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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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DO NOT use "sealer" or other snake oils in engine oil. Fix the weep/leak correctly. You are almost guaranteed to make things worse with snake oils. Very possible that a seal will swell too much and be torn from excess friction.

Find the leak and repair it correctly. Oil on the right (rear) exhaust manifold - or where? Correct location makes a big difference in diagnosis.
 

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Super Moderator
White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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86,479 Posts
Are you sure it is oil and not coolant mixed with oily exhaust carbon or just dirty condensate?
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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19,004 Posts
as Sub said - leave the SNAKE OIL on the shelf - it CAUSES more problems in the long run -

the MOST common oil leaks are from a defective OPS - Oil Pressure Switch / oil filter adapter seal -
AND the rear cam cover -
 

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Registered
99 deville
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I have an oil pressure switch and filter adapter housing gasket coming this weekend.
Drove 1300 mi and replaced 3 qts of oil.
Love the car and will keep fixing it.
Could not find the sticker to identify the head bolts on this car.
RR pass side rocker?
This is an 04 Deville with 101,000 mi. Base model.
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,736 Posts
Do you still own/drive the listed 1999 Deville? Please update your profile. Thanks.

The head 2004 Northstar bolt specs are in the GM/Cadillac/Helm service manuals. Nowhere on or in the car itself.

Here's a 2003 and later Northstar oil filter adapter gasket assembly. VERY different from the pre-2003 O-ring setup.

oil filter adapter late gasket.jpg
 

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Registered
99 deville
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Jacked the car sky-hi today.
Adapter and sensor are ok.
Seems like the back valve cover gasket smokes the most.
So did not replace. Found a missing motor mount bolt and a loose trany mount bolt.
Replaced and tightened the other.
Replaced right rack and pinion boot also.
Looking at the valve cover gaskets next. All seem to have a 1 yr warranty.
Does anyone recommend sealer on the bottom of these silicone gaskets?
Thanks Dave.
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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409 Posts
2004 engine assembly tag pics post #17&25
Great thread for 2004 owners.


Cam covers might depend on gasket as to silicone sealer. I usually go with dry, they look like silicone(fel-pro blue) to avoid non-compatible materials and a likely big mess. Plus I hate cleaning stuff up if I have to go back in.
There are some corners that need it.
 

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99 deville
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Valve covers barely seeping. Need to do the pan and maybe the oil spacer down there. Going to do it at home.
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,736 Posts
Do some searching in the Northstar forum - for the new oil pan seal procedure. The formed silicone pan "seal" is not used - GM UltraGray RTV, in a calibrated bead size, is.

You will need to rig an engine suspension jig unless you remove the entire powertrain from the car. 4th picture.

The oil distribution plate is replaced with halfcase removal - DON'T TRY IT WITHOUT COMPLETE OVERHAUL !!!! 3rd picture.

oil pan 7 quarts.jpg
Oil pan removal.gif
Oil distribution plate.gif
engine support tool.gif
 

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99 deville
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Looks like a mess down there. Dripping more than when I got it 2 months ago.

Decided not to replace pan gaskets. As I cannot do the 3 rd gasket without pulling the motor.

No less might be the main seal at the tranny end.

Put some 20/50 castrol and some other thick product in there.

Much improved the situation. To minimal drips.

Had some fiberglass exhaust wrap leftove from my trike.

Cleaned the whole mess down there with spray brake cleaner and paper towels.

Wrapped the bottom pipe with this. Now it is cool to the touch when hot.

Put a radiator in. Got the air out of the cooling system. Today I put the new thermostat in.

Got check engine code. Without thermostat it pulls a high idle code at 1300 rpm. With it 800.

Took it for a ride to set the fiberglass tape wrap.

Seems the best way to remove all the air from the cooling system is fill the top hose with a

garden hose until it come out the motor. With thermostat installed push the flap in on the thermostat

with needle nose plier ends while filling top hose with hose. Without ts put hand on engine after hose

pressure pushes thru motor and hold and put top hose on. After that check bleeder hose on fill tank.

Should pull strong in a minute or two. A solid stream.Then all is well on cooling. They say check the heat inside.

Enclosed is a wrap pic.
576473
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
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19,004 Posts
Looks like a mess down there. Dripping more than when I got it 2 months ago.

Decided not to replace pan gaskets. As I cannot do the 3 rd gasket without pulling the motor.

No less might be the main seal at the tranny end.

Put some 20/50 castrol and some other thick product in there.

Much improved the situation. To minimal drips.

Had some fiberglass exhaust wrap leftove from my trike.

Cleaned the whole mess down there with spray brake cleaner and paper towels.

Wrapped the bottom pipe with this. Now it is cool to the touch when hot.

Put a radiator in. Got the air out of the cooling system. Today I put the new thermostat in.

Got check engine code. Without thermostat it pulls a high idle code at 1300 rpm. With it 800.

Took it for a ride to set the fiberglass tape wrap.

Seems the best way to remove all the air from the cooling system is fill the top hose with a

garden hose until it come out the motor. With thermostat installed push the flap in on the thermostat

with needle nose plier ends while filling top hose with hose. Without ts put hand on engine after hose

pressure pushes thru motor and hold and put top hose on. After that check bleeder hose on fill tank.

Should pull strong in a minute or two. A solid stream.Then all is well on cooling. They say check the heat inside.

Enclosed is a wrap pic. View attachment 576473
================================
Put some 20/50 castrol and some other thick product in there.
BIG MISTAKE - 10W30 is what your engine calls for -
and all that other crap does is break down and swell the rubber seals -
it MIGHT help in the short run - but SOON you'll have a LOT more oil leaking -
what's next - 90 weight gear oil?

Had some fiberglass exhaust wrap leftove from my trike..................
another BAD MOVE -
so - now when oil leaks down - it soaks into the fiberglass wrap -
WHEN that fiberglass wrap has accumulated enough oil -
it will act like a candle wick - supplying fuel for the fire -

DON'T park in a garage - or near anything that burns -

Seems the best way to remove all the air from the cooling system is fill the top hose with a
garden hose until it come out the motor.....................

the entire cooling system is sealed -
the ONLY way to expel air from the system is through the PURGE LINE -
this is constant and completely automatic -
assuming that the PURGE LINE is clear from the t-stat housing to the serge tank -

They say check the heat inside.
CORRECT - no heat from the heater means trapped air in the system -
air prevents coolant flow - the water pump can NOT move air -
 

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99 deville
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes it did not work. Fiberglass never set up.
Just soaked the oil up. Cut the fumes down though.
Going to remove it.

Got the air out of the cooling system in 3 minutes.
Filled the block up with water, Filled the radiator up.
Pulled the hose back with a cotter pin tool. (Hook tool)
Filled top hose with garden hose.
Added coolant to the bottle at the end.
Checked the bleeder hose.
Cool as a cucumber.
 

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Super Moderator
White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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86,479 Posts
Might want to check your coolant concentration. Based on what you said above, it sounds like you are WELL below the recommended 50/50 concentration.
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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There should be no need for a coolant recovery bottle on the end of the overflow hose that attaches to the surge tank filler neck. That surge tank needs a couple of inches of airspace in order to allow the warming coolant to expand and create the correct system pressure. The overflow hose gets rid of excess (overfilled) coolant. The purge line flows any time the engine is running. There is a FULL COLD legend and arrow molded into the top and side of the surge tank.

Deville 2000 reservoir tankside.jpg


That woven fiberglass exhaust pipe insulation (available in 5 different widths) will not "set up" with heat. It smokes for a while on first startup as the heat burns off the oils used in the tape weaving machine. (I have used many hundreds of feet of that stuff for lagging the exhaust pipes in marine engine installations.) Look closely .......... the two pipes either side of the flag. My 38' workboat, anchored, fresh white perch, pan fried. Tricked-out 1971 Olds 455, my shop.

Boat5.JPG
Boat12.jpg
 
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