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El Dorado
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Discussion Starter #1
I am in process of replacing the ignition switch (electrical part on top of column) and have run into a snag. There is about a 1/4" dia, rod coming into the bottom of the switch and going thru the firewall that I cannot get out. It looks to be held into the switch by a retainer that has some type of locking ring that I cannot get out. Can anybody tell me EXACTLY how to get that rod out and back into the new switch?

Also the new switch comes complete with the big rectangular connector that connects directly to the switch The original switch has three connectors from that big black connector that connect to the switch. The new switch does not have any connectors - just the big black connector and all the connector terminals on the switch are bradded to wires going to that connector. I checked all the interchange parts (AC/Delco, BW, Wells and they are all this new type design. My question is "how do the cruise control switches on the steering column get connected to the switch?"
 

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El Dorado
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Discussion Starter #2
OK. I answered my own questions.

1. The cable is the PARKING LOCK cable that goes to the gear shift in console and keeps the the gear selector from moving out of PARK unless ignition switch is moved to ON. You can insert a small screwdriver into a slot for that purpose where the cable goes into the switch and lift the little locking tab up while pulling on the cable. In my case, I just removed the whole little plastic assembly with the cable in it from the switch by removing the two small phillips screws at the front, and it was obvious the tab needed to be pressed down to remove the cable. There is a little bent metal tab that holds the back part of that assembly which the assy just drops out of.

When you go to put the cable into the new switch, the switch selector has to be off the LOCK position so the plastic actuating tab on the cable can press down on the little spring loaded gizmo that is inside the cable hole. You can use a small screwdriver to insert into the cable hole and press down on that gizmo. Move the switch selector til you find a position that will let you move the gizmo. If you can't move the gizmo, you cannot insert the cable completely. The cable will lock in securely when you hit that sweet spot.

2. The new switches now come with a new big black connector that replaces the original three cables. You have to remove the thin black auxiliary connector from the original black connector by prying up slightly on that connectors edge and release the small locking tab in the middle of the connector. Note the position of the connector carefully to make sure you put it in the correct position on the new switch. It will only make contact one way.

I had quit work on the switch Sunday afternoon. Researched the situation on 'net that night. Found an Autozone article that highlited the position of the tab, but could find NOTHING on park lock cable removal. Yesterday, armed with the determination a good night's sleep can provide, I quickly resolved my issues. Biggest problem I suffered is an aching back from all the contortions yer body has to go thru working under that blasted Caddy dash!

Test the operation of the switch by tightening the two mounting screws and setting the switch in the center of its mounting range and try to start the car. If the car will not start and/or the key cannot be removed easily, try readjusting the switch mounting. I had to do this a couple times before I found the correct working location.

Sorry for no pictures but in the frustration to fix the switch I just forgot to make them.

Hope this helps someone else who plans to replace the ignition switch on these cars. I understand several other GM cars use this same switch.
 
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