Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2002 Cadillac DeVille. My A/C was working fine for a while except for the blower had to be randomly kicked to get it to start working. lol. But anyways, the blower is working fine now but the air has stopped getting cold! The strange thing is is that the A/C clutch is engaging fine, the fuses are fine, and the relays are also fine!
Oh, I forgot to mention that I THINK I might can feel the air blowing out of the vents getting colder when I am accelerating but only when I am accelerating hard.
I also pulled the DTC codes on the dash and these came out:
IPM B0429 CURRENT
IPM B1004 HISTORY
PCM P0140 CURRENT
PCM P0155 CURRENT
PCM P0463 HISTORY
PCM P1189 HISTORY
PCM P1634 HISTORY
SDM V1000 HISTORY

Also, I recently join Cadillac Forums and this is my first post so any and all help is greatly appreciated! Happy to be here! =)
 

·
-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
Joined
·
66,595 Posts
Sounds as if the refrigerant charge is a tad low. Best, most accurate fix is at a decent local automotive a/c shop. Using one of those gauge cans from a parts store usually leads to real trouble - our systems are real finicky about correct charge weight.

Bookmark the below link and use it to decipher trouble codes when you post them. We don't have all 4,000 codes memorized - yet.


The P 0140 and P 0155 are O2 sensor problems. Emissions fail and maybe fuel mixture problems.
Your O2 sensors are -
B2S1 is in the left (front) exhaust manifold collector
B1S1 is in the top of the right (rear) exhaust manifold
B1S2 is the after-cat sensor. Passenger side of the exhaust pipe

What is the trim level of your car ? base, DHS or DTS - it makes a difference in much advice and many parts replacements.

Welcome to CF !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sounds as if the refrigerant charge is a tad low. Best, most accurate fix is at a decent local automotive a/c shop. Using one of those gauge cans from a parts store usually leads to real trouble - our systems are real finicky about correct charge weight.

Bookmark the below link and use it to decipher trouble codes when you post them. We don't have all 4,000 codes memorized - yet.


The P 0140 and P 0155 are O2 sensor problems. Emissions fail and maybe fuel mixture problems.
Your O2 sensors are -
B2S1 is in the left (front) exhaust manifold collector
B1S1 is in the top of the right (rear) exhaust manifold
B1S2 is the after-cat sensor. Passenger side of the exhaust pipe

What is the trim level of your car ? base, DHS or DTS - it makes a difference in much advice and many parts replacements.

Welcome to CF !!!
Thank you for the quick reply! And I don't know the exact sub-model but my VIN is 1G6KD54Y72U216095. And I checked the low pressure line with a recharge cord that connects to the cans, because I don't have a set of gauges, and it was reading about 150 with the car off and the same with the car on and A/C running. The pressure doesn't change either. And this was checked about 15 minutes after I just got done driving. And the temp outside was about 79-85 degrees F.
Also, I am almost certain this gauge said the same pressure reading when the A/C was working fine.

Oh yea, and the condenser fan is working fine also.
 

·
-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
Joined
·
66,595 Posts
The 8th character of your VIN - a Y - says the car is either a base model or a DHS. What's the badge (if any) on the lower right trunk corner - DHS ? If no badge it's a base model.

That info makes a sometimes big difference in parts used for replacement/repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The 8th character of your VIN - a Y - says the car is either a base model or a DHS. What's the badge (if any) on the lower right trunk corner - DHS ? If no badge it's a base model.

That info makes a sometimes big difference in parts used for replacement/repair.
Only thing it says is DeVille and above that it says Spring edition?
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
Joined
·
18,806 Posts
Thank you for the quick reply! And I don't know the exact sub-model but my VIN is 1G6KD54Y72U216095. And I checked the low pressure line with a recharge cord that connects to the cans, because I don't have a set of gauges, and it was reading about 150 with the car off and the same with the car on and A/C running. The pressure doesn't change either. And this was checked about 15 minutes after I just got done driving. And the temp outside was about 79-85 degrees F.
Also, I am almost certain this gauge said the same pressure reading when the A/C was working fine.

Oh yea, and the condenser fan is working fine also.
==========================
I don't know the exact sub-model
1G6KD = BASE model Deville -
1G6KE = DHS model Deville -
1G6KF = DTS model Deville -

I don't have a set of gauges, and it was reading about 150 with the car off
and the same with the car on and A/C running

please don't take this the wrong way - BUT -
that response proves you have no experience with AC systems or how they work -

without the proper tools and knowledge
you can do a LOT of VERY expensive damage to the system - VERY quickly -
not to mention the possibility - PROBABILITY - of personal injury -

do yourself a BIG favor - take it to a shop and have them diagnose and fix the problem -
it WILL be cheaper than a trip to the EMERGENCY room -
 

·
-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
Joined
·
66,595 Posts
"Spring Edition" - must have been some sort of dealership come-on. It's not "Cadillac" badging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
==========================
I don't have a set of gauges, and it was reading about 150 with the car off
and the same with the car on and A/C running

please don't take this the wrong way - BUT -
that response proves you have no experience with AC systems or how they work -

without the proper tools and knowledge
you can do a LOT of VERY expensive damage to the system - VERY quickly -
not to mention the possibility - PROBABILITY - of personal injury -

do yourself a BIG favor - take it to a shop and have them diagnose and fix the problem -
it WILL be cheaper than a trip to the EMERGENCY room -
Definitely don't take that the wrong way, as I have no experience in the realm of A/C either and would definitely heed basscatt's advice!

The best option would be to do exactly as Sub prescribed, take her to a trusted mechanic and have them give her a recharge.

Additionally, I initially thought that the "Spring Edition" was definitely a dealer-installed option, similar to how my 2005 Deville Base is the "Gold Edition," also a dealer option consisting only of new gold badges throughout the car. However, a little research shows that the "Spring Edition" was actually a factory option in the early 90's, known primarily for its mock top - maybe your dealer decided to throw a few badges on your Deville as a special edition? If your 2002 is a mock top, I'd bet on that.

Lastly, welcome to the forums! You'll find that this is an excellent place to gain relevant knowledge about your Cadillac from people who know them inside an out, such as bass and Sub. When did you get your Deville, and how many miles?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
150 on low side, system off, 80 outside, is over filled. Same pressure with system in is a sign of damaged compressor, likely due to being over filled.

Take it to a mechanic or sometime with full guages to verify low and high pressures.
 

·
2004 Deville base
Joined
·
285 Posts

You have a fault code for this.
B0429
'0' amount of fix will come from messing with the refrigeration side of the system, until this is fixed. The refer side can be working perfect, and you will have hot air blowing on your foot/face/passenger/sporadic/constant,,,, maybe not tomorrow, maybe not when you like,,, toss a coin.

It is a common problem.

Great info/explanation, a must read for newbys/HVAC problems.
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
Joined
·
18,806 Posts
B0429 is when the back seat temperature SELECTION does not match the actual mix door position -

the solution is to replace the #2 - passenger side - mix door actuator -

it has a split shaft -
the large square-shaped shaft controls the passenger side mix door -
the small inner shaft has a "D" shaped hole that accepts the cable that controls the #3 - back seat mix door -

what happens is that the "D" shaped hole strips out and becomes round -
and can no longer turn the cable - to move the mix door -

--------------------

replacement is easy - simply remove the glove box -
the actuator is just to the left of the glove box -
 

·
2004 Deville base
Joined
·
285 Posts
"replacement is easy - simply remove the glove box -
the actuator is just to the left of the glove box -"

That can't be said loud enough/often enough...and it actually fixes the problem, many times it is the main/or most telling/annoying problem.

Those actuators on the drivers side are hateful!
:LOL:

On a serious note, mechanical side 1st, when that is squared away, the refrigeration side. Or burn money&time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
"replacement is easy - simply remove the glove box -
the actuator is just to the left of the glove box -"

That can't be said loud enough/often enough...and it actually fixes the problem, many times it is the main/or most telling/annoying problem.

Those actuators on the drivers side are hateful!
:LOL:

On a serious note, mechanical side 1st, when that is squared away, the refrigeration side. Or burn money&time.
Are you saying that the actuator is the reason why my AC isn't blowing cold or just the solution to the DTC code?
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
Joined
·
18,806 Posts
Are you saying that the actuator is the reason why my AC isn't blowing cold or just the solution to the DTC code?
=========================
I'll try to explain this as simply as possible -

the answer is BOTH -

the ACTUATOR moves a door between the HOT AIR side and the COLD AIR side -

IF the actuator doesn't do what it is supposed to do - a DTC set - pointing to the problem -

you must read and understand what the DTC is - and what its DEFINITION means -
in this particular case - the code is B0429 -
the DEFINITION is Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance -
I explained the code - the REASON for the code - and the SOLUTION -
in POST #11 -

--------------------

SO -
when you replace the actuator - this PARTICULAR PROBLEM will be solved -
and this PARTICULAR CODE will be gone -

HOWEVER -
you have OTHER problems with the system NOT creating COLD -
MEANING - even though the #3 - back seat - actuator is now functioning PERFECTLY -
you still won't get cold air UNTIL the OTHER refrigeration issues are PROPERLY addressed -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #15

You have a fault code for this.
B0429
'0' amount of fix will come from messing with the refrigeration side of the system, until this is fixed. The refer side can be working perfect, and you will have hot air blowing on your foot/face/passenger/sporadic/constant,,,, maybe not tomorrow, maybe not when you like,,, toss a coin.

It is a common problem.

Great info/explanation, a must read for newbys/HVAC problems.
I noticed today that there definitely is hot air coming out at the floor vents. But it is only noticeable when the ac is actually turned off. I dunno if that helps solve anything but figured I'd mention it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
=========================
I'll try to explain this as simply as possible -

the answer is BOTH -

the ACTUATOR moves a door between the HOT AIR side and the COLD AIR side -

IF the actuator doesn't do what it is supposed to do - a DTC set - pointing to the problem -

you must read and understand what the DTC is - and what its DEFINITION means -
in this particular case - the code is B0429 -
the DEFINITION is Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance -
I explained the code - the REASON for the code - and the SOLUTION -
in POST #11 -

--------------------

SO -
when you replace the actuator - this PARTICULAR PROBLEM will be solved -
and this PARTICULAR CODE will be gone -

HOWEVER -
you have OTHER problems with the system NOT creating COLD -
MEANING - even though the #3 - back seat - actuator is now functioning PERFECTLY -
you still won't get cold air UNTIL the OTHER refrigeration issues are PROPERLY addressed -
So first repair step would be to replace the passenger side actuator then go from there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
This is the same as how mine started out, except it doesn't sound like you have the clicking sound from the bad gear. The only thing you need to do for this operation is take off the back cover plate in glove box, glove door and the inside liner of glove box. There is 2 little screws holding the actuator in place. You will also need some needle nose plier to pinch together the plastic piece holding the arm in place which goes on the actuator. Pull off the electrical plug and replace with new part. For me the hardest part of this job was getting the little plastic piece off the arm. All in all, it's about a 30-60 min. project, pending if you feel like cleaning off some dust in the dash area before installing the glovie. Like I said in my post on this same subject. Night and day as to how the air blows out now after replacing actuator.
Something else that might help you out, is I used a little mirror to locate the screws on the left and right side of the actuator.
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
Joined
·
18,806 Posts
So first repair step would be to replace the passenger side actuator then go from there?
======================
just keep in mind that the B0429 code - and the FIX - to replace the actuator -
ONLY affects the BACK SEAT temperature control -
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top