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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 cadillac Fleetwood that was given to me by a family that I used to care for their grandmother and this car has 133,000 miles on it. I want to take good care of this car because I have never been given a car before. I have never owned a cadillac before let alone a classic. It is overheating and I have no clue wat to do please help me
 

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2014 ELR
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First step: change rad cap. It's actually not on the rad, it's on the tank on the left side. Top up the coolant to the line. Bleed it properly using the bleed screw on the top of the thermostat housing. Try it out. Still overheating? Confirm with the HVAC controls. Use the video in the FAQ up top to learn how to display the operating temps on the display. When driving, you should see the temps increase, then the thermostat opens and the temps decrease. Then, stat will close, and temps will come up again. You should be able to see if you have a stuck stat.

Get back to us after changing the cap/coolant top up/bleeding. We'll walk you through what to do next (like a thermostat).
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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I would also check the fans to see if they are both working correctly. You will see a electrical plug on the water pump. Disconnect it. Both fans should be working. If one or more of the fans are not working, you have a fan problem.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First step: change rad cap. It's actually not on the rad, it's on the tank on the left side. Top up the coolant to the line. Bleed it properly using the bleed screw on the top of the thermostat housing. Try it out. Still overheating? Confirm with the HVAC controls. Use the video in the FAQ up top to learn how to display the operating temps on the display. When driving, you should see the temps increase, then the thermostat opens and the temps decrease. Then, stat will close, and temps will come up again. You should be able to see if you have a stuck stat.

Get back to us after changing the cap/coolant top up/bleeding. We'll walk you through what to do next (like a thermostat).
Ok thank you, I will
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would also check the fans to see if they are both working correctly. You will see a electrical plug on the water pump. Disconnect it. Both fans should be working. If one or more of the fans are not working, you have a fan problem.

Tom
My fans are not working
 

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96 Fleetwood, 94 Fleetwood, 07 CTS, & 94 Caprice Wgn
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If you disconnected the plug on the WP, and the fans did not come on, you need to check the fuses, relays, wiring and fans.

Tom
 

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2014 ELR
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Between Tom and I, you've got about 40 years of combined LT1 ownership, we'll get you fixed up...

Fuses #7 and 8 and relays A and B in the underhood electrical center (AKA fuse box).

I just happen to have FSM book 2 next to me, lol



 

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Do you guys know why it still wont start after my friend replaced the water pump? And why is it still leaking by where the thermostat is at? I'm a girl so I am clueless when it comes to things like this, please help
 

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68 DVC, 96 FLTWD Brgm, 11 CTS Premium (two)
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Someone missed re-connecting something.

Does it crank over? Coolant might have spilled all over the distributor AKA the Opti-spark unit which is so brilliantly placed right below the water pump. This can ruin the Opti in no time.

Leaking by thermo? Poor gasket seal. Possibly wrong thermo. Was this done by a shop? make them correct it. If they spilled coolant all over your Opti, I'd make them replace that too. Those are pricey distributors.

You can add another 16 years of LT1 ownership to the mix. We're here to help.
 

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If the fans are not running, it WILL overheat whenever it is stopped for just about any amount of time. The two relays are identical, and are usually good. It is the softball sized Fan Motors that go bad and less often the wire connectors to them.

The fan motors are easy to find. You take the whole fan off, and undo the old motor from the fan, bolt the new fan in and re-connect it to the back of the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It tries to start but it just wont start and before this, it started right up. My battery was bad and I got another one but it still wont start, I will ask him to look at those. I'm just so frustrated with this car, it's been down a week now
 

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Was it overheating before the water pump was changed?
Was it just a guess a bad water pump & thermostat? Just throwing parts at it can make more problems & get expensive. Was the water pump leaking?
Is the oil milky looking?

If the engines not running I'm not sure if the fans would turn on when the coolant sensor is unplugged.

When cooling system work is done or there are leaks you can get air pockets in the cooling system.
The air pockets need to be bleed out. Hard to do if still leaking.
There is a bleader to get the air out on the top front of the engine.

The distributors being below the water pump, hoses, thermostat, & cooling system bleeder.
Some recommend covering the distributor during cooling system service.
I put a bleeder bypass hose that could drain back to the overflow.
If any of the parts were older it may have been the time to replace the cap & rotor.

The thermostat is pretty basic. Leaking from wrong part, damaged seal, not sitting right, loose bolts, or damaged surfaces.

For not starting I would first check to make sure all the ground wires and plugs to the distributor, coil, temp sensor, mass air flow sensor, air temp sensor, & vacuum hoses are connected and all intake hoses are tight. Anything that was taken apart, make sure it's connected.

After that I would wonder if coolant is shorting out the distributor cap or as some claim ruined the distributor.
An older cap & rotor should have been replaced with the water pump along with affected seals IMO.

Depending on how skilled the person doing the work is.
It may be better off paying a tow bill to a good local repair shop.
Because damage done by replacing good parts incorrectly only creates more problems.
 

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Post the part number of the thermostat that was installed.

Opti doesn't need replacing even if it got coolant on it, it is a sealed unit.
 

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Correction "should be a sealed unit".
The ignition cap and wires "should be water resistant".
But the older and more worn the more likely moisture causes problems in any distributor ignition system.

Honestly I the 1st thing to figure out is why it won't run.

If the poster lists the location perhaps someone is nearby that can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@LV_Cady yes it was overheating before I got the water pump replaced. I have never owned a Cadillac before so I am clueless here, tommarow I will take a video of wat it is doing and post it on here, I see an option for camcorder on here. Thank all u guys for trying help me with my car, yall are awesome and I appreciate any help or advice I can get. Here is a picture of her :)
IMG_20190717_171432_684.jpg
 

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Nice car. Doesn't look like Vegas so I can't look at it.

When you say it doesn't start I'm assuming you mean the engine cranks / turns with the starter but will not fire. If the starter is not turning the engine then let us know, because that's a differnet problem and you can skip the rest I wrote below.

Make sure every electrical connector is plugged in & hoses are connected.
Better yet unplug everything that was touched. Verify the terminals are straight. Then plug back in making sure it is a solid fit. 1 in 10000 chance a male terminal gets bent over when plugging in connections.
No extra loose ground wire.
Ignition / coil wire connected.
Intake hose system 100% put together and tight including top "home plate" & mass air flow sensor.
Battery charged.
Fresh fuel in the tank. The floats go bad where the fuel gauge dosen't read right. If there is any question to the actual fuel level or it's reading less the 1/4 tank then add a few gallons of gas to it.
Wipe off & dry as best as possible any ignition system parts that may have gotten wet.
Including coil wire, coil, distributor cap, & spark plug wires.

Try starting again. Don't try too long. Crank it maybe 1 or 2 times for 10 seconds.
Wha't it sound like? Cranks real fast, slow, or about normal. Does it make popping noises, almost start, on no sign of it starting?

If it doesn't start do this:
Look at the gauges. When you turn the key on to run (no cranking) the yellow check engine light should come on.
Don't think it's your problem, but it's one of the 1st basic checks that verifies the engine computer is doing something.

Turn the key off. Wait 10 seconds. Turn the key on (no cranking) and listen for a wine / hum noise from the fuel take under the trunk. Sometimes you can hear it from the drivers seat with the door open. Other times someone else needs to get their ear under the back bumper & listen when the key is turned on.

If that makes noise the fuel pump is at least trying to work. Normally a shop would check the pressure, but if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge we'll skip that for now.

The next thing to check is to see if there is spark, checking at 2 different spark plug wires. If you don't understand this then just skip this step for now. Not doing it right will get someone shocked or give incorrect results.

The next would be to read the engine computer (ECM) codes.
Used to be able to do it with a paper clip. GM stopped programming in this feature around 1993.
IDK if it can be done on the 94-96 Fleetwoods.
A shop would plug in a scan tool to check for engine codes and check the sensor readings to look for something out of spec. This is a tool that can find a sensor that's not plugged in or reading completely wrong in a minute.

Without a scanner, fuel pressure tester, or good spark test there is something else to try.
I'm not a fan of hap hazard guessing but with limited resources try this.
Unplug the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor then try to start.
If no help then plug it in and unplug the coolent temp sensor & try starting.
Next would be to plug it back in and try unplugging the Air Intake Temp sensor.
Still no start, plug it in and unplug the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
Don't forget to plug it back in if it doesn't work.
Unhook the battery for a minute after these tests to clear out codes set.
The idea is the computer is more likely to get the engine started with a missing sensor reading verses one with false readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a 94 cadillac Fleetwood that was given to me by a family that I used to care for their grandmother and this car has 133,000 miles on it. I want to take good care of this car because I have never been given a car before. I have never owned a cadillac before let alone a classic. It is overheating and I have no clue wat to do please help me
update* hey guys here with an update, there was a loose connection with the opti spark or something like that, I drove it a lil and it was fine but today it was jerking on the highway, any clue wat might be wrong ):
 

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I have had many of these cars and still have 3 on the road now. I always change the cap and rotor , spark plugs and wires at 100K miles. If these have not been changed I would think by now it could have some misfiring that could cause some jerking. Do you know if it has ever been tuned up?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As far as I know the lady that had this car before me said they never had problems or mechanical work done on the car, so im guessing since i got it, is when things started to wear out on this car. It has 133k miles on it. Thank u I will have my friend check those for me and u have 3 or these cars on the road? So they are good cars? I'm a lil frustrated with this car lol
 
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