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1994 cadillac STS, nothing but trouble so far...

10806 Views 108 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  rockybalboa11


since i know you guys love pictures :)

anyways, about two months ago, i picked the car up from a wholesaler who needed some start-up money for his dealership. $2600 with the service ride control light on, 79,000 miles. took it to the dealership, turns out all the electronic parts are dead--$3500 to replace. decided to look at my options, and found strutmaster conversion kits online. $650 all the way around, aside from coil springs in the rear.

get it all installed for $300, and everything is going fine, however i can tell the springs in the back are sagging, as one side is sitting lower than the other by about an inch. still an awesome deal!

about a week later, the car begins overheating as i'm driving down the highway. let the car cool down, take a peak under the radiator cap and see that there is a huge lack of fluid. start it back up to get it off the highway and to a gas station. hm! i know the car hadn't been driven much and must have sat for a while. attempting to be optimisic, i fill it with water, put the cap back on and continue on my way. a mile down the road the light starts blinking again.

get it towed to a mechanic, and at first he only replaces the hoses. still getting up there in temperature as fluid continues to leak so he goes ahead and replaces the radiator. $500. (so far we're at $2600 + $1500 in repairs)

a few days later, i'm driving down the street and come to a stoplight. just sitting there, the car begins to rumble and jump forward. problem ceases. as time progresses, the problem becomes more and more apparent, and i'm guessing there is some type of vacuum leak.

guessed correctly, and it turned out to be the vacuum port which sits atop the manifold. got the wires and plugs (lifetime LOL) changed as well. another $400 or so dollars. (now at about ~$4500 in less than a month).

fastfoward about another week. that inch difference in the rear is really beginning to piss me off, as is the fact that it is about 2 inches when it is parked on uneven ground--but i really don't want to drop more money on my card.

as i'm driving down the street, i begin to hear a very distinct clunk as i make turns. really, really sounds bad. take it to the mechanic yet again, and have the front swaybar replaced. also got the coil springs done, but to my surprise they were $160 a pop. also got an oil change as it had been almost half a year since it had one by looking at the service date on the sticker, even though i was still 1500 miles shy of the mileague due date. another $700 spent.

now the car is sitting like a funnycar at the dragstrip in the rear with the new coils and i'm riding it like who even cares at this point. as long as it drives i keep telling myself.

well, unfortunately, everytime i start the car up i'm getting that same rumbling & shuttering i had when the engine was misfiring. however, it smooths out as i drive. my guess: fuel regulator related.

turns out i'm right yet again--or am i? have the regulator replaced after mechanic says the same, as he pulls off the turtle shell & gasoline flows. also have the transmission flushed. $400.

now, i start up the car the other morning and it STILL rumbles and shakes as i sit idle. smooths out as time progesses. only thing that fixes it is to throw it into park and let it sit for a second while it shows its symptoms. my guess is that the a/c compressor might be freezing up and thawing out. i honestly have no idea but i don't want to throw any more money at this thing, especially with the shuttering being so intermittent and random. i'll just have to ride with the a/c off.

any guesses?
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kept giving me "spam defense" errors

just tried changing out some words here and there on each attempt :p

turns out the site doesn't like myspace (where pictures came from) or something
Now for a little free Monday morning quarterbacking:

1. wholesaler either knew or SHOULD HAVE KNOWN how bad this car was. That is his job--to assess cars and buy the good ones. He unloaded it because he ran a tape on all the suspected repairs.

2. Next time you buy a car, here are my recommendations:

a. buy from some old geezer or geezeress. Grandparents ALWAYS maintain their cars and usually at dealer. You can go there and get a copy of maint records.

b. buy an older car with 20k or 30k on it, especially if you have the maint records.

Good luck.
any suggestion on the rough idle ?

i mean, none of these problems pulled codes and/or occurred at the time of purchase--so i'm not 100% sure on how the guy i bought it from would be able to forsee these things happening.
b. buy an older car with 20k or 30k on it, especially if you have the maint records.

Good luck.
IF you can find one thats at a reasonable price. I refuse to overpay for low mileage, especially since these cars need to be driven on a regular basis. I think the geezer suggestion is actually more important, as are the service records. Id be suspicious of a 94 anything with 20000 miles on it, and there beterr be proof its not just because it was driven 20000 hard miles in 2 years and then shoved in a garage after someone died to fall apart.
aside from speculation on how i should have gone about purchasing my car (where is this pessimistic anger in all of the other "my car has problems" threads???)

would you guys pin a rough idle and/or rpm jumping to the a/c freezing/thawing

i do hear a certain fan noise when this problem occurs

what i can't figure out is why putting the car in park stops the problem, if only for a second or two
aside from speculation on how i should have gone about purchasing my car (where is this pessimistic anger in all of the other "my car has problems" threads???)

would you guys pin a rough idle and/or rpm jumping to the a/c freezing/thawing

i do hear a certain fan noise when this problem occurs

what i can't figure out is why putting the car in park stops the problem, if only for a second or two
Because when you put the car in park the RPMs raise for just a moment due to the load of the driveline being off the engine, then the engine settles back down into a normal idle. It also idles at a lower RPM once you put it in gear, which will really make any engine abnormalities particulatly present.

You need to pull the codes off your car so we can try to determine the problem. Rough idle could be anything from a bad ECM to blown headgaskets. Search here for "how to pull codes" and get the procedure for your model year. Then post the codes.
there are no codes. as i said, it isn't pulling anything. even at the mechanic with their diagnostics, nothing.

p.s. as i said, it is extremely intermittent and only seems to be a constant when the car is first turned on. lol @ every problem a cadillac has being a blown headgasket on this forum
after reading through some threads about rough idle at startup, i do apologize for throwing out your idea on the pre-cursor to a blown headgasket playdrv.

seems as though that is a huge issue and a tell-tale sign.

i let the car sit for about 4 hours, and just took it out with my brother in law, with the a/c off, and nothing. smooth as can be. heard some fans blowing at the first stop sign (held the car there for about a minute, maybe more), but they shut off. second stop sign, nothing. third, nothing. coming into the driveway, nothing.

is there any truth to the a/c freezing up and causing the engine to rev/shutter? i want to believe my mechanic knows what he is talking about, as he did come from a lac dealership.

and again, i've had the plugs & wires changed, as well as my injectors cleaned. radiator has been replaced recently.
Try the ISC motor. If the AC is on and the ISC is not compensating you would get the rough idle and fans running. Much cheaper than head gaskets.
also, does running 89 have any affect on how the sts would idle?
also, does running 89 have any affect on how the sts would idle?
Unless your car is specifically labeled "Premium Unleaded Fuel Only" like the 4.5 and 4.9 motors, it should be able to cope with whatever you feed it.
'tis labeled :p

but i thought the northstar in the STS was a 4.6?
'tis labeled :p

but i thought the northstar in the STS was a 4.6?
The N* has always been a 4.6 - but in later years they cracked the code on how to get them to run on any octane. My 99 STS does not have the "Premium Unleaded Fuel Only" label on the gas gauge. My 90 CDV with the 4.5 did have the label. So in theory I can feed the STS anything 87 and above and it should run without problems. However, if yours says it on the dash, that's what you should feed it. My bet is still on the ISC as your problem though.
I have 94STS and yes it needs premium gas. Put middle grade in there one time, and it ran like shit. Next thing I knew it needed a tune up at only 60k miles.

Feel for you with all your problems, I am going through similar situation. Yes this car can eat you alive financially.

Dumb question, but did you check to see if all the tires are the same size?
yeah, all the tires are the same size/rating. the fronts are off about a little because of the tread but thats it.

also, took the car out this morning w/ the a/c off. there was the rough idle again >:-|

took it to firestone and got a block test done for free. they told me there no traces of any coolant, oil, etc. in the cylinders and i should be fine. they gave me some throttle bottle cleaner for free, and i suppose chubby may be right about the ISC. but i honestly don't feel like throwing any more money at this car and not being 100% sure the problem will be corrected. but, just out of curiosity, whats the cost on that?
cleaned out the throttle body

driving it down the street, and what do you know ...

the rear swaybar went bad

clunk. clunk. clunk.

sigh
Sway bar bushings aren't too expensive. I don't know about the ISC for cost - I'd try a few yards first since its probably $$ at a dealer.
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