rear brake caliper pins

[iametarq]

I am plagued with brake "problems"

I put ceramic pads & new rotors on the rear, last fall, I think.

Now when braking at high speeds the whole car shakes like crazy.

It's not felt in the steering wheel or brake pedal...which makes me think it's the rears causing the shakes.

Every time I take of off the rear brakes the caliper pins are always dry. They have some rust on them, which I always clean off with some steel wool. Aren't they always supposed to be greased with caliper pin grease? I always put it on, am I not putting enough on? I feel like it's running out somehow, and I can't figure it out.

My other theory is that the parking brake is not releasing, and will probably just disconnect the cable and stop using it to remove that variable from the equation.

I've always done my brakes on both our vehicles for as long as I've learned how.

- I always use new rotors & pads
- I always use anti squeal compound on the backs of the pads
- I always clean off the calipers where the old anti-squeal compound was.
- Make sure the hub surface is clean
- re-apply high temp caliper grease to caliper pins.
- Torque lug nuts to 100 ft lbs.

If the pads have worn at an angle instead of flat I am guessing the warranty won't cover that. but i'm going to look for my receipts when I get home and call the store I bought them from.

Any tips would be helpful. Thanks!

[krimson_cardnal]

Check rear suspension knuckles for excessive play. If ebrake is working and releasing properly you can apply that with left foot at speed to isolate effect to rear only. K_C

[submariner409]

...........also, to prove the emergency brake system is functioning, while driving at 30 or so, press down on the emergency brake pedal: you should feel a "thunk" as the system overrides the pedal command and trips it. The pedal should not stay depressed unless in P (never tried N.......).

[iametarq]

I think I tried the E brake once while in drive and the car chimed at me angrily and I think I let back...I'll try again and post back the results...but what about the caliper pins...Should they come out still lubed?

[krimson_cardnal]

It's been my experience that they often loose the lube. Brake components take a harsh beating. Sounds like you have good practices in place. Pins are dry but not corroded. Best you can do, too much lube can lead to other issues. Proper prep on assembly assures long service, it's those who skip the detail that freeze up the calipers. What sort of response are you getting - the shaking like crazy and chimes angrily? Better description and any associated sounds?? K_C

[iametarq]

K_C -

When I put the E-Brake on while the car is moving it just gives you a warning, but I guess from the guys here it's alright, it's safe to do.

When the car shakes during normal braking there is actually no noises what-so-ever (no squeals, no metal to metal chirps), it just shakes the car and its worse when your braking at higher speeds as in 55-75+ mph. Braking at slow speeds its hardly noticeable. The shaking is in the body of the car, not the steering wheel and/or brake pedal that I have experience before when the front pads were bad or rotors warped, I had the shop replace those 2 years ago because I had to leave town and couldn't do it myself.

[krimson_cardnal]

Ebrake will isolate issue to rear brakes, as long as it releases no problem at all, it's a diagnostic exercise, also a bail out procedure in case of general brake failure. Warped rotors and/or shot rear knuckle bushings can be the culprit. K_C

[iametarq]

I put the E-Brake on while going down a very large hill today with the car in N from 50mph onward down...while in N the E-brake stays applied, which also produced the shakes when it was all the way down. It did hardly anything to slow the car down though

Put back in D and the brake released, but shimmy was still there until about a mile+ down the road...will start by removing the parking brake cable when I get a chance and look at the pads too...

[krimson_cardnal]

ONLY apply the ebrake with the car in drive when diagnosing brake issues. It relies on vacuum and being in gear to be able to release. You locked up the rear brakes. You can test ebrake effectiveness in the driveway by applying the ebrake and while keeping your left foot firmly on it shift into drive. Car should not move. Then gently apply throttle. Car should still not move. Be sure your not facing a wall - garage door - other vehicle - or the dog when doing this.

How's the vehicle tracking at speed? Does the rear end seem to "wander" a bit while going straight? K_C

[submariner409]

I believe his e-brake (or maybe the next year model....) is tripped by an electric solenoid located vertically in the e-brake mechanism. There is a nearly inaccessible yellow tag "override" up in front of that. If you apply the foot pedal in other than N or P the mechanism trips the solenoid and you feel a distinct "thump" in your foot as the override kicks. If you are not an e-brake user it's a good idea to exercise the system every month or so by depressing the pedal until the lock just catches, shift out of P, have it unlock, and then do it again and again, depressing the pedal further each time for a total of 6 - 8 cycles. Keeps things loose.......