Hi all, I am new to this site so please bear with me. I have a 2002 Cadillac DTS and I need to have my front shock/struts replaced. I believe the rears need to be replaced also, but Im going to do the fronts first. The car has close to 90,000 miles and I am almost positive its the original parts. I have already had to get 2 new rims due to the bad suspension. I know a mechanic that is willing to do the work for me. He is going to do it at his home and told me all I need to do is provide the parts. Thats where I am running into a problem. I am searching online to find the replacement front shocks/struts, and I not seeing what I need. Anyone have any ideas where I should look online, or somewhere to get the parts? Thanks alot any help is greatly appreciated.
You are facing a repair decision that has to be influenced by the "how long do you intend to drive the vehicle?" question.
If you are willing to pay the price for OEM replacement parts, one supplier I have used is:
2001 N.W. 13th St.
Gainesville, FL 32601
Bill, Marty, Chris (and possibly others)
Have your VIN available and mention that you are asking for web-sales price quotes.
If you are searching for aftermarket (non EOM) replacement parts, I can't provide any guidance.
Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT 4WD
MD Eastern Shore
Re: 2002 Cadillac DTS shocks/struts
Jim, Brasington Cadillac/Saab has closed their dealership and merged with Palm Chevrolet in Gainesville. All else remains about the same except the address.
My stepdaughter lives in Gainesville....was there for Christmas......stopped by Palm. A black loaded STS nose to nose with a black loaded Corvette on the showroom floor. Nice guys in parts. They do a huge CF business.
I really am just trying to avoid the aftermarket struts, as I do not want to get rid of the "air ride". Most of what I have seen online are struts that all bypass the air ride struts. So would this still be the place I should contact?? I went to my local auto parts store and they had some they would have to order for around $450 each. I looked at the picture that went along with them and everything was there wasnt a spring on them. The guy told me that the springs werent called for?? Also, from reading threads on here I believe a bearing is going bad for the air compressor. When I start my car for the first minute or so you can hear a little whining noise that goes away once it runs for a minute. Could this be the problem to my suspension rather than the struts?? The car rides really good, just when a pothole or railroad track is hit, you can feel the front tires doing some bouncing. Thanks
Fact: keep in mind there are two components to the system, the ride control (electronic), and the load-level control (air, and only on the rear).
Opinion: keeping the electronic ride control is nice, it allows the car to adjust to a variety of driving conditions and stay "just right", however going passive is not going to instantly turn your cadillac ride into a chevy, cadillac used 'passive" struts for years. Keeping your rear air is a whole nother story, lose that and you bought a chevy. If you swap the shocks alone your back end will sag and wallow anytime you are carying more then ~250lbs between the back seat and the trunk. To avoid the sag and wallow you have to change the springs as well, and at that point.....well it wont be a caddy when your done. When I suggest passive I mean without electronics.....I would suggest trading you car in on a caprice before giving up the air.
Food for thought: The DTS has the firmer suspension package, and a big part of the equation is going to come down to cost....its not unheard to to pay the upwards of $700/corner to keep the oem stuff, on my 93 seville I was looking at close to $1200/corner, I wanted something a little firmer, but still comfortable, and the arnott passive fit the bill fine at about $450 for the whole car have not regretted it in the last 70k miles.
Side Note: Is the tire bounce accomponied with a bobbling noise? this could be a bad or loose strut mount (which should be replace with the shocks anyway, but I have seen loose/bad ones and the shocks be fine). Also, It is normal for the pump to cycle when the car is started I would not be too concerned about that. If it runs for more than 2 or 3 mins you have an air leak, and the pump will burn itself up.
Again, OEM is nice, but it can get really freaking expensive, and losing it will not necessarily make you hate your car
Im completely torn on what I should do. I can find replacements that still will allow me to have my electronically adjustable suspension. At my local auto parts so for $450 a piece, $900 for both from struts. Also Monroe has a replacement strut for around $375 a piece and they also say I will still have my electronically adjustable suspension. I still owe money on my car and plan on having it for a long long time(at least I hope so). So although I dont wanna pay all this cash for the struts, I would much rather stay with what my car is supposed to have. This leads me to one question I still have. On my car now the struts also have springs around them, but all the new ones do not. Why?? Dont I need the springs?? I am so confused. It will not let me post a link to show you guys but search for Monroe struts and it comes up.
This looks like what my car has but it also has a spring which goes on the top half of the strut(sorry I know a little about cars but dont know anything about Caddies) WHY DONT ANY OF THEM HAVE THE SPRING OR EVEN OFFER THEM????
Ive looked at the Arnott replacements online and my god I would love to only spend $350 for both but it just doesnt seem right. I read a lot of things that say people continue to get error messages from their computers even with the bypass's Arnott offers. Currently I get no messages from my computer. Loosing a little bit of the ride comfort really wouldnt bother me I just dont want to run into more problems by switching them out.
Please Please help me out making this decision. I really like my DTS and i just want it FIXED!!
PS Im not sure what you mean by boggling noise, the front end makes no noise when hitting bumps you can just feel the tires bottoming out on large bumps. The front right for sure. If the road didnt have bumps my god she just floats across the road
Thanks to anyone who can help me out, I cant say how much I appreciate it
Not to discount the value of money (and I will admit I am biased as I have been a very satisfied customer)...If you go the arnott route, and are not happy you can either call it a lost bet at $350, or live with it for a year or two and then swap back. The latter was my intent, however after one week of having them in the car I was happy enough to not even consider going back. It also influenced my decision to use them for replacments in my other cars.
As far as the sensors and bypass, call their tech support - this was a big part of what influenced my decission, both pre and post sale they took they time to make sure I was happy and that all was working right.
Well my caddy has been sitting in the garage up until this point. I am now ready to do the front struts and was wondering if anyone could give me a little help on deciding where and what route to go. I would like to keep the electronic struts and was wondering if anyone knew a good cheap place to get these struts. If anyone has replaced their struts with passive struts, how much of a difference was the ride? Would you recommend others going the passive route? Also where and what brand did you buy. Please reply...any input is appreciated. Im looking to keep my caddy for a while and want to make sure I do this job the right way. Thanks
Automobile(s): 2001 Seville STS, 1990 Seville (RIP), 1972 Sedan Deville
East Boston MA.
With 4.7K ohm resistors.
You can do it one of two ways:
The quick way - Unplug the connector from the strut, bend the resistor into a u shape, plug it into the connector on the car, and secure/waterproof it (like sticking a staple into a wall outlet).
Or the better (IMHO) way - Cut the harness off of the strut, connect one end of the resistor to each of the 2 wires (basically making a loop) with butt connectors or solder, and use heat shrink tubing to weatherproof. Then just plug your "loop" back in.
A 5 pack of resistors is $1.19 at RadioShack. You'll need 4.
MoistCabbage, I have been searching all over trying to find some instructions on how to do this. I've already had my air ride system on my 2002 Cadillac Seville STS converted to standard struts (Monroe, I believe) about a year or so ago. I'd really like to be able to get rid of the "Service Suspension System" warning message that pops up every time I start the car. I've read several places about using the 4.7k ohm resistors, but no directions as to how to do it (in laymans terms, as I'm not very savvy when it comes to automotive work). Are you aware of any photos or videos that show someone like me how to do this? I'm not sure what the wiring or connectors look like, or what I'll need (other than the resistors) if my old suspension parts (and whatever wiring or connectors they would have had) are already gone.
Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT 4WD
MD Eastern Shore
Re: 2002 DTS shocks/struts
Post #11. Just like sticking a bent paper clip into a wall socket. Insulate/waterproof well.
You do NOT/ did not have "air ride". Your car has ELC, a level control system to compensate for extra weight in the trunk or rear seat. The car uses active MacPherson front struts and active rear shock absorbers with a level control air bladder operated by a level control compressor, control head and rear height sensors.
If your 2002 STS is a F55 (Magnetic Ride Control) car you have even more resistor/electrical hoops to jump through. What is the build date of your car (driver's door sticker) and is there a F55 code on the RPO sticker (under the spare tire cover) ?
F55 = Magnetic Ride Control with FE3 Sport Suspensioin tuning.
F45 = CVRSS (Constantly Variable Road Sensing Suspension) with FE3 Sport Suspension tuning.