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2005 Escalade Base 6.0L
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Discussion Starter #1
Tried the different leak stops & no help. Going to try to replace the rear main seal with a friend. Any advice on other parts to change while we are under the vehicle & doing this job? Also, I have read where people recommend GM part # 12639250 which has the seal already installed. Is this correct? Is the summit racing Chevy performance 12639250 any better? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. We have never tried something like this so we need all the help & experience we can get! Thank you!!
 

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Allow for time to get it done! I’ve read and been told it can be done in a weekend. May want to use 6ton jack stands and a jack to raise it off the ground to give yourself room to work if not using a lift.


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2005 Escalade Base 6.0L
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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. Also, if anyone can let me know what type/size tools are needed?
 

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'05 ESV Platinum, 250,000 still looking fine, really fine!
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I did my '05, 6.0 about a year and a half ago. I do not have access to a lift so I was looking at replacing on my back using jack stands etc. I did not look forward going that route.

If you read up on it, most will say drop transmission and replace that route. I decided to pull motor out instead. I had a few exhaust manifold bolts that were broken as well that I wanted replace.

Believe it or not I had motor out within a couple of hours. I used OEM AC Delco rear main seals as a replacement. The originals lasted 12 years and about 270,000 miles. I spent the couple extra bucks. I took my time and did the job from Friday night and had truck running and back on the road for Monday morning commute (driving my daughters to school).

Other than the rear seals and broken manifold bolts, I purchased exhaust manifold gaskets and 2 exhaust donut seals. I rented a cherry picker from Sunbelt tool rental at a cost of about $125.00 from Friday til Monday morning.

My truck is southern. I did not have to contend with rust/corrosion issues. All in all not a bad job if you go into it with the mindset that you are going to spend a better part of a weekend but, the pay off is you are going to save BIG $$$$ DIYing!!! If you get a buddy to help that's a bonus!
 

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That's a very interesting approach to replacing the rear main seal. I'm thinking my 2006 ESV with 200K that would be the right move for me as well. Have a question, did you remove the engine and transmission together?
 

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'05 Escallade ESV Plat., '16 Z51 Corvette, '03 Avalanche, 12 Lexus IS350C
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152 Posts
I'd go with the cover and pre-installed seal.
Check that part number with gmpartsgiant.com or the dealer to make sure it fits your vehicle. I just noticed, they are saying the part is discontinued, so you may have to go aftermarket.
I recommend replacing the oil pressure diverter (Barbelll). There is a company that makes a billet one. I'd probably go that route, but the factory plastic one is fine too.
The diverter is what went bad in my '01 Corvette. I thought it was the rear seal, but it was the rear cover gasket due to pressure getting past the diverter.

Remove the flywheel in one piece if it's the 2 piece design.

If your there, you may want to replace the oil pressure sensor.
 

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'05 ESV Platinum, 250,000 still looking fine, really fine!
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1,119 Posts
Have a question, did you remove the engine and transmission together?
No I did not. I left transmission and torque converter in truck. As mentioned, pulling engine was a better decision for me and not that difficult. A lot less time wrenching on my back.

I did not replace anything Realmsteel mentioned above. I purchased AC Delco replacement parts from Rock Auto.
 

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2005 Escalade Base 6.0L
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again! Also noticing small amount of trans fluid dripping? What is the usual culprit? Lastly, Anything else maintainance wise you would change out while pulling the trans?
 

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'05 Escallade ESV Plat., '16 Z51 Corvette, '03 Avalanche, 12 Lexus IS350C
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152 Posts
Front seal on the transmission.
Pull the torque converter off and check for a groove where the seal rides. If it's too bad, consider getting another converter. The seal is an easy replace.
One of the things that makes your rear main and the transmission front seal leak is worn main engine bearings from high miles. When the mains wear the crank moves around and therefore the converter does too. This wears the seals.
If you have very high miles, you can replace the seals, but don't expect them to last 100k miles.
If you have the time and want to verify the main bearings are in spec, pull the pan and the rear main cap and check with plastigage.
 

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2005 Escalade Base 6.0L
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Discussion Starter #10
Front seal on the transmission.
Pull the torque converter off and check for a groove where the seal rides. If it's too bad, consider getting another converter. The seal is an easy replace.
One of the things that makes your rear main and the transmission front seal leak is worn main engine bearings from high miles. When the mains wear the crank moves around and therefore the converter does too. This wears the seals.
If you have very high miles, you can replace the seals, but don't expect them to last 100k miles.
If you have the time and want to verify the main bearings are in spec, pull the pan and the rear main cap and check with plastigage.
Thanks! I put Blue Devil & ATP-205 in the oil over the years to try & slow the oil leak. Could that cause the front transmission seal to leak over time also?
 

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'05 Escallade ESV Plat., '16 Z51 Corvette, '03 Avalanche, 12 Lexus IS350C
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It's anyone's guess, but seals generally leak from wear or from sitting.
I personally don't think stop leak additives cause unleaking seals to eventually start. I've only used stop leak once in a junkyard transmission I had to replace while on vacation. I should have replaced the front seal, but the autoparts store in bufu South Dakota didn't have one in stock. The old leaked for a month until the stop leak eventually started working.
 
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