I think you realize the visible things such as paint and interior looked good, but there were many issues underneath with rust. That's not good. You killed a day driving back and forth, but you go home with your $4K in your pocket. Being from the rustbelt like you have to kiss many frogs to find the princess. Keep looking, you'll find one when you least expect it. Watch CL from some of the southern and mid atlantic states.

I can remember seeing an ad in the local paper for a 1975 Cadillac Eldorado convertible from FL, selling for his mother.......$2500. I couldn't get there fast enough, about an hour from where I live. Long story short, it may have been from FL, but not for very long. Floors were all but non existent.

Anyways, good learning experience and next time, you'll know better what to look for.

Tom
 

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2015 ATS Coupe
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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks to everyone for bringing me up to speed. I am learning more and more about the cars every day. It was a great learning experience and it was also the first time I got to test drive the car properly. Took it on the highway and it was a blast to drive. I finally got the feeling that everyone talks about in terms of comfort. Truly feels like a yacht. Can't wait to find the right one! The search continues.
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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It sounds like the rear bumper is rusting trough. It is just about impossible to get another good one cheap. When I look at these cars the first thing I look at is the rear bumper.
I read this about rear bumpers, and now I'm on the verge of hoarding again. I have two FW's. the bumpers both seem good. I'm down south for 3 months each year and picked up one, 2 or 3 years ago. Now, I know where there is another and I am doing all I can to hold myself back from picking that one up, also down south. I guess for $50 it's probably worth getting, like money in the bank.

Tom
 

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Hey Cadillac Team,

I just wanted to lean on you guys/gals for some questions regarding a pending purchase. I found a car for sale in Ohio and have a deposit on it. Just wanted some input from the Cadillac Fleetwood gurus. It has a little more mileage then I wanted (106K) and is probably in a little worse condition (Ohio rust), but tell me what you think. Service records unknown but Carfax does show several visits.

I will be going to take a look. So far I am focusing on rust on the body but I was looking for some specifics. Thank you in advance for the help.

Link to some photos and video.


Carfax


Tell me what you guys think!
what do you have for engine is it 350 (5.0) liter or 4.9 both engine are bulletproof its a good car make sure the climate control and suspensions working take care .
 

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2012 SRX4 Premium
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OK, a few comments. I love this model car and have wanted one for a long time. Yet, these cars rust out bad. Since they have that wide chrome piece, you have two issues. One: It tends to trap moisture and Two: The quarter panel can be completely wasted underneath and you can't see it in a picture.

I had a similar car, a 94 Roadmaster. The way it is designed there is a pocket behind the rear wheel wells that collects salt and dirt. I suspect the Fleetwood does the same. My RM started to rust out big time after 13 years of midwest driving. Even though it was garage kept and washed religiously. Since selling it a few years back I've kept my eyes peeled for a rust free B or D body and have yet to find one.

If you really want one of these, you'd be smart to limit your search to states that don't use road salt. Also if you buy this car without pulling those chrome pieces or at the very least feel with your hand the backside and also down the trunk sides I won't feel sorry for you if you get a rust bucket. This car almost for sure has considerable rust. It is just this design hides it very well.

So good luck to you and hope you don't let your emotions over-ride your brain. This car is likely a hard pass just due to the part of the country it has lived in. Another issue is the Optispark. If it hasn't been replaced yet, you'll be replacing it soon and it's not cheap. I've yet to see an opti make it to 110k, they almost all fail in the 90-105k range. I've also read that the Optispark is no longer available, but not sure if that's true.

Lovely car, reliable and powerful. Just getting real hard to find one that isn't a rust bucket.
 

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1993 sedan deville
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This thread is one of the best I have read through .For anyone looking to buy . This is full of good info. for anyone who has bought it is good a comp. I know there are plenty of owners in here . I bought mine just last summer and now I feel very fortunate to have found mine in such good condition considering it lived its life in the sate of Maine for 77k miles.. After long search and getting to that place where one can step of the the rush to and from work and relax. I have had my share of rust buckets. Maybe for some one that has time and a desire to save that car it would be a worthy project . We all know its not just rust .Time does a number on things.
In comparison I bought a 93 Sedan deville for $3400 with 77K on the OD. With near zero rust anywhere the only damage is door slam chips at the top where it strikes the roof, a little seat wear drivers side no tears just that crackle look. The only rust is thin surface rust on the drivers frame rail . The other side has oil wash no rust [ leaking oil pan gasket] And lastly the heat shield under the trunk has rotted at the fastener and front edge . My challenge is to keep it this way.

The buyers task is to find these old but little used and well cared for . I have found also when looking supper low milage older caddies here Florida . But I wont pay 35K for it even if its show room. Its still old.
 

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Besides the road salt another cause for undercarage rust is parking on dirt.
Depending on the soil. If the soil is accidic, it's bad.
Moisture in the ground evaporates up to the bottom of the car.
Especialy when the metal is colder than the air such as mornings, moisture collects like a beer can.
The moisture contains acid from the soil & covers the metal parts.
Think that happened to mine.

The one in the pic and mine weren't enough to condem the cars.
Just adds to repairs, maintence, & protection costs.

What really brings the cars to the bone yards more often is just based on value.
Trouble is these cars have a limited following & price.
Not worth enough to justify a frame off, nut & bolt restroation.
 

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what do you have for engine is it 350 (5.0) liter or 4.9 both engine are bulletproof its a good car make sure the climate control and suspensions working take care .
A 5.0L would be a 305, 307, etc..
The only engine option for 94 Fleetwood would be the 350 5.7L LT1 aka gen II small block Chevy.
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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Rust belt cars, rust from the bottom up, cars from FL, rust from the top down. I've heard guys from FL say that, now that I have wintered down here for 7 years and a regular customer at the local JY's, what they say is true. I guess it must be a combination of salt air and sun.

What LV said is true, there is not a real high demand for these cars, just a few knuckleheads.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Rust belt cars, rust from the bottom up, cars from FL, rust from the top down. I've heard guys from FL say that, now that I have wintered down here for 7 years and a regular customer at the local JY's, what they say is true. I guess it must be a combination of salt air and sun.

What LV said is true, there is not a real high demand for these cars, just a few knuckleheads.

Tom
Would like to learn more about the kind of rust Florida cars see. Top down?
 

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Sounds like a parts car. I paid $500 for a similar condition triple black LT1 Fleetwood. Drove it home five hours, and took it apart. Broke my heart.
 

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Would like to learn more about the kind of rust Florida cars see. Top down?
I know all about rust from the rust belt but never knew of rust from FL. Probably a lot of guys here know John "sprocket". He's on the wagon forum, Impala forum and probably here. He's the guy who told me about it, he lives in the Ft. Lauderdale area. I guess it's a combination of the salt air and sun. It burns the paint right off and then it gets into the metal. It's probably real bad on the coast of FL. I've seen it in the JY's in FL. I'm sure it takes a lot longer than rust belt damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I know all about rust from the rust belt but never knew of rust from FL. Probably a lot of guys here know John "sprocket". He's on the wagon forum, Impala forum and probably here. He's the guy who told me about it, he lives in the Ft. Lauderdale area. I guess it's a combination of the salt air and sun. It burns the paint right off and then it gets into the metal. It's probably real bad on the coast of FL. I've seen it in the JY's in FL. I'm sure it takes a lot longer than rust belt damage.
I have seen a lot of Florida cars with paint that has been a victim of too much sun. It would definitely hinder the life of the steel underneath if you started to lose your clearcoat and paint due to sun damage. The body would have no chance at that point. Excessive salt in the air wouldn't help at all at that point. I am assuming this would go for anyone who has suffered a dent or scratch in Florida that went through the paint. Wonder how fast the damage would deteriorate the metal compared to the same out here.
 
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