Cadillac Owners Forum banner
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
yeah i did my spark plugs the other day let me tell you i was laying across the engine and shit. lol. i checked all the hoses and stuff today they all look kinda fresh, nothing torn or too dirty. the label is there and it's clean so i'll look around. i guess i just have to do the compression test and then start replacing hoses cause it's there but it's gotta be really small. i can't hear it over the engine and it doesn't breathe unless i press the throttle just right.

yeah you know you could be right because the EGR valve seems to be one of the older parts on the car. there is a lot of stuff that really needs to go on it but i'll get to it. i'm gonna look at it all more tomorrow cause i have a friend to help :)

so i guess if it is okay to run a drill through there that i could ream the stacks a little bit bigger. i wonder if that would make the car happier? i don't really understand every part of an engine yet.
 
i don't really understand every part of an engine yet.
Could've fooled me! :thumbsup:

Think about getting that FSM. What ever you do don't rely on a Chilton's or a Haynes. They do little to really help. One of the moderators today posted that they are not much better than bird cage liner. Very True, lol!
 
Those Haynes manuals may help if you can't find the oil drain plug:D
Nah! the Haynes doesn't even cover that, steelybill. About all that it is good for is to absorb the oil and wipe it up after you remove the drain plug. :histeric: :highfive:

:shark: Now that I think about it, I'd even have second thoughts about using it for that.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
the only thing i use the chiltons for is if i need to know what something looks like or i can't find it. lol. i learn the most when im trying to take something off and i have to go through the 50 parts in front of it. im going to get that FSM. but it's 3 days until payday and im completely out of gas and cash :(

so i noticed that when i am trying to start the car that if i give it a little gas it won't take 50 turns to start. what could that be about? should i check my fuel pressure? or could that be hinting at where my vacuum leak is? the fuel lines in the engine bay look okay but i don't think i found them all.

i also noticed that the charcoal can in the car is the stock one so i think i should change it? im not actually sure what it does but i know charcoal is used as a filter for some things
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
oh yeah and i checked with my dad, he said that reaming the stacks in the intake bigger shouldnt hurt anything and might even help a little bit but id like a second opinion about that. does anyone know?
 
Your car should have 45-50 psi fuel pressure.
On your Fuel Pressure Regulator take the little vaccuum hose that goes to the throttle body off and inspect for gas leak. There should not be even a drop. If there is gasoline there you will need to change it out. That would explain the vacuum leak and the slow 50 crank start.. Lots of threads about that one. Common problem.
U could check fuel pressure also with a gauge but if it reads low, again either the FPR or fuel pump is a problem. My money is on the FPR if it is below 45-50 PSI

The charcoal canister is part of the EGR system, probably would love a new one but IDK, I'd think that is the least of your worries right now. Check for DTC again to see if the EGR is still throwing a code.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
well now this is starting to make sense because the computer says i get 24-28 mpg highway but it seems like a lot less because it'll say i used 2.4 gallons but my tank meter will says i lost 4. its driving me crazy.

also i was thinking about the reaming the stacks thing. if i ream them too big will the engine have trouble pulling air and things through them?
 
you can ream them down to the brass metal but don't go farther than that. Lol! get ALL the crud off with that drill bit. but remember the EGR valve itself maybe so gunked up it is stuck. I had to remove mine while I had the fuel rail off. Otherwise, it's pita to get off. but whew! was it dirty. The pintle was clogged but once it was cleaned the pintle spring was all okay!
Hate to say this but you may also have some leaking FI's. if your fuel center is off from the actual mileage.
 
Don't get ahead of yourself just yet. one thing at a time is best. Question: when you replaced the spark plugs, did you notice if any had wet fuel on them? That was how I found the 2 in my rail that were leaking, the threads were wet with gasoline and of course the obvious smell.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
no they were dry. some had what looked like residual oil and all of them were rusty red. no gasoline smell or anything either. i had let it sit all night before i changed them though. i'll probably pull them out if i get home today if that's a fast way to find out. i'm really thinking and hoping that isn't the problem
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
okay there was this thing behind the throttle thingy which had a hose which led to a little black box with a power thing on it, which had another hose that led into the left hand side of the throttle thingy. im hoping that was the FPR. it was dry. i also pulled the wires on a couple of cylinders at the cap and it didn't seem to make a difference. i pulled 7, 5, 2, and 8. i didn't really rev the engine though. im getting a new oxygen sensor this week and im hoping that will help because when it is cold it runs really well.

also, if i get a new ecm do i have to buy a stock replacement? or do they make better ones that will be happier with my old engine?
 
okay there was this thing behind the throttle thingy which had a hose which led to a little black box with a power thing on it, which had another hose that led into the left hand side of the throttle thingy. im hoping that was the FPR. it was dry. i also pulled the wires on a couple of cylinders at the cap and it didn't seem to make a difference. i pulled 7, 5, 2, and 8. i didn't really rev the engine though. im getting a new oxygen sensor this week and im hoping that will help because when it is cold it runs really well.

also, if i get a new ecm do i have to buy a stock replacement? or do they make better ones that will be happier with my old engine?
I am afraid that was not FPR.
 
Quite right! Don't waste your breath and expend dangerous toxic CO2 (AL Gore is retarded!) say it with a pic. This one is the Throttle Position Sensor, the one that threw a code early in this diagnoses at the beginning of the thread. (I just had my ginko tea and remembered! duh! lol!) Yep, it's the little black thingy on the rear of the Throttle body that controls the throttle plate (butterfly) Gee could this be the problem????
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #39 ·
yeah. i ran out of money so i haven't wanted to touch anything i can break. lol

but i noticed that when it's idling if i put some intake cleaner in the butterflys and even tap the head. i mean, a tiny itty bitty little half second spray. the car dies. so maybe the TPS and the ICS need adjustment. now this is probably something i can do when im flat broke so i was wondering if you guys could run through the process with me that would be great. i know how to pull codes but i don't know how to bring the car into diagnostics mode or any of those other neat features. i'd some point i'd like to see how hot it's running also.

:D
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top