1991 DeVille - coolant leak from right side of engine...

12031 Views 29 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Tennesseestorm, Nov 29, 2015

Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · Mar 23, 2015

1991 Sedan DeVille - 4.9L, 62K miles...

A few weeks ago I noticed a drip or two under the right side of my engine. I thought it was power steering fluid at first (I had mentioned that here on the boards back then), but turns out it is antifreeze. There are times after I park it, I do not see any drips at all under it, then there are times that I do. I have noticed that there is coolant pooled up on the back of the motor about 1/2 way down in a little cavity on the engine under the alternator area. (I will try to get pics tomorrow). Someone said it could be a hose, but I do not see any coolant hoses in that area. Sounds like either that or a new water pump is in order. I bet that is fun to change... so fun that even the FSM doesn't mention how to replace it. :suspect:

*Also, when I FIRST turn off the car I smell fuel on the right front side of the engine, but there are times you really have to put your face near the power steering pump/belt tensioner area. I have looked and looked for leaks and do not see any and after about 5 minutes (and the engine cools) the smell is completely gone. I know that there is a fuel injector and fuel rail near that area, but again, I see no leaks, it is all dry and these fuel injectors are new. I really didn't smell this until I had put on a new thermostat and now the engine is running hotter (the old thermostat was stuck open). Is there some sort of fuel vapor tube or something on that side of the engine that may be putting off these fumes? I may just be paranoid and it is normal.

I do have the car for sale, I am about over all of these problems, but would like to get it a little more up to par before letting it go, or should I let the new owner take care of it? I am already losing tons of money on it anyway, but I have put about 4000 miles on it.

Thanks in advance.

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bigm57ict

· #2 · Mar 23, 2015

My first thought is water pump gasket. The water pump cover is quite large and there is a lot of potential for leaks

I would borrow or rent a pressure tester and use that to locate the leak. Basically, pressurize your cooling system and see where the coolant comes out.

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 24, 2015

My mechanic actually has one of those. I will see if I can get him to check that.

I think those fuel fumes are just vapors from the engine, because I do not smell any gas after about 5 minutes of shutting down the engine.

Thanks.

ehall

· #4 · Mar 24, 2015

The water pump is on the belt under the alternator although its unlikely that fluid would climb vertically from there but who knows. The inlet from the radiator is in front of the engine there too, could be a drip from that riding up the intake and back, they are kind of prone to rust and could fail easily. Could be a leaking intake manifold gasket too (hope not).

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 24, 2015

Thanks.

Well knowing my luck it is probably the last thing you mentioned, despite this being a low mileage car. If that is the case, this car is done in my book. I have already put way more into the car than it is worth (62,000 actual miles or nor). The new owner can deal with it, or junk it/part it out and use the like new interior.

This car has been babied and superbly maintained by a lady that bought it new at age 71 and I have done the same. I think this car was probably a lemon when new. I mean the car did set a lot over the last 5 years, but still no reason for it to start to fall apart when I start driving it regularly. Within 2 weeks, the rear brakes started causing the car to jerk when putting on the brakes (I guess the drums need replaced), engine started knocking after EGR replacement/new fuel injectors, ELR went out the day after I bought it, A/C will not work after recharging, power antenna broke (though that is minor I know), but you can see where I am going with this. I paid $1500 for the car, put another $700 in it and would be lucky to get $1700 for it and have only put about 3000 miles on it since I got it.

My mechanic would be the type to say it was the water pump, replace it (charge me $300), then it still leak and him say it is that gasket and want to charge another $400.

I think it is time to move on. There is a guy very interested in it that wants to look at it this weekend. Maybe he will buy it.

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 25, 2015

Here are some pics of the coolant that is pooling. It is a very, VERY slow leak.

You can get an idea of where it is leaking from these pics.

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4

mc_marto

· #7 · Mar 25, 2015

That appears to be on top of the water pump, so I doubt it comes from the pump itself.

If you want to get an idea of the kind of fun I had with my water pump - click here.

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ehall

· #8 · Mar 25, 2015

I'd say dab it up with paper towel, and sprinkle some talcum powder in there. You should be able to trace the source from that.

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dchavezo

· #9 · Mar 25, 2015

I've spent so much on my car it'll make you head spin. I've spent about 8 grand, and before I had it my uncle had about that much done in work as well (including a 4k dent fix above rear window and paint + new pin stripe)

It comes down to what it's worth to you. I'll keep sinking money into it and when it comes time for a tranny if I might look at what else is on the market. There was a mint 2 door 91 for 2900 with 40k original. Might do something like that if it comes to it.

I'm sorry this hasn't worked out in your favor tenn.

Maybe look for a 92 rwd with a 5.7?! =D

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Maybe I'm crazy but the car runs like a champ and is absolutely good to go

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And I'm sure other have spent more. To me it's worth it and still cheaper than a new car

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brougham

· #10 · Mar 25, 2015

I've had that puddle tbefore from the water pump. Dry the area with a paper towel and you can see where it's coming from.

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Inkredible

· #11 · Mar 25, 2015

I had that puddle and it turned out to be loose rear water pump bolts. The liquid seeps out of the rear of the gasket. Pull out the battery and overflow for the radiator to make it easier and tighten up ALL of the water pump bolts. Be careful that you don't snap off any of the small ones.

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ehall

· #12 · Mar 26, 2015

Don't turn too hard either or you'll strip the small threads

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #13 · Mar 26, 2015

Thanks for the replies. I will try to see if I can get those tightened carefully. If I was going to keep the car I wouldn't be in a rush, as I is leaking ever so slow I haven't even had to add any coolant except a when I noticed it had dropped slightly below the "full hot" level on the overflow tank, so I went ahead and put more in it and a little extra. There are some days and actually the last 2 days I have not seen any drips under the car. I have dried that before with a paper towel, but it comes back and I cannot see where it is coming from.

To dch - the car isn't worth that to me. I mean I got it because at the time it was a good deal, but not my "pick" Caddy, so I really do not want to put much more into it, so time to cut my losses and move on. It still needs rear shocks, rear brakes, ELC repair, as well as A/C repair. I think I am ready to move on. I hope I can find it a good home. If anyone here is interested BTW, I will take $1600 for it. I paid $1500 for it and spent another $700 on it two months ago. I have priced it locally for $2000. If it don't sell, I will use it as an extra car and sell it later and get that Fleetwood or Caprice.

Thanks again!

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dchavezo

· #14 · Mar 26, 2015

Tennesseestorm said:
Thanks for the replies. I will try to see if I can get those tightened carefully. If I was going to keep the car I wouldn't be in a rush, as I is leaking ever so slow I haven't even had to add any coolant except a when I noticed it had dropped slightly below the "full hot" level on the overflow tank, so I went ahead and put more in it and a little extra. There are some days and actually the last 2 days I have not seen any drips under the car. I have dried that before with a paper towel, but it comes back and I cannot see where it is coming from. To dch - the car isn't worth that to me. I mean I got it because at the time it was a good deal, but not my "pick" Caddy, so I really do not want to put much more into it, so time to cut my losses and move on. It still needs rear shocks, rear brakes, ELC repair, as well as A/C repair. I think I am ready to move on. I hope I can find it a good home. If anyone here is interested BTW, I will take $1600 for it. I paid $1500 for it and spent another $700 on it two months ago. I have priced it locally for $2000. If it don't sell, I will use it as an extra car and sell it later and get that Fleetwood or Caprice. Thanks again!

Right on brother. I hope you can manage to come out at least even. Keep us updated. Did you ever replace that egr solenoid??

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 27, 2015

dchavezo said:
Right on brother. I hope you can manage to come out at least even. Keep us updated. Did you ever replace that egr solenoid??

I do not think I will. I am in it at $2100, but have put about 3500 miles on it, so that counts for something. lol. No I never did. I just listen to it knock.

I did change the oil in it night before last before last and this time used slightly thicker 20w-50 oil hoping it would quieten down some, but it didn't. I am going to try to sell it as-is and if someone notices the knock and don't buy because of it, I may have to break down and buy that solenoid and see if it stops. I may go ahead and get one this weekend. I just have to figure out how to change it.

Right now I am in desperate need of rear brakes.

*On a good note, at 3000 miles, the car had not burned or leaked a drop of oil. It was still completely full. You may remember before I replaced the PCV valve, it was using about a quart every 500 miles. It made a huge difference. It was an AC-DELCO valve, so I imagine it was original.

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dchavezo

· #16 · Mar 27, 2015

Wow going from a quart every 500 to none used or burned is tits. I wish I didn't have to add oil. But oil is the only thing I'm okay with adding. Any other fluid adding would be a massive problem. Egr solenoid is the easiest thing to replace. It's one bolt that holds it on, it's got a nipple that only lets you install it the correct direction (filter pointed down) and then re attach the two vac lines. If you need help I can post pics. Super easy dude. And good job putting 3k miles on it! :thumbsup:

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Also I'll say it and I'm sure others will, there's no added benefit going with a thicker oil, I'd stick to the 10w-30 synthetic that it was designed and recommended to run. You're slight increase prob won't hurt anything though

Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #17 · Mar 28, 2015

Yeah, I thought something was major wrong with my engine, so I was glad it was only the PCV valve. I hit the 3000 mile mark on the oil and checked it and it was still full. I didn't think the 20w-50 would hurt since warm weather is here. Yeah, if I find where that EGR solenoid is on the engine, I am sure I could change it. The factory FSM doesn't even mention it which I thought was odd. Yeah if I could see a photo of where it is located I could change it. If it don't work (don't get rid of the knock), I could take it back I guess. lol.

Thanks.

dchavezo said:
Wow going from a quart every 500 to none used or burned is tits. I wish I didn't have to add oil. But oil is the only thing I'm okay with adding. Any other fluid adding would be a massive problem. Egr solenoid is the easiest thing to replace. It's one bolt that holds it on, it's got a nipple that only lets you install it the correct direction (filter pointed down) and then re attach the two vac lines. If you need help I can post pics. Super easy dude. And good job putting 3k miles on it! :thumbsup:

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Also I'll say it and I'm sure others will, there's no added benefit going with a thicker oil, I'd stick to the 10w-30 synthetic that it was designed and recommended to run. You're slight increase prob won't hurt anything though

ehall

· #18 · Mar 28, 2015

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dchavezo

· #19 · Mar 28, 2015

right on. I was gonna take and post a pic from my engine but this works to. Easiest diagram to read ever

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Tennesseestorm

Discussion Starter · #20 · Mar 28, 2015

Looks easy enough! I will try that. Thanks!

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