I put new rotors and brakes on my 02 Seville in Jan (Raybestos) which made it about 10K miles before warping and needing to be replaced. I just installed a new set of Delco Rotors and Pads in the rear about 2K ago and on deceleration down a hill I am feeling it in the seat. Could something be wrong with the car?
So in January you put all new all round ? Is that correct ???
Then after 10 K (before warpinmg you say)...
You installed rotors and pads in the rear......(about 2k ago) ?????
your spending too much money on brakes and not enough on proper tire inflation. Why you change them soo often ?
Im guessing your brakes are good. Maybe your not giving enough time for them to settle in. Or maybe your expecting and pushing too much for what you think is normal.
Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT 4WD
MD Eastern Shore
Re: Eating Up Rotors
There's something else going on here: even a standard set of OEM rotors runs just short of red hot (yes, red hot) in autocross. Designed that way. Racing rotors/pads actually shed sparks on a road course. That's why most passenger cars have ventilated front rotors......to shed heat in town.
Yaemish, did you screw the rear caliper pucks back in during the brake job ?? Try a half dozen very aggressive stops from 80. That will bed the pads. You'll notice the last 3 stops in that series are not as abrupt: brake fade. Just make sure you drive 4 or 5 miles afterward to cool things down........
DID YOU REPLACE THE FRONT ROTORS AFTER REPLACING REAR ROTORS?
If you ONLY replaced rears DO NOT re-bed the brakes, you can warp the fronts and then you're going to be replacing fronts as well. I know because this EXACT thing happened to me with OEM rotors & pads. I had a shimmy due to a partially siezed rear caliper, after rebuilding and replacing rear rotors and pads I re-beded the brakes and took a chunk out of one of the front rotors. I replaced them all with aftermarket NON-OEM rotors and pads for a fraction of the price and have had no problems for 20k miles with barely any rotor wear with superior stopping. I think I paid $250 for all 4 rotors and all 4 sets of pads
As for your next question I went with R1-Concepts slotted and X-drilled (I tend to be aggressive and take this car to Road Atlanta once a year) with Axxis Metal Master Semi-Metalics. I would recommend Ceramics from Hawk if you want the best performance hot, but for DD and low dusting nothing beats Semi-Metalic IMO and Axxis is better than Raybestos or ACDelco IMO. Also, right now on Rockauto Raybestos or ACDelco rotors each cost $100 or more for fronts, a bit less for rears, so you're talking about a $400+ job for all 4 corners or alot less if you go aftermarket...
I had a shimmy due to a partially siezed rear caliper, .
I had that one time to.
It took a long long time before some one told me why.
It was after the emergency brake cable seized for me. Then a guy in a small shop (not A dealer) found out that one of the calipers in the back was a little bit siezed too.
I also had one time that the people that sold me my pads and rotors were scammers.
What happened was they convinced me on hard pads that last long but didnt convince me on rotors to match.
I found out later that the kind of quality of pads and rotors should be the same.
I bought a set of front and rear rotors from Ebay. I'm using Hawk pads. I think that the pads where too agressive for the rotors and worped them. It made so much noise(plus chatter etc.) that I thought it was bad hubs. I was toying with the idea to change to slotted and holed rotors of decent quality. But I'm going with Autozone gold series rotors and matched duralast pads this time. I got the rear rotors turned with plenty left but for some reason the fronts would not take a cut with in spects. Must have been them cheap ebay rotors for less..LOL. Buyer beware. If the fronts work out then I'll change the rears also. I do like the hawk Pads a lot.