which rotors and brakes should I get?
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Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, which rotors and brakes should I get? in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Im wanting to replace my squeeky brakes on my 40 deville. I do alot of highway driving for work and ...
  1. #1
    biggyal66 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Im wanting to replace my squeeky brakes on my 40 deville. I do alot of highway driving for work and weekend trips. I found these on ebay. what do you guys think? or any other suggestions?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-C...3a9144&vxp=mtr

    or

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-K...9d5cd9&vxp=mtr

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    r1concepts's Avatar
    r1concepts is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    You can always purchase rotors and pads through me as well since I am a vendor on here and you get my products at a discounted price as well. PM or email me at
    Kevin@r1concepts.com and I'd be glad to help you out.

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    biggyal66 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Kevin, I just sent you an email.

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    r1concepts's Avatar
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Just received it. Thank you.

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    biggyal66 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Any word on brake options?

  7. #6
    r1concepts's Avatar
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Sorry if I haven't got to you yet, been real busy ever since I got in. You emailed me right? It's because I can't find your email that you sent me. Can you forward me what I sent you last time we talked? Please and thank you.

  8. #7
    Toiuys is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    The holes and slots of a rotor can also graze the pad material, which will decrease pad life but also help maintain heat in the pad (critical for track pads). Note that the Turner Motorsport rotors have their holes and slots chambered to allow smooth transit of the pad over the rotor surface.

  9. #8
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    For brake info and ideas, talk to r1concepts, one of our member vendors.

    It's "chamfered" and many sport rotor makers and rebranders do it. Slots tend to create an air noise "whirrrrrrr" on prolonged high speed braking - nature of the beast. Drilled and slotted is plain bling overkill.

    Slots are designed to move heat and debris away from the rotor and pads, decreasing glazing and scoring. A good set of ceramic pads and rotors will last as long as or longer than OEM units under normal driving conditions - but go to autocross or track days and, whether OEM or aftermarket, all brake bets are off.

    New brakes or brakes hot from high speed braking or test stops: DO NOT come to a complete stop or, if you must, put the stick in P and take your foot off the brake: Hot rotors transfer pad material resins to the rotors and that's what causes brake judder, not "warping". Rotors are machined from cast (gray) iron - why ? Because cast iron does not warp.

    To dispel a lot of brake myth, do some surfing through the EBC brake site - yes, they make all sorts of brakes, but their info is pretty straightforward and does not tend toward self-advertisement as do most other aftermarket manufacturer sites.

    www.ebcbrakes.com - left column, automotive, pad and rotor info. Many links at the bottom of the pages, too, or this one - http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/index.shtml

  10. #9
    Caddy-EaRL's Avatar
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    Most that info is correct. However, cast iron does indeed warp. Rotors warp, cast iron skillets warp, cast iron heads warp. You take a rotor off a car because it has a bad pulsation when braking. You Put it on the brake lathe and take oh say .004 off and stop lathe. Half the rotor is cut clean, the other half has been untouched by the lathe bits. If the rotor wasn't warped, how could this be possible?

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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Instead of yet again , go through a few brake manufacturer websites and study .......... here's one ........

    http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

  12. #11
    Caddy-EaRL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409
    Instead of yet again , go through a few brake manufacturer websites and study .......... here's one ........

    http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
    No need. 30 years of doing brakes. I know, rotors warp. I even installed a new set that were warped out of the box. No friction transfer on them. Main cause: unevenly torqued lug nuts. It's fact. Google it. I'm not disputing friction transfer, I'm saying rotors do warp, it's proven fact. If you have resurfaced the multitude of rotors that I have over the past 30 years, you'd know what I am talking about. When you put a rotor on the lathe and it takes .040 just to get it true, that's not friction transfer, it's warped. Same as .020. There's not that much friction built up on one half of the surface of a rotor. It's warped. For the record, using the term warped simply covers several terms such as out of round, excessive runout, unparalleled...

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    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Caddy-EaRL View Post
    For the record, using the term warped simply covers several terms such as out of round, excessive runout, unparalleled...
    Glad you clarified your misuse of the term "warp". Every brake diagnostic referenced in all the brake threads cautions the repairing person to check the rotor for those same mechanical defects ^^^.

    For some reason, these FWD cars are susceptible to improper lug nut torque - the recommended procedure is to build up to 100 lb/ft in a crisscross star pattern. That alone will "cure" many complaints of vibration or poor brake performance.

    http://www.thefreedictionary.com/warping

  14. #13
    Caddy-EaRL's Avatar
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    I didn't misuse anything.. I have removed rotors where the rotor surface is in the shape of a ( . Happenes all the time, and it's warped. It's something you will never see by reading about brakes and not doing brakes on hundreds of thousands of cars over a 30 year period. You keep telling people rotors don't warp, and I'll keep fixing the cars that have them.

  15. #14
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
    MoistCabbage is offline Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Uneven runout, or the shape of the wear in a rotor, have nothing to do with "warpage". Even brake manufacturers will tell you rotors can't warp. They're made of cast iron. Race cars heat the rotors red hot all day long. The pit crew doesn't have to change the rotors along with the tires...

  16. #15
    Submariner409's Avatar
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    Re: which rotors and brakes should I get?

    "My mind is made up - please don't confuse me with facts .............."

    "hundreds of thousands of cars over a 30 year period" implies a multiple - lets' say, for argument, 300,000. That's 10,000 a year, 250 work days, or about 40 brake jobs a day. Quite impressive, and hard to equal. Even in my on/off automotive career spanning ~59 years I doubt that I have done 500 disc brake jobs, total.......... and that would still be 8.5 jobs a year, average........... and when you factor in the phase-in timetable for automotive disc brake use in the U.S. the numbers/day become even more compressed.

    Earl, No one is disputing that disc brakes can suffer from a whole list of problems that cause rattles and shakes - but there's an awful lot of paper - done, researched and published - by the brake manufacturers themselves, that discounts the "warp" theory.

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