Here are a whole bunch of options. I was asked on another forum to do some ground work and play with some numbers and hp and what not with options out there. Of course there are more options and items to do different. I'm all for adding more data to this if you have things to add PM me so I can add it to the list and keep it all clean and stuff.
Hope this all helps everyone out there realize what's there, what can be done, and some general prices.
Enjoy!!
Dom
Disclaimer!!!
I’m just doing this for everyone’s knowledge. I DO NOT own a shop, have relatives in a shop or have any alliance to a shop. This is all research I did on my own by either calling shops, dealers, emailing them or looking on the internet. I can not be held accountable for errors, price increase or decrease. The prices were correct as of today, Sept 1, 2010. Also I’m sure you can tell where some of the info is from or where I got it, please do not call out names of shops or anything, they are all out to build fast cars and provide a living for themselves, their families, and their employee’s. We all know mail order is going to be cheaper since they don’t have the overhead, so don’t talk about it or bring it up. I don’t want the Mods to have to do extra work to keep this on topic. If you feel I have made an error, PM me and I’ll look into it and fix it if necessary or explain what I used.
Thanks, have fun and keep the rubber side down!!!
So let me lay some ground work here:
Used 450 rwhp for the formulas where needed.
All gains are what is said through an Auto, it’s what I have so it’s what I care about. We know you with sticks will get better.
Prices could vary as some I have found very good deals, others I have not, you can do the math if you find it cheaper.
I know dyno’s vary, so take the hp for what its worth.
I indicated if I used the shops estimates, a person’s results, or anything different
Labor is specific to each shop, they are hidden to protect them, if you can find labor for a cheaper price AWESOME!
Dyno’s and Tunes are also from 1 or 2 shops. I didn’t call every shop and ask their prices, again you can do the math and fix it.
So bring on the suggestions, comments or questions. I think this could be a lot of fun!
For those interested: Based on what I've seen, a 9" lower with the 2.55" upper is about the max that I'd consider going with and even then you're still spinning the blower past the point of efficiency. A 9.5" lower with a 2.55" upper? That's insane to me...no way does the blower keep up at high RPMs
I had my car car transported to Jesse this weekend for Cam, ported blower, ported snout + TB, heat exchanger, fuel injectors, and (possible) swap to 10" ring from my current 9.5". I am spending $600 for porting my blower + snout + tb, cam will cost $380 and $600 to install, heat exchanger is $360, and $380 for fuel injectors. I think I'm getting a great deal from wait4me so I decided to transport my car there to have the work done.. We're targeting 620-630rwhp with the 10" ring and 600-610rwhp with the current 9.5" lower.
i had my car car transported to jesse this weekend for cam, ported blower, ported snout + tb, heat exchanger, fuel injectors, and (possible) swap to 10" ring from my current 9.5". I am spending $600 for porting my blower + snout + tb, cam will cost $380 and $600 to install, heat exchanger is $360, and $380 for fuel injectors. I think i'm getting a great deal from wait4me so i decided to transport my car there to have the work done.. We're targeting 620-630rwhp with the 10" ring and 600-610rwhp with the current 9.5" lower.
Who has the best mail out kit option if I'm looking to get around 600 rwhp ? I just bough my v coupe last week and i am looking to get the best bang for my buck.
I was looking at replacing the top and bottom pulleys to start with and getting a tune and seeing where things end up there. This winter i would like to build my motor and go all out on this car and make it a beast.
Nice choice. Will need to add other things or u will be starving your engine. Also will not be optimized. When adding upper n lower certain engines like certain combos. Just need to experiment on the dyno.
u have to tune with any lower pulley. Really depending on your CAI you choose you will also need a tune, and you for sure will with injectors. Car prob won't even start with bigger injectors.
Hey everyone,i live in Cali.im looking for HP up grade but dont want to void the factory warranty.How far can i go to get the most hp also what performance shop is the best
You'll be safe with anything that doesn't require a tune. Intake and exhaust, but exhaust is mainly for sound. It won't net you much gain for the $$$ you'll spend.
Best to have a goal in mind. 500 rwhp? 600 rwhp? 1000 rwhp? There are proven combos out there and it's best to match parts with your specific goals. For example, you may not need a fully built LSX bottom end. Could it get you to a set hp goal? Yes, but it may not be the best use of your funds.
What do you guys recommend to gain the highest boost.. I thought id go with a 10 lower, cai, tune, and some fuel injectors.. I dont want to change the sound of the car but i do love some more supercharger whine
If I wanted to do warranty compliant (or rather "tolerant") bolt-ons, what can I get away with so the car will still "run" when I flash back to the factory map? For now, ideally I'd like to do: Chip+Tune \ CAI \ Headers + High Flow Cats \ Rear exhaust \ Injectors \ Pulley(s) \ Blower porting + intercooler (in that order).
But from what I am reading I'd have to stay somewhat conservative with the injectors. The guys at my dealership said that GM can get a little sticky on Headers and Cats, and that its better to modify the back half of the exhaust system if you are going to change anything. I am also looking at feasibility of a Z06 or LS9 clutch assembly, to reduce rotating weight.
If you go that route, you need to expect to kiss your warranty goodbye. If you really want a warranty "compliant" bolt-on, you're probably limited to CAI and cat-back exhaust.
We just recently installed a corsa axle back and an airaid cai on one of our demos and it helped quite a bit. Not sure what the numbers are, but you definetly tell a big difference in the seat of your pants!
556hp is at the crank. By the time the power gets to the rear wheels, a good chunk is loss in the drivetrain--resulting in ~450rwhp. rwhp = rear wheel horsepower.
Great info. I guess I'm in the same boat. 2 paths:
A. 2.5 with factory lower: about 18% increase in boost, no additional mods required
B. 2.4 with factory lower: 23% boost no mods required
C. Factory upper with 9.5 lower: 21% boost needs 50mm idler.
With these options, my questions are:
1. How much HP to the wheels does the increase in boost generate?
2. Does RWHP care where the additional boost comes from?
3. My supercharger doesn't rattle at idle or sound like marbles, but when I'm really getting into in, faint rattle (almost like under octaned) but it's never seen anything but 93 since I've owned it.
4. Would the upper swap with the solid isolator cure that rattle?
Thanks guys, love the car and the forum.
Sid
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