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I went and test drove a '68 DeVille Convertible... It had a couple of things wrong with it and wanted to get some ideas of how I should adjust the price....

The blinkers didn't stay on (you have to hold the stalk), is that just a new switch? How much trouble/money is that?

The climate control module is broken and that needs to be fixed. I've heard of places that rebuild them, any ballparks on having that rebuilt?

The cruise control mechanism under the hood is missing (the switch on the dash is there). How much should I allocate for that?


Thanks for any help...
 

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have same car (see pix under let's see them deville's)
also have flaky turn signal and climate control, hope we both can get some answers
 

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Welcome aboard!! Both of you!!!

I cant say for sure where you can get those things, but you could at least get ideas by googleing......

I would assume any cruise control modules could be hard to come by and could be expensive...... Just giving a rough guess, I would say to set aside 500 for that....... And then maybe another 200 for the turn signal.... Again, that is just a guess by my part, it could be higher, and it could be lower...... Climate control module I dont have a clue on, but that might be pricey also.....

You can always go to your local junkyard to see what they have........
 

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same probs with my '68

My turn signal does the same thing on my 68 coupe. It'll stick to the left but not to the right. And my climate control works... sort of. It'll adjust the fan speed to blow harder or softer and will adjust whether to blow from the dash or the floor but it only blows ice cold, no temp change whatsoever. That's a little disheartening when you roll that dial up to 85 and expect hot air from that 472 to toast your tootsies and they get even more frozen. Let me know if you've found anything out, or if anyone even reads this. The last reply was several months ago.
 

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How did I miss this thread? Regarding the Auto Climate control, I would check the basic stuff like kinked hoses and stuff like that. There should be 3 vacuum hoses on the heater control valve, which is located on the passenger side fenderwell by the voltage regulator. Two hoses on the side and one on the bottom. Make sure they are still there and not leaking. If everything seems fine, Check your parking brake auto-release. Does it still work?
 

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my automatic parking brake release works, yeah. does that have something to do with the auto ac? or is that just another part that tends to break a lot?
 

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Believe it or not, Caddy has a long tradition of tying things together that have absolutely no releation to each other together. They didn't start with the data bus radios contrary to popular belief. As for the next thing to try, under the dash in the middle there is a plug on the floor air box with 2 green wires. Unplug that, and unplug the vacuum hose on the bottom of the heat control valve. The plug will make the Climate control call for max heat, and unplugging the bottom vacuum hose will make the valve stay open. If you get heat, then check the unplugged hose for vacuum. if you don't, feel the hoses on either side of the valve, then feel the return from the heater core. They should all be hot.
 

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hey, i figured out why my heater isn't working. i was replacing the valve cover gaskets yesterday because the engine is leaking oil like crazy and, although i couldn't tell to what extent they were contributing to the overall leakage, i did notice that the driver's side was leaking a good bit. anyways, the two hoses going to and from the radiator and into the heater core have been disconnected from the core and reconnected to each other via a short aluminum pipe. i didn't reconnect them for fear that they were disconnected because the core was busted and leaking. IF the core were busted does anyone know how hard/expensive that is of a fix? Thanks!
 

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Im not sure...... As seen earlier, on some cars its easy to get to, and on others it requires the dash coming out..... On a 68, I couldnt tell you.......!

Its not really an inbetween job.... Its either gonna be a breeze, or after your done you'll realize you would have been happier (or richer) without heat....
 

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IF it is busted, it doesn't look TOO hard to replace, but you need to remove the heater-blower assembly. To check it, i'd use air pressure, only 5-10 pounds maximum to prevent it from rupturing.
 
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