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LS6 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just a question - i know already we have weak diffs, but if they are blowing on even 1-2 shifts, how is eliminating the wheel hop going to fix anything? i understand that with the new axles, they won't hop - but the torque will still be applied on the 1-2 shift. won't the diffs still blow?
 

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Maggie'd 05 CTS-V
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I get wheelsping at the 1-2 shift now.... sometimes in the past I would get a hop or two when really on it.
My vid in the DSS axles results thread will (when uploaded) show a 1st burnout, shift and further wheelspin in 2nd.
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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GTZ you need to get a smaller pulley on that thing!
 

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2004 CTS-V
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with killing the wheel hop, you keep the load on the diff consistant, when the wheel would hop the diff would be loaded and unloaded very rapildly. That is some serious force to try and keep together for any sort of diff/transaxle. When im racing, i have to make sure when i jump to let off as to not destroy my tranaxle/cv's/clutch on landing and im running a buiilt off road racong tranny.
 

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Maggie'd 05 CTS-V
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GTZ you need to get a smaller pulley on that thing!
Right now thats my insurance policy.... big pulley low boost, less likely to blow something, but yeah it would be nice, dropped 40hp/40ftlbs from stock exhaust to headers/cat-back, could get it back with a 2.8 I bet.
 

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05 Raven V
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I gotta tell ya, as someone with a KARSIII kit who blew his rear (2nd/3rd shift. My motor is N/A) Ive never had a problem spinning second, lol even with 295s.... I would honestly suggest everyone does the axles over a KARS kit though, there wont be any dealer issues... (you also dont have to deal with the associated whine)
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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I still have hop. It sucks. When I have two people in the back its a LOT worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would think that the axles alone would do a fine enough job without the need of the bmr kit. but the bmr kit would be nice eye candy though.
wouldn't you still want to strengthen the rear carrier though? i saw a youtube video of the cradle while the car was in motion and as soon as any real torque it delivered to the rear - it seems to squirm all over the place.
 

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05 Raven V
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wouldn't you still want to strengthen the rear carrier though? i saw a youtube video of the cradle while the car was in motion and as soon as any real torque it delivered to the rear - it seems to squirm all over the place.
Actually most of that movement is the cradle on the rubber body mounts. Creepy, no? The cradle is huge, well reinforced and I dont think it has any issues handling up to 1000 horsepower (minimum) based on looking at it.

What the car should have had was a set of body mounts at the very front of the cradle and a set at the very rear. It would eliminate torsion and body mount issues that seem to arise in every wheelhop thread. Of course you would still need a rear end that didnt explode when you took off from a standstill...
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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by body mounts are you referring to the bushings available via spectre werkes and the like?
Specter Werks inserts go into the stock cradle mounts. They're not a replacement, but rather a supplement.
 

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Platinum 2004 CTS-V
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What the car should have had was a set of body mounts at the very front of the cradle and a set at the very rear. It would eliminate torsion and body mount issues that seem to arise in every wheelhop thread. Of course you would still need a rear end that didnt explode when you took off from a standstill...
:hmm: It does already

Or are you talking about some urethane beefy mounts? i.e: BMR, Spectre, etc
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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:hmm: It does already

Or are you talking about some urethane beefy mounts? i.e: BMR, Spectre, etc
The mounts are in bad locations. They most forward attachment point of the cradle is behind the mounts for the trailing arms. Similar situation in the back. It like sitting on a stool with the legs mounted about 4" apart and sitting in one 4' apart. Having the mounting points farther out would have stabilized the cradle. Having this and better body to cradle mounts (not soft rubber) wheel hop would be much more manageable. But this thing with the new axles is great because it keeps the harmonics from winding up from the get go. Add the new axles and better cradle bushings and the car will fill tight in the ass end and have no hop with minimal noise transmission.
 

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Specters are better.
 
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