V6: 3.0, 3.2 LA3, 3.6 LY7, 3.6 DI LLT Discussion, Anyone know what it could be? in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Sorry if I'm posting this in the around place. I'm still new here & don't know where anything goes. Anyways. ...
Sorry if I'm posting this in the around place. I'm still new here & don't know where anything goes. Anyways. Have a 04 CTS I recently got. Just put new breaks & rodars on it & this weekend my uncle is fixing my rear bushing & changing all my Gage's (I think that's what they're called). But 3 weeks ago my car wouldn't start my dad tried to jump it for me & still nothing. So I figured battery is completely dead. I took it to auto zone to buy a new battery but they tell me the battery is good. So I'm like DAMMIT. I called for the car to come get towed & while we were waiting my dad was in the car & did a trick he said he learned from working at a car shop. Which is putting the car in neutral pushing the gas all the way & starting the car & BAM the car started right up. I was so happy. That was about 3 weeks ago. Now yesterday it did the same thing again. :'( Had to do the start trick. Anybody know what it could be? My dad said he doesn't think it's the starter because the car has no problems turning on like the engine starts right up. Except for those 2 times. Really hoping its nothing too bad. If anybody know what is it please do tell! & Sorry for the long message.
Woops I meant gaskets. Not Gage's. Lol I'm a girl, so I guess that'll explain my mistake. Lol
Pumping the gas does nothing for a fuel injected engine, and pushing it to the floor while starting actually disables the injectors. The "trick" may be working because you're putting the car in neutral, there may be seething wrong with the neutral safety switch/PRNDL switch. Go to AutoZone and have them pull your codes. List them, AND THEIR DEFINITIONS, here.
For any electronic problem, before spending money at the garage or at the dealers, the first thing to do is to connect a good AUTOMATIC battery charger to your battery and give it a slow charge (10 amps or less) for a long time (the whole night or more) even if your battery is strong enough to crank your engine. I suggest you do that a few nights in a row, to make sure your battery voltage is strong enough to supply your electronic system with a steady voltage higher than 12 volts. If your battery is to old, better spend money on a new one than spending a lot more money on changing the ECM, ECU, or any other electronic device in your car. Most of the problems should be solved. If not, than go to your dealer, but make sure you have a lot of money in your pocket.
Now, if you want to reset the ECU or ECM, here is the good and safe way to do it:
First you,ve got to know that your ignition switch has 4 different positions; "A", "B", "C" and "D".
"A" = fully off (you can pull out your key), "B" = off (you can't pull out your key), "C" = ON (all the lights are ON in you dash board), "D" = cranking position.
1.- Turn the ignition switch to "A" or "B" position if "A" is not possible.
2.- Remove the fuse panel lid. (The fuse panel should be in the engine compartment, passenger side, near the radiator)
3.- Pull out the fuse labeled "ECM" or "ECU" (You may use a pair of long nose plyers or the small plastic tool that's allready in the fuse box) (The inside of the fuse panel li d shows a chart indicating where each fuse is located)
4.- Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (position "C") (be carefull not to go as far as cranck position "D").
5.- Leave it like that and wait at least 5 minutes.
6.- Turn the ignition key to "OFF" position ( it should go to "A" position)
7.- Replace the fuse carefully into its slot in the fuse panel. Press it down until it is fully inserted. Replace the fuse box cover