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5K views 38 replies 5 participants last post by  daedalus__ 
Your model the ECM is called a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) There is also, the BCM (Body Control Module). As you can see from the codes, the DATA line between them is a problem. It could all be intermittant wiring and dirt. Make sure all GND points are Clean and tight.

E00 = START OF CODE DISPLAY SEQUENCE
E39 = VCC engagement problem-
E47 = BCM-PCM Data Problem
E52 = PCM memory Reset
E70 = Intermittent TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

..F F47 = HISTORY - LOW REFRIGERANT
.F.F F47 = CURRENT LOW REFRIGERANT
.7.0 .8.8.8 = end of codes

As you can see, A/C needs some FREON.
The rough ride may be due to faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
and then there is a possible problem with your Trans Clutch slipping. Lots of Diagnostics involved with that in the FSM.

Consider getting a FSM on Ebay if you want to start doing your own work, otherwise you will forever be in the dark, just guessing. Compression check is not going to solve the TCC/VCC problem. You will need to get a good VOM to help you check the wiring to and from the BCM-PCM as almost all diagnostic charts call for voltage and resistance readings at certain points in the connectors, etc.
I can help you some since I do have the FSM for your model but you will do better with your own copy. Start with the TPS, check the wiring to make sure it is plugged in properly and clean the throttle body with a toothbrush and some solvent for that purpose. Most of all, have fun.:highfive:
 
Agree. One of the most important grounds is on the engine block by the starter.
And that one is the lallapalooza to make sure is "clean and tight". Dutiful to Murphy's Law, the hardest, and filthiest one to access, covered with engine grime oil and road dirt. Lovely!. Even damn near impossible to access with a wrench. What a genious the GM guy who put that into the design. :thepan:
 
The whistle may be from a climate control vacuum line disconnected or broken. that is where they run from behind the glove compartment. Something to do with that low refrigerant problem maybe.
 
I hate to say this but if those tubes (EGR stack tubes) are that gunked up, chances are so is your EGR valve. So maybe while you are at it, that should be removed and it can be dry scoured (no liquids) and checked, too. Also, the FSM says to clean the stack tubes with a 11/32" drill bit if you just "happen" to have one lying around. It scrapes the sides a little better than a "coat hanger", but whatever works for you. Then there is the problem of loosening up all that gunk and then having it clog the EGR valve on it's way out. With the EGR removed however you can just blow the stuff out with an air hose to get rid of it before you start it up. Your car is going to love you for all this cleaning you are doing.
 
All the vacuum hose "circuit" should be on a label under your hood somewhere like near the radiator. it is possibly covered with dirt and if you start wiping away you'll find it. Just check all the vaccuum hoses visually to see if they are cracked and falling apart. Anything that is not a wire or clearly a water hose or A/C is probly a vacuum line. Also doesn't hurt to do the compression just for your peace of mind. FYI, I got a good deal on the screw type Gauge, with extra fittings, for $25 on sale, used it once for all cylinders and that was all. LOL! God was it a B--ch getting at those 4 cylinders next to the firewall. Houdini had nothing on me. But at least I was happy to know all cylinders had good compression.
 
yeah actually i have an 11/32" bit at work I just used it yesterday :)

would it be a bad idea to stick a reamer in there? i don't really know what will happen if i open the stacks up? i'll take the thing off and ream it to .345" lol
The FSM also states "be careful not to drill through the intake manifold" I guess they intend for you to use the drill with it if you have the electricity handy, but I just used it manually to ream it.

ONE MORE, if you do end up taking off the EGR, you'll need a new gasket for it and like really clean the mating surface where it seats down to clean metal. In fact,if the current gasket is too worn out already, that could be where your vacuum leak is. Just a thought.
 
i don't really understand every part of an engine yet.
Could've fooled me! :thumbsup:

Think about getting that FSM. What ever you do don't rely on a Chilton's or a Haynes. They do little to really help. One of the moderators today posted that they are not much better than bird cage liner. Very True, lol!
 
Those Haynes manuals may help if you can't find the oil drain plug:D
Nah! the Haynes doesn't even cover that, steelybill. About all that it is good for is to absorb the oil and wipe it up after you remove the drain plug. :histeric: :highfive:

:shark: Now that I think about it, I'd even have second thoughts about using it for that.
 
Your car should have 45-50 psi fuel pressure.
On your Fuel Pressure Regulator take the little vaccuum hose that goes to the throttle body off and inspect for gas leak. There should not be even a drop. If there is gasoline there you will need to change it out. That would explain the vacuum leak and the slow 50 crank start.. Lots of threads about that one. Common problem.
U could check fuel pressure also with a gauge but if it reads low, again either the FPR or fuel pump is a problem. My money is on the FPR if it is below 45-50 PSI

The charcoal canister is part of the EGR system, probably would love a new one but IDK, I'd think that is the least of your worries right now. Check for DTC again to see if the EGR is still throwing a code.
 
you can ream them down to the brass metal but don't go farther than that. Lol! get ALL the crud off with that drill bit. but remember the EGR valve itself maybe so gunked up it is stuck. I had to remove mine while I had the fuel rail off. Otherwise, it's pita to get off. but whew! was it dirty. The pintle was clogged but once it was cleaned the pintle spring was all okay!
Hate to say this but you may also have some leaking FI's. if your fuel center is off from the actual mileage.
 
Don't get ahead of yourself just yet. one thing at a time is best. Question: when you replaced the spark plugs, did you notice if any had wet fuel on them? That was how I found the 2 in my rail that were leaking, the threads were wet with gasoline and of course the obvious smell.
 
Quite right! Don't waste your breath and expend dangerous toxic CO2 (AL Gore is retarded!) say it with a pic. This one is the Throttle Position Sensor, the one that threw a code early in this diagnoses at the beginning of the thread. (I just had my ginko tea and remembered! duh! lol!) Yep, it's the little black thingy on the rear of the Throttle body that controls the throttle plate (butterfly) Gee could this be the problem????
 

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