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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the story. My wife had complained that the AC was not working. When I checked it seemed as if the driver air was not as cool as the passenger side which was cold enough to make me doubt it was low on freon. Went into my mechanic, who is good, and was told that it was the blend doors. Air on drivers side was 29 degrees cooler than pasenger side. Caddy charges $3100 to fix and he could do for $1500 but suggested we first try setting the passenger side air down cool and direct vents toward driver. My wife did that but stopped back at the mechanics thge next day by herself when she again experienced no cold air at all. He agreed that there was no cold. Not a happy wife. The car is scheduled to go in shortly to have the blend door fix but my question is whether the sudden lack of cold air is related to that problem? The car has 102,000 miles and I have had it since new. My goal was to run to 150K before purchasing a new one but with all the stuff going wrong I am seriously considering a brand switch. My second question is whether most of these frustrating problems like blend doors, heated seat failure front brake problems etc. have been fixed on the new models?
 

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99STS,2004 Jeep Liberty Renegade,98 Deville RIP
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Did you say $3100 dollars, The doors are controlled by actuator motors and they only cost 80 dollars apiece and take about 1/2 hr to fix. A check of your codes will tell you which doors are causing the problem and if your AC is on the fritz, many members here have said that one side and not the other is a sign of leaking r134a. Other than the doors which should only cost about 200dollars to fix, depending on what the ac problem is, if any that could run you about 1200dollars. Unless you made a error in the amount quoted, I would be getting a second and third opinion and having those codes looked at.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #3
The cost apparently comes in, not because of the blend door cost but because of the labor to remove the entire dash to get to them. I will say that the $3100 was not my quote from a Dealer but from another caddy owner that checked on the cost.
I would appreciate hearing more informaion on how this fix could be done otherwise in 1/2 hour??
 

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2008 SRX
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403 Posts
You missed the point Caddyshack100 made. If it is an actuator, it takes abou a half hour to replace!!!. This actuator or low freon are the only real options here. Geze I hope I'm right, the light line guys have had a few dashes out, but not for this I don't think........EWill?? anyone
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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122 Posts
I just replaced the actuator on my Deville last weekend. (no air passenger side) Codes B0419 and B0423
1-disconnect the negative side of the battery located under the rear seat
2-pull the knee bolster towards you as you sit in the passenger seat(It is held in place by clips pressed into the lower dash and glovebox)
3-remove the 8? torxhead screws from the glovebox and pull the glovebox towards you and unhook the 2 electrical connectors then push the light into the glovebox turn it and pull it out.
4-remove the glovebox
On the left side halfway back is the black actuator motor with hole in center
5-unplug the electrical connector and remove the two screws(one through the center and one on the side)
6-remove the actuator
7-move the blend door to align the "D" shaped blend door shaft with the "D" cutout in the square actuator drive head
8-install the actuator with the 2 screws and plug in the electrical connector
9-push the glovebox 1/2 way in and install the electrical connectors and light
10-slide the glovebox back in while guiding the wires so they won't get pinched
11-install the 8? torx screws
12-carefully line up the pins of the knee bolster into the lower dash and glove box and push firmly to lock them in
13-connect the negative terminal of the battery and install the rear seat
14-put the key into the ignition and turn to "ON" but do not start. ALL the damper motors will recalibrate themselves because of power loss from battery, wait until you hear them stop moving

-You are done unless you want to clear the codes which will show up as history anyway. My actuator had a rounded out "D" in the drive head,but now I have A/C on my passenger side again. I'm a little slow so it took me around an hour with a beer break.I paid $93.00 at the stealership for the actuator only because they had it in stock or I would have bought it from rockauto for $65.00. Florida is too hot to wait.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #6
I really appreciate the help here because the potential cost [or savings] is dramatic. I just want to make sure I have this right before visiting my mechanic with the information you have supplied.[and not look too foolish]
When I first noticed the problem there was cold air coming out the passenger side vents and 20 degree warmer air coming out of the drivers side vents. That is when the car was taken in to have mechanic look at it and supposedly a pressure check was done on the AC [fine] and the blend door concern arose. Two days later my wife went in on her own to the mechanic because she said there was no cold air at all. Just before this post I took the car down the street and confirmed that no cold air is blowing out the vents. I also tried moving the thermostat from 90 degrees to 60 as someone suggested in another post. I could hear clicks that must have been blend doors moving but nothing else.
Does this still sound like an actuator problem or is there another blend door type problem that could involve dash removal? Is it still possible it is a low freon situation and worth it for me to run my own pressure test on the AC? The car did need freon last year. Thanks for hanging in here with me on this this frustrating problem.
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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122 Posts
My previous post was for no air on the passenger side. Same scenario will occur with the drivers side actuator as in your case. Cadillac Tech was correct in stating that it also could be low on freon but not low enough to set a code. Measure the temperature outside you car then measure the temperature coming out of the passenger side vents. It should be about 35 degrees cooler than outside if your A/C is properly charged. If not I would suspect a small leak before the blend door for the drivers side. You stated the car needed freon last year WHY? was the leak repaired? freon doesn't wear out. Did you pull the codes?
 

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2008 SRX
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403 Posts
Go under the hood and check the A/C accumulator. With the A/C on, it should be cold and probably dripping from condensation. If you don't think it's cold enough (compare with another vehicle), then the freon is low. I just don't remember which side goes warm first when it is low. If it needed freon last year, I'll bet it needs some again this year due to a leak.
You can see the actuators well if you remove the glove box and lower close out panel. Get in there and watch for movement of both while changing from 90 - 60. This should take about a half hour.
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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I think the drivers side will go warm first.There were some other posts on drivers side being warm recently and adding refrigerant was the seasonal fix. They'll be adding more next year, but at $5.00 a can I would to.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #10
I tried a search for this but could not find the pressures needed to check freon. I am assuming it will be o the AC kit directions but thought i would check.
I also came across a post in the "search" function that mentioned if a low refrigerant code is not deleted the AC will not blow cold air even if charged properly. Is there a way to check the code for that? I assume recharging a cadillac system is like any other GM car???
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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122 Posts
Courtesy of JimD


DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville, 2000-2005 Deville and other models with 3 buttons on the RH side of DIC


Use the 3 switches located to the right (LH [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]drive cars[/COLOR][/COLOR]) of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES
INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle


Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.


Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to exit.


SYSTEMS: (as of 1998)

ABS (Antilock [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]Brake System[/COLOR][/COLOR])
AMP (Amplifier)
DDM (Door Driver Module)
DIM (Dash Integration Module)
IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)
IPM (Instrument Panel Module)
IRC (Integrated Radio Module)
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
RFA (Remote Function Actuation)
RIM (Rear Integration Module)
SDM (Sensing and Diagnostic Module) Includes [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]airbag[/COLOR][/COLOR] crash data. Under RF seat
VTD (Vehicle Theft Deterrent)
MSM (Memory Seat Module)
TTM (Tilt/Telescoping Module)
RSS (Road Sensing [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]Suspension[/COLOR][/COLOR])

"History" means that the fault is no longer detected. It will stay in history for 50 ignition cycles then be deleted unless it becomes "Current" again or is cleared manually.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. I ran the diagnostic test and only have one current code. It is;
IPM BO429. [note I think that character before the "P" is a I and not a 1 but not sure. Any idea what the code is? I did not delete it yet.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #13
As a followup. Upon running a search I found that code B0429 had to do with "rear air door not in commanded position". How does that relate to my problem?
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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This code is for the damper that feeds the rear passenger area between the seats. Clear it and see what happens. I would add (1) one can of 134A and see if that takes care of your problem as there aren't any codes for the drivers air blend door.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, Is the low pressure line the one towards the front of the car? I also thought I might as well get the AC kit with the gauge since 2.2 lbs is listed on the sticker. I ssume that i should not add a can of r134 if the pressure reading shows 2.2lbs? I appreciate all the help. This is going to be interesting if I do not need a dash removal after all. Just as a note of information there were some codes followed by "history" but I gather as long as they did not show up again they do not represent a current problem???
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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2.2 lbs is the total charge of the system. The High/low side ports on your car are different sizes,the smaller one is where you connect to charge the a/c. Read the directions that came with the kit/134a can.On my 2k Deville it is on the belt side and is the rear one. History codes are problems that were present at one time but have fixed themselves or have not happened again for a certain number of drive/ignition cycles. Normal pressures (depending on a variety of things such as ambient temp dirty evap/cond or bad fans) are about 35psi low side and 230 psi high side
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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FWIW, I have had some A/C codes go historical as soon as the A/C is shut off. B0429 is a rather common DTC. It is just telling you that the rear air blend door is not in the commanded position. It does not have to be off by much to set the code and may not even cause a noticeable problem.
 

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2009 CTS AWD DI 2014 AWD CTS DI
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks to you guys I am starting to feel like a mechanic. [sort of]. Anyway I cleared all the codes and picked up one of those large cans of R134A with the attached gauge. The reading showed low freon when attached and I emptied the whole can which brought it up into the lowside of the acceptable zone and guess what? The air started blowing cold. I will let my wife have the final say and see if it stays that way but at least things are looking up. By the way is there any reason to pick up an additional can of R134A to take the charge up into the high end of the acceptale zone shown on the gauge?
No party yet for you guys but I am starting to think about it. I really appreciate the assistance.
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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Charge it to mid high of the acceptable zone.That way there is less of a chance to overcharge it which would also result in no a/c.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok...so far so good according to the "boss". I do have one question. As I said above, after I was done emptying one of the large cans with the attached pressure gauge it showed the level to be just above the zone considered "safe". So I picked up a regular can of R134 today, attached the reusable gauge and hooked up to the AC port with the intent of adding enough to take it to the mid high range. Before adding any freon I was surprised to see the gauge reading right on the line where any additional would be overfilled. What's with that? Could the fact the car had just been run have anything to do with that much higher a reading than yesterday? It took a long time to move into the low end of the "safe" zone and then pops almost 3 times as far overnight and after being run af few miles????
 
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