Suspension, Brakes and Tires Discussion, Time for a brake job in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; The brakes in my 94 Deville just arnt what they used to be. Its starting to shudder slighty when braking.
The brakes in my 94 Deville just arnt what they used to be. Its starting to shudder slighty when braking.
I went to autozone and picked up a new set of pads for the front. I still have to get the car on jack stands, then have the rotors turned or replaced.
I went to the library and read a chiltons manual. It said that I should take out about half of the fluid out of the master. Is that so the fluid doesnt go all over the place when Im replacing the pads?
IVe done brakes a few times on other cars and i dont remember having to remove half of the fluid out of the master. I just had to pull the cover off of the master.
Automobile(s): 1968 Cadillac Sedan deVille, 1994 Chevrolet G20
Bucks County, PA
Re: Time for a brake job
It's so the fluid won't spill when you press the piston back into the caliper. I would take a different approach. Open the bleeder when you press the piston back, to avoid pushing debris through the system. Then you can just top off the master cylinder.
If the brakes are shuddering, it's not just the pads. Your rotors are out of whack as well. They probably just need to be turned. But they may need to be replaced, as well. Sometimes, rotors are cheap enough, that replacement is the way to go. I also suggest carbon ceramic pads, from AutoZone. They have a lifetime guarantee, they don't squeak, and they don't put dust everywhere.
While you're in there, change out that dirty old brake fluid for new. You're opening the bleeder to push the piston back in. This will introduce air you'll have to bleed out, anyway. You may as well change out all the fluid. You WILL feel a difference.
If you need help with the bleeding, check out my webpage. I have a section on one man brake bleeding that will help. The job is done on a C3 Corvette, but the process applies to all cars.
I'm not sure how rotor quality varies amongst different suppliers. I typically look at two items: cost and warranty. If they come with a lifetime warranty, I buy them. They are so easy to replace, why not? On the other hand, I've had experience with cheap rotors (I'm thinking about the factory rotors on my 99 Malibu) and they aren't worth the hassle. The only way to truly know, is to take the plunge and buy a set.
You also need to be realistic about your driving habits. If you are tough on your stuff, you'll probably be better off going with the more expensive units. I'm making the assumption, that you do get what you pay for, and the more expensive units will be made better, and won't warp as easily. On the other hand, if you're like me, drive gently, don't ride your brakes or accelerate hard only to slam on your brakes at every red light (those drivers make no sense to me), go with the cheaper rotors. They should do well by you.