Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

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Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question. in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; I know it's been asked over and over, but I'll ask it anyways. What is the best rotor/pad combo for ...
  1. #1
    HP480 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): '05 DeVille
    Join Date
    Feb 2008

    Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    I know it's been asked over and over, but I'll ask it anyways.

    What is the best rotor/pad combo for my '05 base Deville. Car is stock, with 101K. Brand new Michelin Primacy's on OEM rims.
    I drive 75 highway miles a day. 70mph to 30mph all the time, occasionally 70 to ZERO.

    Frozen Rotors has some nice cryo'ed rotors, slotted and blank ones, not sure if they're plated for rust (I'm in New England). Don't know what the warranty is, calling them tomorrow. >$$<

    BAER has the DecelaRotor, comes with a 3 year warranty against warping, if used with their pads. Looks like plating is optional >$$$<

    AutoZone has the DuraLast line, blank rotors with 2 year warranty against warping. No plating. >$<

    Does cryo help prevent rust? I've read mixed opinions on this.
    Is cryo worth the money?

    Are there any other options I'm missing?

    What do you know? What have you learned? What can you teach me?

    Thank you all for your previous advice/help/assistance.

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  3. #2
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS, 2004 F150 SuperCab 4x4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    MD Eastern Shore

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    For normal automobile use, "cryogenically frozen" is a new buzzword that ranks alongside "Turbo", "Billet", "Cold Air Intake" and "Awesome" for hype and snake oil.

    Try www.ebcbrakes.com or www.autopartswarehouse.com and drill down to your car. EBC makes a pretty comprehensive line of rotors and pads for a LOT of vehicles/types. A set of their dimpled/slotted black coated rotors and RedStuff pads should be far more than you need.

    In pads and rotors, you get what you pay for.

  4. #3
    krimson_cardnal's Avatar
    krimson_cardnal is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
    Automobile(s): 96DeVille
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    NY Capitol District

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    Stick with Raybestos CLICK or AC-Delco.

    You'll find plenty of choices, but the OEM set up is meant to do the job. I would stick w/ solid rotors and go with ceramic pads. I agree w/ Sub on the new trick terms. The rest is eye candy giving you bragging rights, but if that's what your after... K_C

  5. #4
    danbuc's Avatar
    danbuc is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): '87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Mahwah, NJ

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    There is no brake combination that will give much more than a few thousand miles more use over stock when driving the car hard. There is simply too much front weight bias, and too little surface area. Your best bet are a basic set of rotors, I just through some AC Delcos on the front of my Seville the other day along with some Reybestos Ceramic pads. Nothing crazy, I know I'll burn through them in less than 30k so why waste the money.

    Cross drilled, Slotted, they all get eating up just as bad as stock.

  6. #5
    ronbo is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Independence, MO

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    Deep-cryo works.

    Bought a full set of drilled/slotted rotors, Hawk ceramic pads, had it ALL (pads too!) cryo treated myself, locally, from a company who does a lot of metallurgy research for large corporations, as well as treatment services for the public, city/state governments (police vehicles), and other companies... many taxi companies do their fleets.

    Braking is much, MUCH more consistent, the fading I used to experience was GONE... the repeated warping after 12-18 months on new rotors was GONE. No cracking at cross-drilled holes (holes were chamfered to begin with)

    Treating the pads is essential while you're at it... gives them a much longer life, in spite of the extra wear from the slots/holes.

    Yes, you CAN get decent D/S rotors on eBay, find the ones that are double-ground on both surfaces, this insures the rotors are really flat... then get the best warranty... at least 6-12 months. Plating (anodizing, whether clear or gold) is useful, even though it won't penetrate deep inside the vanes. Some forms of plating work better than others.

    You can NOT cryo-treat used rotors though... only when fresh.

    I talked with the engineer there for a while, he explained it all and showed me the cross-sectioned metal samples... it's amazing what actually transpires at the molecular level when you take these castings to -300 degrees for several hours. The molecules actually DO move in the process, and align themselves, making for a much better material. Typically the life expectancy can increase 200-400%, under direct one-on-one comparisons... same vehicle, same time.

    To complete the treatment, they must also take them UP to +300 degrees or more for a "soak" after they deep-freeze them.

    It's a VERY slow, gradual process... each transition must be at a very controlled rate, lest you cause stress on the material.

    Read about it... you should know what you're talking about before you say it's "hype".

    Total cost was much less than the parts cost, and get well over twice the life... easy decision.

    My only concern was buying "pre-treated" parts... there is NO way to tell if they really were treated, or treated properly. Have it done yourself, do research, find a reputable shop. Many will ship it off to a large treatment company, like the one I used... they do many parts for other resellers.

    It's a very interesting science to read about... many military parts get deep-cryo-treated.

  7. #6
    ronbo is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Independence, MO

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    (Correction to above... found my receipts... Pads are Performance Friction "Carbon Metallic Z-rated" pads. Good street compromise... fine when cold, but "WOW" when warmed up... and ZERO fade when HOT, very low brake dust)

  8. #7
    timothyr's Avatar
    timothyr is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): 78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
    Join Date
    Mar 2004

    Re: Drilled, Slotted, Both, Cryo, plated, that is the question.

    the real question is how did you feel about the stock braking performance?
    as dan said nothing is going to extend the life by much, but overall performance can be improved.

    short of serious modifications (tires, suspension, calipers and rotors) you will not reduce your stopping distance by much either for the occaisional full force 70-0 stop.

    where PROPERLY cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will start to make a difference for the repeated heavy and aggressive braking.
    As far as the pads keep in mind, they need to be matched to your driving style...."track" pads are designed to run hot, and suck when cold...and "stock" pads will not stand up to the heat of aggressive use.

    In as much as this gets beaten to death, there is no "one size fits all", on my seville I have a very aggressive setup, and I regularly drive the piss out of it and the stock system just couldn't handle it, on my deville it is bone stock and I have no need to change it, it does the job very nicley - both cars serve different purposes, one is my by myself toy and errand runner, the other is more of the family hauler and daily driver.

    As far as cryo....99% of whats on the market is snake oil, the 1% as ronbo pointed out can provide a true benefit however, honestly, it would be a benefit not seen in this application. For the sake of providing a reality check, I believe your deville should have a limiter at 112 mph, however, removed the car should be able to cross the upwards of 140...do you need to remove the limiter? how often do you have the "speed limited to 112" come up on your DIC? Again in my case, the seville no limiter, an the car has seen 150 mph multiple times, on the deville it very rarely sees 90...i could remove it but what would really be gained. My point simply is that for some mods you need alot more to see their actual benefits in a real world situation.....REAL cryo is one of them

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