[jmf1964]

Went to start the car last night, the starter turned for 1/2 a second then went click click click, and all the lights dimmed, did this for about 3 tries then the the car started normally. I checked the battery voltage on the dic it showed 14.5. Did it again this morning but the car would not start at all, after about 6 tries i gave up. I also noticed a burning smell last night when driving home. Could the power wire to the starter have overheated and burned up?
Local shop wants $500 to change the starter, but I'm not convinced the starter is bad.
I would do it myself but I don't have a garage and the weather will be crappy this weekend.

 

[Ranger]

Went to start the car last night, the starter turned for 1/2 a second then went click click click, and all the lights dimmed,

The starter is not your problem. Your battery is. Anytime you hear the starter solenoid clicking like that, it's low battery voltage. Check the voltage before you attempt to start it. I'd bet it is well below 11.75v. The 14v you saw was charging volts, not battery volts. In fact, it almost sounds like a dead cell.

 

[jmf1964]

thanks, I'll pick up a battery tonight

 

[basscatt]

could be the battery - could also be a loose battery connection or bad ground -

 

[Byrdman]

thanks, I'll pick up a battery tonight

be sure you get the correct battery with vent tube. hold on to your butt when they give you the price.

 

[jmf1964]

Just put in the new battery, no change, still won't start. Gonna have it towed to the shop. We'll see whats up tomorrow i hope.
thanks for responding.

 

[cadillac_al2]

Harbor Freight gives away multi meters for free. They actually work pretty good. No reason not to have one.

 

[jmf1964]

Just heard from the shop, head gaskets, one cylinder was filled with antifreeze and hydrauliced the motor Now the question, do i junk it or do i get a motor.

 

[Cuthundreville97]

Just heard from the shop, head gaskets, one cylinder was filled with antifreeze and hydrauliced the motor Now the question, do i junk it or do i get a motor.

You'd better be damn sure that it is the head gasket before you commit to a repair. I assume you've got a good mechanic, and that diagnosis is conceivable. The only reason that I hesitate is that, that seems like a whole lot of coolant to get into one cylinder, as I assume you drive the car often. That's a pretty drastic amount of coolant in such a small span of time (if you'd driven it the day prior).

I don't know how many miles you've got on the Deville, but that'll probably be your major factor. It's totally your call. Can you commit $2,500+ to a head bolt repair? I remember RON93 mentioning something about a connection he has to someone who does these repairs, maybe ask him for more info. I'd assume a rebuilt motor + install would cost a fair amount more. But again, it'll all come down to your current financial situation - whatever you think is best for your situation, considering the condition of the car. Is $2,500+ worth it to you?

I assume the "old guard" will be around soon enough to give you better insight and superior advice based on that.

 

[Submariner409]

In your first post you said the engine started after several tries and ran "normally". Then you tried to start it again next morning and "it would not start at all".

Does "would not start at all" mean the engine rolled over and would not catch and run - or does it mean the engine would not roll over at all? "Crank" is initial rollover', "start" is the catch and run sequence.

If the engine will not crank with a good battery, if the starter engages and no crank, I'll suspect a hydrolocked cylinder. If the engine cranks - rolls over easily and won't start - something else is wrong.

If the engine hydrolocked on a cranking sequence then there may be no damage. If it hydrolocked during a run sequence then the engine is toast....... Think of Hulk Hogan smacking the offending cylinder piston full force with a 12 pound sledge hammer.

 

[jmf1964]

In your first post you said the engine started after several tries and ran "normally". Then you tried to start it again next morning and "it would not start at all".

Does "would not start at all" mean the engine rolled over and would not catch and run - or does it mean the engine would not roll over at all? "Crank" is initial rollover', "start" is the catch and run sequence.

If the engine will not crank with a good battery, if the starter engages and no crank, I'll suspect a hydrolocked cylinder. If the engine cranks - rolls over easily and won't start - something else is wrong.

If the engine hydrolocked on a cranking sequence then there may be no damage. If it hydrolocked during a run sequence then the engine is toast....... Think of Hulk Hogan smacking the offending cylinder piston full force with a 12 pound sledge hammer.

I should have been more clear. The night before last it gave me trouble starting, acted like a dead battery but started on the second try. It did run a little rough, but I drove it the 5 miles to home. the next morning the starter would engage but the motor would not turn at all.
The mechanic said there was coolant in the cylinders, he didn't say if all 8 or how many were bad, and that the motor was hydrauliced . He managed to clean it out and it did start for him but he said it wasn't pretty.

 

[Ranger]

Not common for an '04 to have a bad HG, but not impossible either.

As Cundreville97 said, it is hard to believe that a HG would leak THAT bad, THAT fast.
You might want to do a block test or get a second opinion.

 

[jmf1964]

I'll get the car back this weekend and go from there, right now i'm leaning towards a rebuilt motor. I'd rather put the money into this car than buy something i don't know.
Anyone have any experience with Promar engines?

 

[RON93]

I'll get the car back this weekend and go from there, right now i'm leaning towards a rebuilt motor. I'd rather put the money into this car than buy something i don't know.
Anyone have any experience with Promar engines?

Unfortunately I don't but I do have experience with a head gasket job along with some other parts. lol

 

[jmf1964]

Who did the work? And, I'm guessing that didn't include pulling the motor?

 

[basscatt]

Who did the work? And, I'm guessing that didn't include pulling the motor?

========================
$2500 to $3000 total - parts and labor - properly done - using inserts -
that is the going price -

 

[RON93]

Who did the work? And, I'm guessing that didn't include pulling the motor?

I had the work done at a place that specializes in Cadillac, and Northstar Motors particular, in Potstown Pennsylvania. If you read the whole bill of sale it says remove motor and disassemble!

 

[jmf1964]

I had the work done at a place that specializes in Cadillac, and Northstar Motors particular, in Potstown Pennsylvania. If you read the whole bill of sale it says remove motor and disassemble!

I guess i missed that

The engine shop quoted me 3299.00 for a completely rebuilt engine and the local garage wants 1500.00 for the swap out. so I'm still on the fence about what to do.

 

[RON93]

I guess i missed that

The engine shop quoted me 3299.00 for a completely rebuilt engine and the local garage wants 1500.00 for the swap out. so I'm still on the fence about what to do.

So your saying $3300 for a rebuilt motor and a additional $1500 to swap it out?

 

[jmf1964]

Yup. For that I would get new valve covers, a new oil pan, the block has all new internals, and inserts for the head repair, and a 3 year warranty. The guy at the shop says it is about a 12 hr job to do the swap.

And this being my only daily driver I need it done relatively quick.