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    1. · Registered
      98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
      Joined
      ·
      8,479 Posts

      Same exact load tester used for decades. About the best price I've seen anywhere too.

      If you're looking for a tester shows cca, health, volts, etc look elsewhere.
       
    1. · Registered
      Magoo—2012 Cadillac CTS Luxury, Opulent Blue, plus many more, see signature.
      Joined
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      526 Posts
      Is this the "Harbor Freight Load Tester" you have? 100A 6/12v Battery Load Tester

      Here's what you really need to do. You say you have a charger? Disconnect the battery ground cable, better if you can take the battery out of the car entirely. Connect your charger to the battery and run the charger on the lowest amp setting it has (2 amps is common, sometimes 1 amp). Charge the battery for 4 hours or so, then check the meter on the charger. If the meter has fallen to less than one amp (or gone to the "fully charged" green end of the scale if it's marked that way), disconnect the charger and measure the battery voltage with a volt meter. If you don't have a volt meter, you can connect it to the car and check the DIC display and get the voltage there by scrolling to the "battery voltage" display. Ideally it should be over 12.5 volts, but anything over 12 is good enough for an older battery. Then,if you have the load tester I linked to above, disconnect the battery from the car again and use the load tester on the battery. It should read up above 12 volts (in the green "good" range) for a new(ish) battery. It should definitely read in the green range for "600" or even "800" range for the batteries in these cars.

      You could also use another vehicle to carry the battery only back to the parts place and have them charge and test it if they can do that inside the store, with just the battery.

      Replace the battery if it's weak. If it fails the test, take pics with your phone or whatever of how it's failing. You'll need to show the service folks at the dealership that they missed a weak/failing battery. Then it's going to be an uphill fight with them to get your original alternator back and a full refund, or a new genuine GM alternator back in the car and some kind of refund. Even if the alternator they installed was exactly what AdvanceAutoParts website claims it is, it was never what I'd call "good." You don't want that alternator they installed, even if a new battery solves the problem for a while. The absolute least I'd settle for was a 2 year written warranty from the dealer that if that alternator fails within 2 years, they'll replace the part with a genuine GM alternator and do the installation for free. You don't pay for a replacement part, and you don't pay for the labor. Get that all in writing. Anything less than that and you're getting cheated.

      A bad battery will cause all of the error messages you were seeing in the DIC. In these cars, it can also cause hard steering and some strange noises from the steering rack. These cars have electronically controlled power steering, and if the battery voltage is insufficient, that system can report errors, drop into a "limp" mode, and do other weird things to your steering.

      A weak battery won't cause low power steering fluid, though. If you check the power steering fluid and it's low, you have (a) leak(s) in your power steering system somewhere. It might be a leaking hose, it might be a leaking pump, or it could be a leaking rack. A good independent shop can handle everything there, although replacing the rack is a lot of work, and a GM "original equipment" rack is over $900 from discounters on the internet like RockAuto.
       
    1. · Registered
      '93 SedanDeville 60 Special
      Joined
      ·
      1,344 Posts
      I purchased a 2013 Cad CTS luxury with 77,000 miles on it. Days after i bought it sat for 2 days and the battery was dead, took to dealer for new battery, in was a ac champion, they put the same kind back in it. Did the same, dead again after 2 days. Took to cad dealer and had a ac delco battery installed, gold. Well vehicle dead again, took to dealer to check, said battery was good, alternator was good, and was only drawing 10 millmeters. Still dead battery after two days of sitting. I dont drive everyday and no more then 20 miles a day. I don't even lock the doors at night, have remote away from car in bedroom. When I do drive it a few miles, the battery reads 11.7 then when driving show 15.2 to 15.2 charging. Anyone have the same problem or a idea what is going. I was told by dealer to bring it back to keep over night to see what is going on with the battery drain. Could it be a bad battery that won't hold a charge? Could i possibly not be driving enough to keep the battery charged. Ive never had a vehicle that the battery would go dead sitting for 2 days.
      Vehicles have many controllers and some need to use D/C even when vehicle is off to retain settings
      Also uses very small relays and over time they can become sticky and end up in a closed contact state so even if what it connects with is off but the contacts of relay are shut causing voltage/current drain

      Best case is now and then is anything that is moved by electronics, seats, windows, mirrors, etc
      is adjust them to cause relays to change state.

      Vehicles while off can drain like bit less then 1/2 AMP per day.
      Best is to use a battery tender, not a charger as that can overcharge and cook battery cells.

      As example when I did not use a tender on my GM vehicles over 3-4 days battery cells get weak and charge is lower
      Since I added and use tenders on two GM vehicles for last 20 years both batteries are still good.

      To save fuel and take load off the crank the PCM commands when and how much the Alternate outputs
      This can be checked in couple of minutes using a OBD-II scanner and monitor the PCM parameter that does the commands, what Alt output is and see if it is commanding and if the ALT is responding

      It is known when Alt go bad the wrong type is put in that does NOT react when PCM commands so assure correct ALT is installed.

      Spend like $40, for like this multi meter below that uses a clamp and it can measure A/C or D/C current loads.
      Simply open clamp, put around negative cable of battery and see what the current loads are

      Most vehicles of GM are set to maintain voltage for like 15 minutes after vehicle is turned off
      After that controllers should go to a sleep mode and then current load drops to like 200-300 mAmps draw.

      Put meter on, turn key off, write down ASAP what the amp draw reports,

      Leave meter on, wait good 15 mins and then see what the amp draw is

      If current load has not dropped then come controller did not go to sleep mode or some relay is stuck closed contact.

      Since most vehicle batteries sold in the USA are NOT made in this country it is normal to get 2 or more new ones to find it has at least one weak cell that will never recover

      Spend $20 like at Harbor Freight, they sell a battery load tester,
      Current meter

      Load tester

      Takes like 30 seconds, connect to battery posts, push a button for like 20 seconds, and see on it's meter what the voltage reports and then after releasing the button if and what the voltage level is, did it go back to good state or not

      If some controller is wacky, does nto go to sleep when it should that means it also chatters on the vehicles data network which then wake up other controllers which then means more current draw.
      Using OBD-II scanner monitor the state of the network (CANN and or GMLAN) and see if chatter is going on all the time and if there is being reported OBD-II "U" comm codes

      If so locate who is not shutting up and resolve that

      Lastly is it possible the starter is weak and is dragging voltage down on startup ?
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      42 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #18 ·
      Vehicles have many controllers and some need to use D/C even when vehicle is off to retain settings
      Also uses very small relays and over time they can become sticky and end up in a closed contact state so even if what it connects with is off but the contacts of relay are shut causing voltage/current drain

      Best case is now and then is anything that is moved by electronics, seats, windows, mirrors, etc
      is adjust them to cause relays to change state.

      Vehicles while off can drain like bit less then 1/2 AMP per day.
      Best is to use a battery tender, not a charger as that can overcharge and cook battery cells.

      As example when I did not use a tender on my GM vehicles over 3-4 days battery cells get weak and charge is lower
      Since I added and use tenders on two GM vehicles for last 20 years both batteries are still good.

      To save fuel and take load off the crank the PCM commands when and how much the Alternate outputs
      This can be checked in couple of minutes using a OBD-II scanner and monitor the PCM parameter that does the commands, what Alt output is and see if it is commanding and if the ALT is responding

      It is known when Alt go bad the wrong type is put in that does NOT react when PCM commands so assure correct ALT is installed.

      Spend like $40, for like this multi meter below that uses a clamp and it can measure A/C or D/C current loads.
      Simply open clamp, put around negative cable of battery and see what the current loads are

      Most vehicles of GM are set to maintain voltage for like 15 minutes after vehicle is turned off
      After that controllers should go to a sleep mode and then current load drops to like 200-300 mAmps draw.

      Put meter on, turn key off, write down ASAP what the amp draw reports,

      Leave meter on, wait good 15 mins and then see what the amp draw is

      If current load has not dropped then come controller did not go to sleep mode or some relay is stuck closed contact.

      Since most vehicle batteries sold in the USA are NOT made in this country it is normal to get 2 or more new ones to find it has at least one weak cell that will never recover

      Spend $20 like at Harbor Freight, they sell a battery load tester,
      Current meter

      Load tester

      Takes like 30 seconds, connect to battery posts, push a button for like 20 seconds, and see on it's meter what the voltage reports and then after releasing the button if and what the voltage level is, did it go back to good state or not

      If some controller is wacky, does nto go to sleep when it should that means it also chatters on the vehicles data network which then wake up other controllers which then means more current draw.
      Using OBD-II scanner monitor the state of the network (CANN and or GMLAN) and see if chatter is going on all the time and if there is being reported OBD-II "U" comm codes

      If so locate who is not shutting up and resolve that

      Lastly is it possible the starter is weak and is dragging voltage down on startup ?
      Thank you i will try that. i will get the multi meter and i have a autel abs/srs obd11
       
    1. · Registered
      2007 CTS 3.6 >151k miles
      Joined
      ·
      1,166 Posts
      This^
      Either take it somewhere (if possible) or get a cheap one from HF. Or just buy a new battery if the current unit is questionable or 3+ years old.

      Note that I had a battery that tested borderline good but still wouldn't start the car. Symptoms were similar to yours...all the lights came on but wouldn't turn the starter.
       

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