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Discussion Starter #21
Morning all. Shop is saying it's the expansion valve. Going to dive into the dash this weekend unless one of you know an easier way.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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I have done this before on a Ford. Best advice, take pictures of what screw, bolt , nut, part came of from where. When you go to put it back together they will all look the same if you don't.
Catorigize where the hardware goes.

Taking out the dash is a big job.

The flat rate for a tech that has done the job a few times is 10 hours to replace the valve.

sorry, it took so long to get back, I am doing an A/C job now, and the NEW compressor I just put on is not working. Lucky for me it only takes 15 mins. to replace it. and an hour to diagnose.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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I am doing an A/C job now, and the NEW compressor I just put on is not working. Lucky for me it only takes 15 mins. to replace it. and an hour to diagnose.
New compressor from whom?
 

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New compressor from whom?
From Discount ac parts. All New with clutch and 1 year warranty, no exchange, cost $175.00 no freight costs for Ford. Cost for Cadillac $360.00
 

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Lifespeed, by the way, thanks for that diag. on my shocks. You are correct the car rides GREAT now with new OEM shocks all around.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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Glad you're enjoying the car the way it was meant to be. The bad AC compressor is annoying. It is hard to imagine an AC compressor could be manufactured and delivered at a profit for $175 without some compromises.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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Glad you're enjoying the car the way it was meant to be. The bad AC compressor is annoying. It is hard to imagine an AC compressor could be manufactured and delivered at a profit for $175 without some compromises.
That's only the half of it.
Months ago the Thunderbird has a freon leak, I had to buy a freon sniffer tool to find it was the evaporator. After I put the evaporator in it worked great for one week and it had another leak at the manifold to the compressor. Fixed it and it worked for about 2 weeks then only blows cold in the morning. The wife feels so bad with all the work I am doing she does not tell me.
I take the car to fill it with gas and no cold air. I start looking for another leak and I can't find it. I get a set of gauges to find it is full of freon. What the hell?
I start driving the car and when it's all warmed up there is a sequel. Yes, it's the clutch on the A/C compressor. So after 17 years, I figure I will get a new compressor.

I put the new Comp. on, vacuum the system for 2 hours and set it for 8 hr and it holds the vacuum. I start to fill it with freon and it only gets up to 60PSI on the low side and zip on the high? what?
I put a new can of freon on the hose and get the low side to 75 PSI. but 0 on the high side. The A/C clutch will not engage so I fill the high side with freon and work filling both sides to 90 psi, the clutch comes on and I get no rise in pressure to the high side.
That's when I call the parts guy in San Diego and he said, we need to send you a new compressor, no charge.
It is only 107 degrees but it's a dry heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
While I'm in the dash for the valve, is there anything else I should change out? Is there anything I need to do once I've changed the part?
 

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2011 CTS Coupe Premium
Orlando - We take orphans
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BTW you can usually change the clutch on a GM compressor without opening the system as long as the clutch didn't go because the compressor froze.

Any time I open a system I leave it at a high vaccuum overninght because I can, it finds any leak without wasting freon, and pulls out any residual moisture.

Am more used to GM cars with accessible oriface tubes but for a blockage I'd reverse flush it first. Know flushing is not popular these days but if something failed, I want it all out.
 

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While I'm in the dash for the valve, is there anything else I should change out? Is there anything I need to do once I've changed the part?
do you have the vacuum pump and a set of A/C gauges?
Take some pictures of the work so we can see, please.
 

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My A/C problems; So the new A/C compressor arrives Saturday at 4 PM. And I put it on when the sun went down.
As I was putting in the freon I have the same problem as the last pump. It will not take the freon and distribute it thru the system? WTH? The low-pressure gauge reads 100 psi but no freon is flowing thru the system.

I bet I have a bad set of A/C gauges.
So I take the hose off the low side at the gauge and try to send freon to it but when I open the blue low-pressure knob the gauge goes to 70psi but no freon comes out the fitting. OUCH.
Sunday;
I go to the auto part store and exchange the loaner gauge, and all is good in my world. The system fills with freon;

A/C is putting out 36-degree air from the dash vents and the A/C gauges are at the correct PSI. Low 35 psi and High 255 psi at 105 degrees. happy days.
Time for a BIG drink.
 

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There are shops that are expert in AC repair, hence the dealer's suggestion. If you're not an expert and don't have the equipment this may be a case where it makes a lot of sense to utilize a pro. Are you aware that air must be pumped out of the system if it is opened to replace any components? An expensive piece of equipment beyond the gauge set.
Agreed, modern automotive AC systems pretty sophisticated and beyond just a simple pressure check showing low refrigerant I'd have a professional look at it.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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I go to the auto part store and exchange the loaner gauge, and all is good in my world. The system fills with freon;
You know they didn't throw the faulty gauge set way, they'll give it to the next sucker who asks. Still, it illustrates the pitfalls of repairs on the cheap - in this case a bad loaner tool. While this isn't intended as a criticism, I understand why someone who has the knowledge and abilities would proceed to do this repair. But you're burned by a crap tool, from Joe's Low-Budget Auto Parts.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe Premium
Orlando - We take orphans
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Last time I looked R134A was still $4.88/can at WallyWorld.
Have both R12 and R134 gauge sets from HF, both work fine. (Still have one R-12 car)
Generally just use a low side charger with gauge.
Once built a vacuum pump from a Olds Diesel vacuum pump and a quarter horse electric motor. A compressor from a junque refrigetatior can pull a better vacuum.
Just a matter of haviing the proper tables.
 

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I once built a septic tank pump by assembling a 454 Chevy with the compression rings upside, then spun it with the power take-off from my truck's transmission.
 
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