CKPs do not normally cause high speed or even cruise speed random stalls. They usually act up during warmup at loop changeover or during slow speed slowdowns or coasting into a slow turn.
No idea what was involved in your electrical recall fix.
PCV valve ??? Your engine has a fixed orifice, not a rattle valve. No replacement necessary. Maybe the PCV dirty air line was broken/cracked ?
When it shuts off, the digital dash goes black (off completely), all power steering is lost, and the A/C shuts off.
I put it in park, turn the key (crank) to no avail. The response i get from cranking is similar to trying to crank with a dead battery without the clicking.
Sounds like either a dead battery (or shorted cells) or a very loose 12 volt power feed.
Everything going black with an engine stall is 12 volt related - if only the engine stalled, that's one set of problems; total car shutdown is power failure, big time.
I am having a hard time thinking it could be battery related. I let the car sit for a month and it started right up, and then does actually start up after those few cranks. I'm taking it back to the dealer Monday and opened a case with GM earlier.
They had it twice within less than 60 miles and did not find anything proactively, nor any codes that indicated the failure.
If anyone has any additional thoughts or opinions, please feel free to chime in. Thank you
Cadillac Deville Electrical System Recall 14V355000 that is simply a small plastic oval insert/filler - and a smaller key ring -
put onto the handle of the key - pretty much a waste of time -
this is what you get -
Picked the car up today and it shut off going 70 mph on the highway.
Then shut off 3 more times before I got it home. NOT indicative of faulty/failing Crankshaft Position Sensors -
No codes are coming up codes don't just "come up" on their own -
there is a procedure you go through to actually "pull codes" -
Sorry... what I meant was, no codes come up through a diagnostic that are indicative of this problem. All are related to other problems, like HVAC, ABS, front circuit solenoid, etc.
If it is not the CP sensors... what else should we be looking for? It's too dangerous to drive with this issue.
Here are all of the codes that are active.
RSS C0584 Current: Right Front Solenoid Circuit Open
RSS C0582 Current: Right Front Solenoid Circuit Low
RSS C0579 Current: Left Front Solenoid Circuit Open
RSS C0577 Current: Left front Solenoid Circuit Low
IPM B0429 Current: B0409 - Air Mix Door #1 Range Error
DDM B1591 : Mirror Vert. Pos Sensor-Out of Range/Open
ABS U1000: Class 2 Communication Malfunction
ABS C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
the random shut-downs sound more like a loose battery cable -
or a main ground failure -
----------------------
It's just strange that it started happening after the ignition recall was performed,
but they said the recall was performed correctly.
forget about the recall - has nothing to do with it -
they never touched the car during that recall procedure -
the "ignition recall" was just a small piece of plastic -
to fill in the opening in the key - and a smaller key ring -
to prevent you from putting too many keys on the ring -
-----------------
I am much more interested/concerned about the reason for replacing the shifter assembly -
The shifter assembly was replaced because the shifter was stuck in park, unable to go into any gear without pushing the small orange release clip. There was a Brake Light Switch replaced first, which did not work, and then the brake lights failed altogether. The dealer said it was the shift solenoid, but the way to fix it did not come alone, but as a whole assembly.
Since it was replaced, the shifter shifts into gear from park perfect.
How could I diagnose a main ground failure? And would that, or the loose cable cause intermittent engine shut down? while driving or parked?
I never had the issue until the shift assembly, recall, PCV and intake manifold were replaced/repaired. I understand about putting the recall out of the line of reasoning.
The shifter assembly was replaced because the shifter was stuck in park unable to go into any gear without pushing the small orange release clip.
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
also related to electrical -
There was a Brake Light Switch replaced first,
which did not work, electrical problem -
then the brake lights failed altogether
starting to develop a pattern here -
How could I diagnose a main ground failure? strictly "grunt work" -
start at the battery - under the seat -
check that the battery connections are tight -
then check the short ground connection to the floor -
everything MUST be clean and tight -
then go under the hood -
check both the main positive and ground connections and at the fuse boxes -
I see the pattern, but are you suggesting they could all be connected to the battery issue? I know the shifter not moving from park and the solenoid going out were common issues.
I see the pattern,
but are you suggesting they could all be connected to the battery issue?
could be all connected -
may be battery related -
may be battery CABLE/ground related -
did you ever have a problem turning the ignition off -
and removing the key?
I've posted recently about stalling while driving and having the CP sensors replaced to no avail. Suggestion about a battery issue. I checked, it seems everything was tight and clean. These codes are in history:
DDM U1301 History: Class 2 Short to Battery
MSM B1327 History: Device Power Circuit Low
AMP U1064 History Loss of Communications with DIM
ABS U1056 History: Loss of Communications with RSS
IRC U1016 History: Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM
Could this cause the car to shut off while driving? How is it diagnosed?
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