Brake Line Leak

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Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, Brake Line Leak in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; I was driving down the road when all of a sudden i went to brake and the brake pedal went ...
  1. #1
    1991SedanDeville is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2004

    Brake Line Leak

    I was driving down the road when all of a sudden i went to brake and the brake pedal went all the way down to the floor. I was able to stop but barely. I got home and had someone take me to get some brake fluid only to find out that i had a serious leak near the rear passenger tire. It was dark out so i went to get a flash light and i got under the car, finding out that the breakline had a serious goudge in it. There was a chunk, about 2 inches, of the rubber around the breakline that was missing. The medal inside of the rubber that was suppose to be there was still there, but was very rusted resulting in the leak.

    What i need help with is how to take that break line off and replace it with a new one. Anyone know of a website that could help me get instructions on how to get this fixed. I have a 1991 Sedan Deville with ABS. I also have my anti lock break light on, which has been on since I bought the car about 3 months ago? Could this also be a result of my breakline leaking? The ABS light went off twice since buying the car, and they worked but soon after the light would come on, it would go off and stop working once again. So, could the putting a new breakline in solve that problem also?


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  3. #2
    joeveto's Avatar
    joeveto is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Cuyahoga Falls, OH

    Re: Brake Line Leak

    Your brake lines are not hard to replace. They screw off and screw back on, like anything else. Plan on a half hour per wheel. Replace all four, now. Don't wait for the others to go.

    You'll need to be cautious when removing the old lines, because you don't want to strip any of the threads. Because you're removing the lines, you may want to go ahead and cut them. This will make removing the lines easier.

    A few cautions:

    Before you start the job, find a golf tee or two. You'll use these to plug the lines. Watch your master cylinder. You do not want this to go below the low fill line. If this happens, you'll need to remove your master cylinder and bench bleed it, to remove the air. This is not complicated, but it is more work. And honestly, if this has happened, unless you know the MC is new, get rid of it and install another. They're cheap. You'll have to bench bleed the new one as well. There are instructions in the box the MC comes in.

    Also, brake fluid is corrosive as hell, and it will eat through your paint, if allowed to sit. So watch, and make sure none spills or splashes on your paint.

    Complete one wheel at a time, starting with the right rear. Pull the old line, install a new one. You don't need to torque the crap out of the lines. Don't strip them. Once you have the line replaced, bleed that caliper. Bleed the brakes until clean, clear fluid comes out. This is the time to flush your system. Use DOT 3 fluid. Don't waste your time with silicon. If you need help on this, go to my webpage. The instructions are for a C3 Corvette, but the process is the same. My method allows for a one man brake job, with no special tools required (just clear plastic hose to fit over the bleeder).

    Once done with the right rear, move to the left rear, then right front, left front. Finish by topping off the master cylinder.

    While you have your wheels off, take a look at your pads. If they are marginal, replace them. I suggest the carbon ceramics from AutoZone. They come with a lifetime warranty and won't make your wheels dirty. The cheap ones squeak and lay dust everywhere.

    Yes, the ABS light was most likely caused by the low fluid.

    If you have questions, you can e-mail me. Though it may take a day or two to get back with you. I don't check my personal e-mail as often as I should.

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