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5K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  terrible one 
#1 ·
I found the cause of my S073. LOL. That was some MEAN rust around that area.
Don't worry, I'm getting the rust taken care of.
 

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#5 ·
That is the passenger side rear accellerometer. S073 means RR accellerometer fault. LOL.

The car spent most of its life in NY where they salt the roads to melt the ice. When it was shipped to HI there was salt stuck underneath the rear end which started to attract moisture as soon as it entered the more humid climate. Thus, a rust bucket was born. Have no fear though, Ospho is here, and a coupe gallons of black rustolium paint. LOL
 
#8 ·
I decided to try my luck with repairing the old one before getting a new one.
What I did so far was;
1. Chipped off all loose rust
2. Sprayed the whole thing down with Corrosion Block (pic in link), and waited for it to dry.
3. Then I filled the hole with, silicon culking, and I'm waiting for that to dry now.
4. Next I'm going to spray paint it and install it. :cool:

Sorry about the huge pic size.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_0343.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_0341.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_0340.jpg

I thought it would be better to just post links to the pictures than to attach them to this board (because they are BIG).
 
#9 ·
MIne rusted through last year. I replaced it with a new one and dissected the old one. All the electronics are encapsulated by a clear potting compound but moisture still got in through a small void in the compound and corroded the circuit board. It was unsalvagable.

Peteski
 
#11 ·
terrible one said:
So Krashed was it saveable?
I don't know yet... After filling the hole with culking, I began to read the bottle, and I was stunned to find out that I now have to wait 7 to 14 days for it to dry... So now the waiting game has started.

Can't wait till I see if it works again though. I'll post back with the results... In 7 to 14 days... :coffee:
 
#12 ·
Sorry Krashed I dont' want to burst your bubble but...
Sealing the corroded opening will not make the electronics inside suddenly start working again. Once moisture was able to get in - that's it! Its broken forever.

Just like if you were to open a can of soup, then just seal the cover again with caulking. Even though it is sealed again, the soup will go bad in few days. Once you get the air in it'll spoil the soup weather the can is sealed again or not.

Peteski
 
#13 ·
peteski said:
Sorry Krashed I dont' want to burst your bubble but...
Sealing the corroded opening will not make the electronics inside suddenly start working again. Once moisture was able to get in - that's it! Its broken forever.

Just like if you were to open a can of soup, then just seal the cover again with caulking. Even though it is sealed again, the soup will go bad in few days. Once you get the air in it'll spoil the soup weather the can is sealed again or not.

Peteski

I know. I was just kinda testing the abilities of that corrosion block spray, that I got at GasPro. I used it on some rusted wires that didn't have any continuity at all, and it gave them continuity. So I guess thats what I'm hoping will fix the accellerometer. The culking was just to seal it after I was done with the corrosion block spray on the inside and outside.

I'm still waiting for the culking to dry, and I'll post back with the results.
 
#14 ·
OMFG!!!! IT WORKED!!! I just reinstalled it today, and went for a really long drive through the most curvy and bumpy roads I knew of. I have no codes and I am completely astonished. This just made my day, now I don't have to buy a new one. YAY!!

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:



I guess I'll just see how long it lasts now....
 
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