Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, 94-95 Deville (base) rear shock solution!!!! in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Ok. It took me a little while but I was able to get regular $63.99 air shocks from Autozone to ...
Ok. It took me a little while but I was able to get regular $63.99 air shocks from Autozone to replace those stock Cadillac self leveling shocks. No need for the electrical junk to the shocks, no need for the pump. Only thing you will have to get on your own besides the shocks themselves are the relay to turn the suspension service off on your dash. You will also need to purchase the washers that are on the stock shocks. I did not feel like going to a hardware store trying to find them, so I bought two of the Strut Rod Bushing Kits also from Autozone, at $10.99 each. I only used the washers though, not the bushings. I didnt even use all the bushings that came with the shocks I bought, only used one. It will go up in the hole on top of the straight stem after you put the two bottom washers on. Then you put the two top washers and the lockwasher and the nut on and tighten it. When you let your vehicle down after installing these shocks, the bushing will be equally "smushed" (if thats what you want to refer to it as) or compressred, on either side. Free of slippuing. You will have very very slight and MINIMAL play in the stem itself, not to fear though. It shouldnt go anywhere. Unless you plan on going 4 wheeling in your Deville or something like that.
The part number for the shocks are Gabriel Hijackers, part number 49205. These I know will fit on a 1976 Mercury Cougar, or a I believe 65-67 Chevrolet Nova. You will also need the bushing kit (only for the washers) for the 1995 Deville specifically. I did keep the bushings, (the bushings that came with the 95 Deville Strut Rod Bushing kit's') just incase I happened to decide to want to buy the $300.00 shocks. Do note the only reason I did this "southern engineering" is due to not having the funds at the moment to purchase the $300.00 passive shocks from Arnott, or Suncore. It is a total investment of about $85 as opposed to the $300.00 or more for the passive shocks. In my case I would have also had to purchase a new pump. I did leave everything on my car, so that if I decide to do it, I do not have to purchase new wiring and all. I would recommend doing the same for yourself.
The ride with these shocks, I am sure is not near what it was in 1995 when the car was brand new. But to me, someone who has been riding basically with no shocks due to them never being inflated because the pump was bad, and the shocks leaked anyway. It is very much more comfortable to me. I can actually have people in the back seat without my tires hitting the fender wells, or the car bottoming out damaging and causing leaks to the gas tank. Which I have had to replace the gas tank once as well.
The only real PROBLEM(S) with this is the part number I have mentioned for the Air Shocks, the stem is not long enough to input the original bushings from the bushing kit you will need solely for the washers. If you wanted I am sure you could look around there and see if they have any of them same shocks with a stem that is maybe an inch longer. One more inch and you would most likely be able to put all the bushings on it and be extra certain (not that you have to worry if you dont really) that it will not dislodge or something like that. Also, if you cannot remove the shock nut on the top of the shock after removing the road sensing pigtail. You will either have to disassemble the entire thing to get the shock removed. Or use a cutting torch to cut the nut off and remove the shock that way. Knocking out the washer that was ontop of the shock once you remove the shock. The drivers side of the car took us about 2 hours because we were frankly scared we would blow the car up with the gas tank fill line being right there behind a somewhat thin piece of plastic. But we were ok. The passenger side took less than 5 minutes. Do note if you use the cutting torch it is very difficult for you to see what you are doing. It might sound like a pain to most of you but to me it saved me atleast $400.00 to do this at least temporarily until I can get the right parts and everything to replace it all "Cadillac" style.
I personally am happy with it the way it is now. It sits higher, looks kinda mean for a Cadillac too. If I just had some 50's on the back I might be able to fool some people into thinking its a really fast Cadillac.
Anyways, hope this helps some of you who may be seeking the ever low cost solution to replacing your shocks. They are manual fill of course. 25psi minimum, and 200p.s.i maximum. I have approximately 100psi in mine. Sits nicely, rides way better than bottoming out and stuff. Maybe not true Cadillac ride, but I havent known what thats like so I am not bickering much. I have had problems with my shocks with my Deville since I bought it a year ago. And also only paid $1000.00 for it to begin with. I do feel sorry for those who own the 2005 CTS and vehicles like that. Their shocks are almost $700.00 alone!!!
Anyway hope this helps some of you, or at least a couple of you. Good luck.
Just thought I would update this thread for anyone who might be interested in using this method to put rear shocks on their vehicle to either eliminate the need for the air pump and the $300-???? shocks.
As for the stem not being long enough, I did have it rigged up with only one small bushing on each side of the car on the shocks. I did about a week later find something called Shock Strut Rod Extenders. Mainly used for lift kits. But the extenders are two inches long. Come in a set of 2 for roughly $6 at autozone. You slap those babies on the shocks I mentioned above (Gabriel HiJackers part # 49205) and it will make them 2 inches longer. You will have to either gather up some other nuts to build up a bushing with, or buy bushing material that you can cut to preference yourself in order to have it where the bushings (factory replacements you get at autozone) that go on the shocks themselves are secure and tight. I used extra nuts I had lying around. I didnt even think of going and buying the tube bushing material that I could cut to fit. So I do hear an occasional click or clack over some bumps. Due to those nuts being on the stem in use as an extra bushing so that the nut has the thread to secure the shocks, the nut that is on top to tighten up on them. Just wanted to update this for anybody who may be interested in doing this. Your total investment if you do all the work yourself is about $100 give or take. For me it was more affordable, and I am happy with it. I dont think I will have that car forever, so I am not looking into dumping boat loads of money into it. So use your own discretion if you decide to do this. You will have to work your wrenches and stuff to tighten them up, not going to lie. May scrape your knuckle a little bit, but if you are wanting to save money you will certainly feel pleased.
Yeah I know what you mean. Dont be discouraged. If you want manual air for that just make think of older heavy cars, and look for air shocks that will adapt with yours. Strut extenders played a very important role in getting the bushings that need to be on my original shocks on to the manual fill shocks that I had installed. Without them I only had the one small single bushing that came with the manual fill shock on it. Which, it was in there good smashed and stuff. But, it was very small. If it were to dislodge could be very horrendous for me. But now it has the regular bushings like the ones that were on the factory shocks. Your welcome. Wish you the best of getting it done with your Eldorado. Dont get discouraged though man. You can put something together, just might take you a while to look at autozone.com, napa, or oreilly to see the right parts and get the right idea. Once I get the money up in this little tough economy to buy the shocks from strutmaster or arnott i might do that, but for now, my southern engineering is perfect for me.