Let there be studs......
Let there be studs......
The rear bank of studs are installed at 4" above the surface with thread locker. They'll need a tweak.
Have to set the front.......
What is in upper right corner of pic? Can't see clearly. Looks like Honda motor?
My iPad crops the pics. I used my computer to look at pic and it is much larger.
Front studs have been thread locked.
I have to tweak a couple to get the gasket and the heads on. I've got to get in the groove with this thing. Yet, have to pay some bills.
I used a little plastic mini square (3") that came with my compound miter saw to check for squareness with the deck. I also used wooden foot ruler to check for proper exposure of stud above deck.
I then had a handle that came with a small hydraulic jack that was big enough to fit over the stud to tweak it in the direction needed. I put an old shirt over the stud to help protect the threads then applied pressure. Don't beat on it, just push.
we all know studs are straight. does that mean you are drilling and tapping the holes at an angle? not that it makes any difference when heads are on
I can only say that now that the studs are in and the drilling complete, the ones that need tweaking must be slightly off since drilling by hand WITHOUT a guide componet/device. I call this human error.
Yes, the studs are supposed to be straight also, but nothing in life is perfect. A slight tweak here and there won't be bad.
I believe the whole objective is to Prevent Stripping of the threads and holes... That's what causes the separation of the blocks in the first place, right?
So if u drilled at an angle, u essentially created the very problem u were trying to fix
But I not exactly sure if that is the case with studs
Would like to know more on this so please keep up the updates
Last edited by Submariner409; 06-11-13 at 08:41 AM.
SUPER_LAC, The studs are threaded into the block and, once in, they are not turned (like, tightened) ever again. The fine threads and upper nuts do the torquing - not the lower threads; they aren't even tightened into the block - finger tight with thread locker. IF a stud hole is drilled and threaded a few thousandths of an inch off the stud then needs to be tweaked in the correct direction to get it perfectly perpendicular to the deck face. A stud can be "bent" (that's a scary term, here) a tiny bit to allow the head to smoothly drop over all 10.......... but if you had to bend the stud enough that you could see the angle at the lower thread area, then you have problems - big problems.
To further bend your mind, consider that original head bolts do not go all the way to the bottom of the block hole/threads - the only thing that holds those bolts in is the torque applied to clamp the head to the block - the bolts don't even come close to bottoming in the holes.
You lay stud on flat table and roll them. They don't look like a banana? Do they?
A 12" x 3/4 pipe and a few pushes in different directions later, the headgaskets slid over the studs.
Now, it's getting the heads on.......