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CTS
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I recently bought a 2005 Cadillac CTS and I have had problems with some electrical systems. The gas and fuel gauge don't work and the car thinks it is constantly in drive since some of my navigation features (like playing DVDs) are disabled because they are "unavailable when the vehicle is in motion". The lights on the automatic gear shift do not illuminate to tell you which gear the car is in. The reverse lights also do not work and the key gets stuck in accessory mode. I have to manually remove the key by pressing the release button under the steering wheel. The theft light is on and so is the traction control dummy light. The radio constantly displays the message "Service Theft Deterrent System." I recently discovered that the 3rd rear brake light (the one that goes over the trunk, not the legal lights) was full of water and also does not work. I have checked fuses, tried disconnecting the battery, & touching the battery cables together to reset all computer systems as I read on the Internet. I have read online that this is apparently a problem with the ECM or with any of the 8 modules connected to/contained in the BCS. I have been led to believe that the DIM (Dash Integration Module) or the RIM (Rear Integration Module) is faulty (or has a faulty component) but I am not sure how to test this or how to proceed once I find the answer. The car had its ECM (Electrical Control Module) replaced in August 2014 (according to the CarFax) and the battery is new as of June 2014. Any suggestions?
 

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I have the same issue. NO temp or fuel gauge works. the traction and sports lights do not work. and two days ago my car turned off while driving now it cranks but wont turn on. replaced fuel filter and crank sensor but nothing.
 

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I just got a used 07 CTS and the Service Theft System on the DIC, fuelgauge stopped working, temperature gauge stopped working, cruise control stopped working, and wouldn't release the key when turned off. It was sporadic in working sometimes and not others. The dealership replaced the ECU and for 8 days there hasn't been any problems.
 

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2006 cts
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My 06cts is doing the same right now what can i do to fix this money is real right now.please any suggestion...my key is stuck all gauges are down showing tc and theft won't crank or start
 

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2004 cts sport
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856 Posts
Bad ecm, very common on first gen cts mine went at 115km

Buy refurbished and relearn keys yourself for a couple hundred $
 

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07 CTS 3.6 V6
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Have you had any problems after that? Because I got the same year/model and the theft light became intermittent. So it comes up when I'm driving. Even with the lights on, I can turn the car on and run it normally. Please let me know. Did you get to change the theft deterred module?
 

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2007 CTS 2.8, 1977 Eldorado 425ci
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I have an 07 2.8 CTS. Mine had similar problems last year. Key locked in, dash not lighting up, etc. I unhooked the battery for a few hours and it seemed to reset whatever was wrong. Over the past year it started to have occasional rough idle problems, cylinder misfires and voltage spikes. Then I hit a big dog and "occasional" became permanent. The voltage would spike up and down and the car would shake at idle and backfire. I assumed a bad voltage regulator, which is attached to the alternator, so I replaced it. No Fix, but I was now getting higher voltage. My reader said Cylinder 3 misfire. So I changed the ignition coil for cylinder 3 with a new one. No change, so i swapped cylinder 3 and 5 coils to see if it was a bad coil. Nope. Still cylinder 3 misfire. I changed the injector for 3 and still no change. My next move is to clean the connections for the ECM and see if that helps, but right now I'm thinking I'll have to replace the ECM and have it programmed. I don't know if this helps anyone but hopefully if you're chasing the same demon as me, you can save some cash on parts. Good Luck. I'll post if the new ECM solves my problems.
 

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I have an 07 2.8 CTS. Mine had similar problems last year. Key locked in, dash not lighting up, etc. I unhooked the battery for a few hours and it seemed to reset whatever was wrong. Over the past year it started to have occasional rough idle problems, cylinder misfires and voltage spikes. Then I hit a big dog and "occasional" became permanent. The voltage would spike up and down and the car would shake at idle and backfire. I assumed a bad voltage regulator, which is attached to the alternator, so I replaced it. No Fix, but I was now getting higher voltage. My reader said Cylinder 3 misfire. So I changed the ignition coil for cylinder 3 with a new one. No change, so i swapped cylinder 3 and 5 coils to see if it was a bad coil. Nope. Still cylinder 3 misfire. I changed the injector for 3 and still no change. My next move is to clean the connections for the ECM and see if that helps, but right now I'm thinking I'll have to replace the ECM and have it programmed. I don't know if this helps anyone but hopefully if you're chasing the same demon as me, you can save some cash on parts. Good Luck. I'll post if the new ECM solves my problems.
Did the ECM work for.
 
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