Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, Service stability sys, c1214, c1248, help! in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; So, Texas had a record setting number of days over 100 degrees. On some of these days, my car would ...
So, Texas had a record setting number of days over 100 degrees. On some of these days, my car would randomly give me a "Service Stability Sys" message on startup and lit up the ABS, Brake!, and Traction Control indicators.
ABS Codes: C1214, and C1248 (sets because of the former).
Restarting would almost always get rid of that.
During the high temperature days it started coming on more frequently (twice a week, restarting would not make it go away).
I thought maybe coolant (used to have the crossover leak) or some debris had gotten in the EBTCM plug (Electronic Brake, Traction Control, Module) or whatever since the problem was intermittent.
So, I decided to clean the plug by unplugging it and spraying electric parts cleaner.
I found part of the switch cover (inner, by the pins) crumbled. I put it back together and the message, which was not present when I started, became permanent.
I then, invested further hours taking the EBTCM apart (separated from the brake modulator valve), and spraying electronics parts cleaner thinking maybe that would help. Nothing. Hours wasted! At least now I know how to replace it.
So... I took a voltometer to measure resistance, and found that upper pins 6,7 showed to be grounded to each other? THen I found a lot of the pins in the bottom are also grounded together. I am not sure this is normal... I traced the harness as far up as I could (not very far) and it looked OK.
Next I am going to check the fuses (on the tip of a corvette forum)! Other than that I am not sure if replacing the EBTCM will yield the results I am looking for (in case it's the harness).
Were those codes setting as current when the light came on?
I am reading the charts but I am pretty tired and I kind of injured myself today so I am fighting some pain also.
One issue is that you said the thing in the connector crumbled. That is not good, those pins really need the TPA (plastic cover piece) to keep them aligned so they mate properly with the pins in the EBCM.
With the TPA out those pins can move about quite a bit in the connector. It is possible that they are moving together because the TPA is gone. Please identify how you determined that they are shorted together?
You have to disconnect what is on the other end to be sure to get accurate resutls.
The C1248 is kind of vague, it calls out several things that would turn on the red brake warning lamp. Has it been on?
What do you get when you do a code check now?
EBCMs do not fail that often, don't go spending any money until we check this over.
I can help but I am reallly busy so you'll have to move slowly and be patient.
Uh, another EBTCM open…that brings back some memory for one year ago.
Ok so that EBTCM looks miles different from the one I got in my car. Mine has just 6 solenoid valves and on the PCB are 2 relays (BOSCH if it matters). From what it appears, that code:
C1214 - System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
indicates a faulty relay. So is that PCB glued on the aluminum casting (appears that way), is it possible to have a relay on the other side of the board? If not do you have a diagram of the EBTCM connector on a Deville. Maybe the relays are external to the EBTCM (from the pictures it does not seems to be enough space to have some relays on the other side) in witch case I believe the EBTCM might be fine. So let me know if you have a link or an image of an EBTCM diagram (I am talking about the EBTCM connection diagram, not the internal one). I would like to have a look over that and see what is going on.
The other code:
C1248 - EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On
is just a consequence of the first one so the key is C1214.
Also is very common in the circuits boards with vibrations (like a transformer soldered on a PCB), the soldering joints develop minute cracks so although even with a magnifier glass the connections seem fine there is a crack. So if you have a soldering station re-solder every connection accessible (those solenoid valves do produce vibrations).
What I am more worried about is a hairline crack on the solder point of one of the EBTCM connector pins on the PCB…that would be darm hard to fix.
Let me know how it goes!
Thanks for the help eWill and very sorry about the injury, hope it's not too serious! you may try crushing up some aspirin and mixing it up into some lotion and rubbing it on the hurt areas (Assuming they're not open wounds). Now onto your questions:
Yup the codes are both current, and yes when the illuminated warning lights come on. You're also correct that the only reason 1248 is coming on is because of the 1214, both show up as current anytime the message is on (all the time now, after "cleaning the plug"). There are no other ABS codes.
Yes a blue plastic cover on the inside (pins side) crumbled. I will see what I can do about getting another one. Not sure how, but maybe will ask at the dealer.
With the plug unplugged, I used a multimeter on the actual plug pin sleeves, and that's how I determined they were grounded on each other. 6 and 7 on each other and with a few of the bottom ones (meaning this is either normal, or some wires melted together up on the harness toward the coolant crossover which had a leak corrected by the coolant supplement tabs). I even slid the purple and white (six and seven) out of the connector and tested them outside, and sure enough they are grounded somewhere up in the harness (this may be a normal finding).
If I had to replace that harness, it looks like quite the job in terms of accessibility. Thanks again for the help!
The dealer will look at you like you are speaking Chinese if you ask them for that part. I am not sure where you'd get one except to order the connector body itself. I might be able to get you a part number if you want one.
I can walk you through replacing the connector body if you want.
Without looking at the schematics I'd say maybe you are measuring some sort of component and thinking you have harness problems. I doubt you do. As I said you have to unplug whatever is on the other end to know if the wires are shorted together or not. You might want to get a reading like that.
You could have a bad EBTCM there, sometimes the power relay goes bad and it is integrated into the module.
My eyes (and your picture) aren't too good. Read me that part number.
I might have one laying around
Thank you eWill, the topical aspirin will help swelling and soreness, sounds odd but it works.
As you say it's probably the EBTCM, re-reading the trouble code it is the system relay power that is causing the issue (voltage less than 8 volts for 0.23 seconds).
Lol and sorry about the picture, it's from my phone without autofocus. Here are the numbers on the EBTCM: Model 12218160/25738080 please let me know what you find!
And N*Caddy, here's the connector diagram. I didn't have this with me at the time, but 6 and 7 are the white and purple that seem grounded on eachother. I didn't take note of the others (on the very bottom, that were grounded against these two either). As eWill says, I would have to unplug the source, as it's possible that this is fully a normal condition, unless they seem grounded when all is unplugged (I'm just repeating things out loud here to make sure I'm understanding--if I'm wrong please correct lol).
Thank you very much. It was so frustrating to do all the work down there, in the heat down here (90s this week), only to find no resolution.
The interesting part is the intermittency of the issue up until I unplugged it (possibly it was hanging by a thread, and the unplugging it, was the straw that broke the camel's back).
This same intermittent on off used to happen with my AC clutch diode (located on the harness of the plug to the AC compressor clutch in my 98 Eldorado Touring Coupe. On hot days it would kick off and on, other days it was fine, there was probably a crack in the diode itself, and heat for some reason aggravates it.
I'd have to see a schematic but testing from 6 to 7 with an ohm meter and the battery connected might give you a reading like that.
One of those is communication and the other is a switched battery signal.
I actually have that EBCM sitting right here. The part numbers match.
PM me and maybe I can ship this one to you. Long story behind it but I am sure it is good.
As for the connector...you have the part number right there on that picture, if nothing else you can buy the connector, install the TPA that will come with it and be done or swap the connector body if you so desire.
Steering wheel position sensors do go bad but they'll set a different code.
i know its been a while since you guys talked about the EBCM -- does that part number ebcm fit a 2002 cadillac seville sls ? found a brand new ebcm with the same part number just wondering it if would work on my cadillac..when i called the dealer they stated thats the wrong part number as they no longer carry the same one... please advise